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Messages - ArchDruid
1
« on: 01 March 2023, 02:55:46 pm »
Width across the nose (widest point) would be helpful (for the 1000)
Interesting to note that the headlights have the same part number for 600 & 1000 (5LV-8431000)
And the cowl part numbers are similar, with only the model identifier being different 5RT-2835G-00-P2 v 5LV-2835G-00-P2
Thus the question 'whats different ?' particularly if considering the above & you understand the structure of the yamaha part number convention ...
Cheers
2
« on: 24 February 2023, 07:43:35 pm »
So, besides my modified Fazer, and FZR, and a YZF, I'm busy building another 'special'.
Which of you knowledgeable & experienced people can tell me what the differences are between the fox eye versions of the 1000 and the 600. I'm looking to buy a nose cone, headlights & mounting bracket for a separate (non- Fazer) bike project. I was leaning towards the FZS 600 fox eye set, but have been offered one from a 1000.
Question is mainly around the sizes..., not worried about mounting arrangements - those will be modded to suit anyway.
Are the 1000 versions narrower than the 600 versions ?Any other arbitrary info would help...
Thanks !!
3
« on: 18 March 2021, 09:25:35 pm »
Should only be about 3psi or thereabouts. Enough to counteract gravity & keep the carbs full. Not like the 40-odd psi required for fuel injection systems...
4
« on: 17 March 2021, 07:33:34 pm »
Original, in great condition, all tabs & mounts intact. No scratches. from 2005 model. Only got LHS. £25 plus postage
5
« on: 10 November 2020, 10:42:20 pm »
OK then, I think I'm just going to have to bite the bullet & get stuck in. Checking wiring connections is the easy bit. Maybe I'm lucky and its just dirty connections causing distortion at higher frequencies.... Really don't want to get down underneath to change the sensor if I don't have to. Its in an ungodly place at the back of the crankcase, close to the swingarm pivot ... 
6
« on: 10 November 2020, 05:06:38 pm »
Before I start taking things apart, I though I'd put it out there to see if someone could point me quickly in the right direction. My speedo reading has always had a stable reading regardless of the speed. But now I've noticed the needle is getting a bit 'jumpy'. It gets worse the faster I go. Starts getting nervous at about 50. At 70 it bounces around between 65 & 75. And at about 120, its bouncing around between 100 & 140  ). Anyone had a similar issue ?
7
« on: 09 September 2020, 11:04:07 pm »
try nrp-carbs.co.uk I've bought bits & pieces there before, can't remember what tho ... Maybe not always listed on the website, so best to pick up the phone and chat to them. Always been helpful with me that way.
8
« on: 09 September 2020, 10:58:11 pm »
I only did one hole with the slip on kit. Happy with the result.
9
« on: 18 August 2020, 10:33:53 pm »
Got a link pipe, but it doesn't have those little loops on.
10
« on: 30 July 2020, 11:12:12 pm »
Centre-to-centre for the forks on the early R1's is 210mm. Same for YZF750, Fazer1000, FZ1, and FZ8.
I think the TRX850 and FZR750/1000 is 200mm. Later model FZR's (with USD forks) were 210mm.
Not 100% sure on that though. Better to double check.
11
« on: 30 July 2020, 11:00:33 pm »
Also got one, but not fitted. Let me know how it goes....
12
« on: 29 July 2020, 04:15:47 pm »
The Timing Rotor Bolt is 60Nm, according to Mr Haynes...
13
« on: 29 July 2020, 04:08:45 pm »
Not sure what you're trying to do here.... Gen2 ??
I've done a R1 fork conversion on a Gen1 with 5PW bottom yoke + 2D1 (FZ1) top yoke.
14
« on: 11 July 2020, 10:53:50 am »
From a yoke perspective, they are mechanically similar, except the offset. As long as the forks fit in the yokes - 54mm bottom yoke and 50mm top yoke (if I remember correctly), you should be fine.
As for the forks themselves, using 4XV / 5JJ forks, you can use the original Fazer axle, wheel & brakes.
With 5PW forks, you’ll need the 5PW front axle, but the original wheels & brakes can be used.
With later model forks, (5VY onwards) you’ll need the complete axle, wheel and brakes, and master cylinder (?). Because of radial type brakes and different size brake rotors
The various forks have different lengths, all of which are shorter than the original fazer (588mm). So its always going to be lower at the front, no matter which forks you use – just a question of how much lower.
5XV & 5JJ are about 544mm. I think they are the longest of the R1 options.
5PW & 5VY are about 520mm.
My collection of info may not all be correct, so happy if someone could confirm.
15
« on: 30 June 2020, 04:23:21 pm »
I have a separate ready-made top yoke (with all the bits to fit Fazer Frame/ R1 shocks). That might be helpful together with Billy's suggestion above.
I also have a complete R1 Triple tree (but without the required mods)
16
« on: 18 June 2020, 08:48:18 am »
I assume you're talking about the internal spacer just underneath the fork cap ?
I've made up these spacers before from aluminium tube. Not difficult, if you can find suitably sized tube with OD/ ID close to what you need.
What are the standard ID/ OD measurements for the 600 ?
17
« on: 18 June 2020, 08:40:59 am »
18
« on: 01 June 2020, 06:15:31 pm »
If any of you are considering a front suspension upgrade, I have a complete R1 Top & Bottom yoke set going cheap.
It’s the 4XV/ 5JJ version. I purchased this with the intention of using it, and repaired the Ignition key mounts (see pic) – someone had cut them off with a grinder, probably in desperation and unable to get the original security bolts out.
I eventually used a different version, and wont be needing this one any longer, so its going cheap.
Reasonable condition, with all the original nuts – although these would be different if you’re converting it for a Fazer.
£35 posted, or if that’s not good enough, make me an offer 😊
19
« on: 17 May 2020, 12:29:00 pm »
Hiya Folks
For all you guys that have tinkered with the R1 USD conversion …..
I’m looking for a R1 5PW bottom yoke (the 2002/2003 one with 25mm offset). One from an FZ1 or FZ8 would also be OK.
I only need the bottom piece, even without the stem would be fine.
I can part with a reasonable amount of cash, or alternatively, I have a complete R1 4XV/ 5JJ top & bottom set that I can offer as a swop.
20
« on: 23 April 2020, 10:46:29 am »
Yea, agree with Dudeofrude. I got generic ones from eBay - quite a few sellers on there. Flanged button heads in stainless steel, and you are usually able to define your requirement by thread size, length & pack quantity. Also available in black stainless.
21
« on: 13 April 2020, 08:10:01 am »
Mine are definitely stainless - at least down to the exup collector box. Not sure on thickness.
22
« on: 09 March 2020, 09:28:30 am »
Did you find one ?
I have one, but I would just need to check the sizes. I know the side that connects to the EXUP is standard (60mm ?) & I think the outlet is 51mm.
If you're still looking for one, I'll dig it out & measure it up.
23
« on: 25 August 2019, 11:09:28 am »
Recently painted Bodywork for Fazer 1000 Gen 1. 3 items: Fairing, rear cowling, and front mudguard. £100 excl postage. Tank not included, but I can provide paint codes for exact matching up. Prep & custom paintwork done by commercial professionals. Currently sitting in my loft. Would be ideal for someone's rebuild/ repair job (assuming you're happy with the colours  )
24
« on: 18 August 2019, 07:29:08 pm »
Sold
25
« on: 11 August 2019, 07:59:13 pm »
Really interesting development, well done.
Definitely a step up from the Multi-Gauge that I installed a few years back (in place of the analog temp & fuel indicators). I did that primarily for the gear indication, but that looks to be included in your package. Happy to hear more when the time comes.
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