Rear caliper pin rounded!!!

[mobile mouse]

completed full overhaul to both front calipers and replaced the pads.... back to great front brakes...

started on the rear... Not done for some time. Still got some meat on the pads, one caliper pad pin came out with some persuasion.
But the 2nd was a pig.

lots of Plus gas and then a good alen key and pop the key stripped the hex.

Any ideas how to get it out.
I have been looking at bolt removers and even watched video on Delboy's Garage

https  ://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nSxhvYu-x4g

But i don't have a welder... I do have JB Weld Original anyone tried this...

[darrsi]

Can't help with removal, but i can give advice when putting the pin back.
Use a "tiny" bit of copper grease on the thread, but then nip it up by hand.
I made the mistake of using a torque wrench, with copper grease, and it crossthreaded quite easily.
The grease totally messes up torque wrench levels and as the caliper metal is so soft it ruined it very easily.
There's really no need to tighten them up too much at all.
Lesson learned, but resulted in a new caliper all the same.


For the record, the same applies to the oil sump nut.
It ain't going anywhere, and is just plugging a hole, so just nip it up, it's all it needs.

[mobile mouse]

it is clogged up with road salt as I ride all the way through winter.


when the pads were last changed I did copper slip the thread and just hand tightened them.
Lesson learned strip and grease with copper slip BEFORE winter not after....

[bandit]

Off the top of my head could you push the pistons into the caliper to give a space in between the pads & get a pair of grips on the pin & turn it to remove. 
Or use a slightly larger star bit tap with a hammer into head or cut a slot into head & use a large flat screwdriver or on the face of the pin using a small chisel/screwdriver on the edge tap at a angle anti-clockwise with a hammer on the screwdriver handle.


There's nothing wrong with using copper grease (have done for years) but the modern alternative with vehicles with A.B.S is to use ceramic lube instead which doesn't contain metal which messes with sensors, Ceratec is the name available from Euro's or Carparts4Less.

[darrsi]

it is clogged up with road salt as I ride all the way through winter.


when the pads were last changed I did copper slip the thread and just hand tightened them.
Lesson learned strip and grease with copper slip BEFORE winter not after....

I do mine twice a year, before winter, then after, just to keep them in good shape.
Time consuming, but well worth it. I just pick a sunny and warm day to take my time and do things at a leisurely pace.
Having the calipers cleaned up twice a year obviously also helps in preventing seized pad pins or sticky caliper pistons as well.


Another good tip for extra feel when using the rear brake is to keep the pivoting area of the rear brake lever clean. There is so much crap in the rain these days, or the roads in winter, that if the bike is left outside exposed to the elements, like mine is at work, then it doesn't take long for dirt to build up inside the lever pivot and make the rear brake feel spongy.
Just a quick blast with brake cleaner or even WD40 cleans it all up instantly to bring back the sharpness when tapping the lever in traffic.

[bandit]

If you can get a hacksaw blade in between the pads cut a piece out of pin in the middle remove the pin (non head side) & pads, then get a set of grips on the pin & try to remove.   

[His Dudeness]

You could split the caliper in half and turn the pin out with a vice grip

[Disorderlypunk]

first step - stop watching delboy
if you can get a thin maul grip in there you might be able to twist it after giving it some heat on the caliper
make sure you remove the bugger from your lines and bike first and only apply heat to around the pin area
i found this out by having knackered pistons and finding it cheaper to just replace the calipers but the pads on my old ones were better but pins were truely stuck in aswell


as for splitting the calipers in half - not a bad plan but remember to get the o-ring replaced with the right type as found in link below
https://www.efunda.com/designstandards/oring/oring_chemical.cfm?SM=none&SC=Brake%20Fluid
getting the right o ring can sometimes be tricky because manufacturers dont tend to sell that particular oring as they dont like us mere mortals breaking open calipers (but sometimes it is needed- yep my chops calipers are open right now lol)

[Trebus]

I would suggest some heat and hammer a torx socket into the stripped hex. Often enough to get it out.

[Adam2201]

I recently had the same thing happen to one of the allen bolts on the foot peg holder.  I decided to go at it with the plan of softest options first:


1) elastic band over the hole with the correct size allen key
2) hammer a torx in. use manual impact driver
3) heat
4) cut slot in bolt for flat head


At this stage I was getting desperate.  Bought some of these on Amazon  [size=78%]https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multi-function-Gripping-Extractors-Engineer-neji-saurus/dp/B00NBSVYOY[/size] 


Expensive for a tool you don't use so much, and gimmicky looking, but they turned it straight out!  The reason they're good is that they properly bite onto the bolt head and you can apply loads of force.


Before I got them I wouldn't have thought they would have worked, but had seen some similar pliers used on Shane Conley's youtube channel.  If you're fairly close to West London I can always bring them over one night if you want to try them.