Any Plumbers in the house?

[Tmation]

I am after some advice from a proper plumber, not a DIYer like me.


I have a leaking radiator in a bathroom that I am going to replace with a towel rail radiator.


My question is can I use two flexible hoses (as used for taps) instead of using 15mm compression joints and coper pipe to connect the radiator to the valves just above the floor.


I want to do this as I will be re doing the bathroom next year so want it as a temporary fix (and to speed the job up)

[Frosties]

No issues with flexi as far as I know....done my shower and towel rail this way - but i'm no plumber.

[fazersharp]

I am a DIYer but done loads and laods and as it appends have just replaced a towel rad yesterday and had to move out by 30mm it as have just tiled and so pipes are now too close to wall

NO you should not use flexi on heating -- not sure about any heat issues for one but the bore in the flexi will restrict the flow to the rad which in turn will not heat up as it should
 the other issue you have there is that that rad looks about 900mm wide and towel rads are much narower

[chaz]

Done a lot of plumbing but not a fan of flexi or plastic pipes, had a look and they are OK up to 70c, I'm not sure the max temp on the heating side, if it's a sealed system the pressure would be 3 bar max. they are OK to 15 bar, so if it's only for a few months should be OK but its YOUR risk, lol.
The bore shoud be big enough as its only feeding one towel rail make sure it doesn't kink.

[fazersharp]

if you are doing the rest of the bathroom later then leave it as is and do it all properly with 15mm later

Just re read yor rad is leaking -- but from where as you could fix

[fazersharp]

had a look and they are OK up to 70c, I'm not sure the max temp on the heating side,

Wondering if say the temp of water is 6o would there be a build up of heat at the pipe surface to something over 70

[Tmation]

It is a 700mm wide rad now, leaking on the bottom edge as it seems to have rusted? New towel rail is 600mm wide and inlet/outlet is from underneath not the side like the old rad.


By using the flexi pipes I can connect it all up in minutes as all the fittings match.


My heating pressure is between 2.5 and 3 bar, I suppose the slightly smaller bore of the flexi pipes could restrict flow a little.

[YamFazMan]

Hi

Maybe..... http://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-copper-plumbing-stick-15-x-15-x-300mm/61598?_requestid=349247

ATB YFM

[fazersharp]

But your narrower towel rad will still be from the side as you will also be going inwards by 50mm each side so you get right angled valves which come down from rad and trun 90 to left /right then 50mm pipe then 90 degree elbow on existing pipe.http://www.screwfix.com/p/chrome-angle-radiator-valve-15mm-pair/94103
these valves you can use ant which way you need and not just as the picture, so you fit them with the turn knob facing inwards,   
Those copper flex are too long

[stevie-g1968]

The issue here with using a tap flexi as you have there is the temp range that it is designed for...it should be ok if you run the boiler at a slightly lower temp on the boiler stat.
in 30 years of being a heating engineer I seen some amazing bodges...

[Peasy]

For temporary I would have bit copper pipe from rad valves on the new towel rad, then use grey push fit to connect to the old pipes making sure you get all the paint off the old pipes.

[Tmation]

I forgot to add I am trying not to drain down the whole system as I can isolate the one leaking rad.


If I turn the valves through 90 degrees I will need to drain down the whole system.


I have some copper pipe and 90 degree compression joints, I was just hoping to save time and effort by using the flex. The copper flex might work as I could just position the towel rail higher. It is only until the bathroom gets updated next year so not worried about the looks.


The reason I have asked is I don't want to bodge things as I work from home so don't need the drama.


Thanks for the replies

[fazersharp]

I forgot to add I am trying not to drain down the whole system as I can isolate the one leaking rad.

I have an unvented system and was able to shut off both sides of all the upstairs rads and so trapping the water in them so all that I had to drain off was the 1 barr pressure and a few pipes that were higher than what I was working on, took off old valves and there was the water level sitting at the top of the pipe.
The valves i linked to have a 15mm connection at both ends and are reversable so you can fit howerver you need, but you need to know what size yours are as some are bigger