Clutch draggin when hot

[tex1507]

Hi All,

I have just recently changed my friction plates, steel plates, springs and pressure plate on my clutch.
Before that I changed the clutch cable, however when the clutch get hot, normally half way during my ride home from work,
it starts to drag and becomes almost impossible to get neutral.

In the morning it is fine until just round the corner from work.

I am now pulling what little hair I have left out as I have now run out of ideas as to what could be causing this.

and yes I left the friction plates to soak overnight and have check the cable tension and all is fine.

Could an oil change fix the issue or is it something else I have missed?

I did a search in the forum and came across a post with exactly the same issues but there was no solution as it seems that it sorted it self out.

Cheers

Stu

[Carter]

Just a thought but did you check the adjustment at the engine end of the cable ?
Could there be too much free play at the locknut and adjuster screw that live under the rubber bung on the sprocket cover ?

[tex1507]

nope I adjusted that when I changed the plates.

[BBROWN1664]

Check the oil level isn't too high either. Too much oil causes drag as more of the plates are submerged.

[tex1507]

Ok so just been down to car park and checked the oil level in the sight window and it is up around or slightly over the top dot so need to let some oil out, not sure how this has happened as I check it regular and the only time I would have put oil in would be when it is down by the bottom mark and never up to where it is now.

[misterjayb1]

Ok so just been down to car park and checked the oil level in the sight window and it is up around or slightly over the top dot so need to let some oil out, not sure how this has happened as I check it regular and the only time I would have put oil in would be when it is down by the bottom mark and never up to where it is now.

Is the bike definitely level?.. Buddy of mine was scratching his head over oil levels til I placed a spirit level across his fuel tank filler cap. Can make the world of difference to readings, as can checking levels first thing in a morning..

[darrsi]

Ok so just been down to car park and checked the oil level in the sight window and it is up around or slightly over the top dot so need to let some oil out, not sure how this has happened as I check it regular and the only time I would have put oil in would be when it is down by the bottom mark and never up to where it is now.

You need to start the engine for 30-60 seconds then let the oil settle for the correct level.
If you can see the top of the oil level, but didn't start the engine first then it may actually have too little in there.

[His Dudeness]

Are you sure the clutch isn't slipping and over heating from that? You can have the correct amount of free play in the cable and it still be out

[flakey]

have you thought that the oil itself might be shaggged, oil gets hot and gets thinner-if its old it might not be lubricating like the bike was designed for.
£28.50 for oil and filter-decent brand name, maybe time for a oil change, although a pig to get the oil filter off without the right tools

[tex1507]

Oil was changed about 3months ago so still got another couple of thousand miles to go and it was silkolene I got from my local bike shop. So should still be ok saying that I have just let about 100ml out and it the level is now mid way up the sight glass so see how that goes tomorrow.

[tex1507]

Sodding failed...... drained some oil out last night and this morning it seemed to have worked.....same route home half way home got off the m42 by NEC and island was rammed.
I ended up kangarooing round as the clutch would not disengage and kept stalling bike, once I got moving again off the island it seemed to settle down a little bit was still difficult to Change gear or get neutral..... So I suppose that all I am left with is an oil change see if that will sort it as I am now out of ideas.

[Fazerider]

I can't see any way this could be oil related. The only time I had the clutch drag was when I failed to tighten up the sprocket cover properly, it worked loose over 30 miles or so until I couldn't get the bike into neutral.
It might be possible to have the fault come and go with temperature by setting the adjustment right on the edge of working when cold… but really it sounds like an assembly error of some sort. I'd have the clutch back out and triple-check everything is by the book.

[tex1507]

I have on several times, what I have are ebc heavy duty friction plates in because of the milage I do, how ever what I noticed where all the friction plates were black in stead of just two of them as per the Haynes manual.

[unfazed]

Remove the EBC springs and replace with OEM ones.
I have seen them cause the issues you are describing on more than one bike

[tex1507]

Can anyone recommend where to get them from just checked wemoto and the only list the ones i already have.

[darrsi]

AJ Sutton online

[unfazed]

I have found Fowlers in Bristol reasonable for OEM parts.

I have found EBC clutches to be a very hit and miss affair, quite a number I have fitted were problematic, including ones I fitted to my own 600, after two problematic ones, (returned the first one toeEBC) I tossed the replacement d went OEM, expensive, but no issues since.
I have fitted some EBC ones without issue to the fazers

[tex1507]

do you mean the pressure plate springs? or the friction plates?

[unfazed]

The springs in particular as the heavy springs can cause problems with the sprocket cover mechanism

Ensure the sprocket cover adjustment is done correctly

Screw in the cable adjuster full at the lever end.
Remove the rubber bung on the sprocket cover
Loosen the lock nut with a deep spanner ( it will loosen with a crack and frighten the crap out of you)
Turn the lock nut anti clockwise a full turn
Hold you fingers lightly on the clutch lever
Turn the centre screw clockwise with a good fitting flat screwdriver
You will feel the lever moving out
Keep turning the screw until the lever is about 5 to 6mm from the lever housing.
Tighten the locknut.
Replace the rubber bung
Take the final adjustments at the cable adjuster
Read this post also http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,10124.msg105622.html#msg105622

You may have to resort as I did and replace the friction plates with OEM also, they are expensive but never had any issues afterwards

[tex1507]

The springs in particular as the heavy springs can cause problems with the sprocket cover mechanism

Ensure the sprocket cover adjustment is done correctly

Screw in the cable adjuster full at the lever end.
Remove the rubber bung on the sprocket cover
Loosen the lock nut with a deep spanner ( it will loosen with a crack and frighten the crap out of you)
Turn the lock nut anti clockwise a full turn
Hold you fingers lightly on the clutch lever
Turn the centre screw clockwise with a good fitting flat screwdriver
You will feel the lever moving out
Keep turning the screw until the lever is about 5 to 6mm from the lever housing.
Tighten the locknut.
Replace the rubber bung
Take the final adjustments at the cable adjuster
Read this post also http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,10124.msg105622.html#msg105622

You may have to resort as I did and replace the friction plates with OEM also, they are expensive but never had any issues afterwards

All Sorted, as a temp solution I have put my old springs back in while waiting for new springs from Yamaha.
all issues with the clutch dragging have now disappeared and this is still with the EBC friction plates so am now finally
happy with bike again and not about to launch it onto the scrap pile. 

Cheers all for your Help and advice.

Stu

[Jules-C]

Good you got it sorted

[flakey]

hi tex1507, glad your clutch problems are all sorted, would you consider selling me your old genuine clutch springs please?