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Messages - ratkinsonuk
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« on: 24 May 2018, 09:28:38 am »
Oddly, I've just bought this Givi 3 litre bag to store phone, passport, etc in when touring. It uses the Tanklock system. so a pretty decent buy for £56... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132617372482Rob
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« on: 24 May 2018, 09:25:44 am »
Thanks for the advice Graham.
I'll take the filler cap off to clean it and give the tank a good check at the same time. I don't think it's rusted inside to be honest, I think it's more to do with a previous owner splashing fuel all over it repeatedly as the rubber seal for the cap looks fine so unlikely to be water ingress.
If it does turn out to be rusty, I'll go the new tank route.
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« on: 22 May 2018, 02:54:55 pm »
My FZ6 S2 got a hit on the last MOT for a rusty filler. It's been like that since I bought it.
I've decided it's about time I got it sorted, but I'm not sure which way to go with it - replacement or fix. Fowlers have it listed at a stonking £200+, so I'd be into finding a second-hand part.
The alternative is trying to remove the rust with something like this -https://mistralie.co.uk/products/gel-rust-remover.
I don't have a picture to hand at the moment, unfortunately, but it's pretty badly rusted and almost eaten through in a few places.
Any thoughts and ideas, or even better, someone with a spare fuel cap they'd like to donate?
Cheers, Rob.
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« on: 10 July 2017, 10:03:43 am »
@agricola - how did you go about blowing the crap out of the plug holes first?
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« on: 06 July 2017, 04:50:36 pm »
As I was saying, the seals appear to move in and out fairly easily. The amount of dust on the seals in the picture is down to 2000 miles riding in one week with the pads rubbing the disc. Prior to my trip, I replaced the pads and gave the calipers and pistons a good clean. There was no sign of any marks on the pistons at that point, but I'd admit I can't be 100% sure as I only remove one piston (accidentally).
At the moment, I'm inclined to think it's down to the grooves in the calipers caused by the pads, but don't know how I'd go about flattening them again.
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« on: 06 July 2017, 03:03:25 pm »
Just as an aside, a full piston kit (8 pistons and 16 rings) is over £140 from Fowlers!
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« on: 06 July 2017, 02:59:59 pm »
The pistons are moving freely at the moment. I'm able to easily push them in with one finger and the reservoir cap on.
I'm not ignoring your advice, and was going to try changing the seals as the next step (cheaper than £700 worth of calipers), but can you explain the mechanics behind it. How can leaking seals cause the pistons to stay out and the pads to bind?
I read on another post that the pistons don't automatically retract, but are pushed back by tiny movements in the disc against the pads. There will always be a small amount of contact on the disc because of this. If this is true, changing the seals would only help with breaking issues, and not releasing the breaks/pads afterwards?
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« on: 06 July 2017, 10:25:17 am »
Photo 3
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« on: 06 July 2017, 10:24:31 am »
Photo 2
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« on: 06 July 2017, 10:23:57 am »
Photo 1
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« on: 05 July 2017, 10:34:18 am »
Took some pictures last night.....   Do you think this could be enough to stop the pad sliding? Looks like only one side is sticking.
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« on: 03 July 2017, 01:14:38 pm »
This guy did it by just dropping the radiator, but looks like a pig of a job..
I need to do mine, so let me know how you get on.
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« on: 03 July 2017, 01:09:59 pm »
The amount of bind equates to about 20mph off the top end, Agricola, so it's not just natural pressure. From what I read last night, I'm inclined to think Unfazed is on the right track. Not looking forward to taking the calipers apart and having to bleed them afterwards, but I think it's where I'll have to start the hunt. The reservoir is actually quite dry, which I assume is due to unbled air making it's way up the brake lines. The alternative is a small leak on the piston that popped out, which I think can also cause binding issues. It's annoying, because the brakes work fine apart from this issue 
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« on: 02 July 2017, 10:22:18 pm »
I changed my front pads recently, but accidentally popped one of the pistons out of the caliper whilst cleaning. I've bled the brakes and they're working fine, but the pistons refuse to retract and the pads are binding, so the wheel won't rotate freely.
I've come back from a 2000 mile European trip expecting it to have sorted itself, but no joy.
Any ideas what I can do to get the calipers to release?
Cheers
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« on: 15 September 2016, 08:49:35 am »
Thanks BBrown, I'll take a look on my bike when I get a chance 
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« on: 14 September 2016, 02:00:20 pm »
Dave/BBrown - can you send me a pic or something showing where the connection to the break light is please?
Cheers.
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« on: 01 September 2016, 09:49:51 pm »
As the TomTom has a no-power sleep mode, I'd prefer to make use of it to automatically shut the thing down. I really don't want it draining the battery when the engine isn't going. I've been doing some running repairs tonight. Had the valve clearences done recently, and they managed to disconnect my Scott Oiler  Anyway, I had a hunt around and there's a very easy spot to take the positive from on the S2. The right-hand side-light has a connector just underneath the faring, and it's easy to access. The positive wire is Blue/Red on the S2 (and some other models) and only comes on with the ignition.
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« on: 01 September 2016, 01:52:45 pm »
One of the best 'cheaper' options is a sheepskin cover from Ikea for £15. Lots of downsides to this including rain, but worth trying out to see if it helps. Top-end fixes are blow-up seats. I personally like the Tourtec ones, but go for air and not gel. The reason your bum gets numb is because of the heat, not just the pressure. The air-flow through the blow-up cushions helps reduce this and keep you more comfortable. The downside to blow-ups (as well as the cost) is that it adds up to an inch in height, so you might end up going tippy-toe Most of the time though, I just lay forward on the tank to reduce pressure and cool my bot, or stand up on the pegs (don't try this at home kids).
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« on: 01 September 2016, 01:45:17 pm »
I've just put Michellin Pilot 4 Road on my FZ6, front and back.
Compared to the tyres I had on, these are miles ahead. Took me about 20 miles to scrub them in to the point I was confident to ride normally, so they're that good out of the box!
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« on: 01 September 2016, 01:40:50 pm »
A quick update on this. Having now replaced both the front and rear tyres (due to natural wear), the slow speed pull has pretty much disappeared. Although it wasn't visible, there must have been a certain amount of squaring on the tyres that was affecting the handling.
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« on: 01 September 2016, 10:00:37 am »
I've just splashed out a ridiculous amount of cash for a TomTom Rider (you would have thought TomTom would have spent a few quid on updating it's ancient interface by now!). It comes with a Ram Mount and power connections.
I've hunted through YouTube, but drawn a blank so I'd like to know the best place to take a switched positive so that the GPS is only powered when then ignition is on? This is for a 2007 FZ6 S2 (SA), by the way.
I have the Haynes service manual if you want to refer to that, but I'd appreciate some detailed instructions and a picture if possible so that I know I'm looking at the correct connection.
Cheers, Rob.
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« on: 27 June 2016, 09:44:26 am »
Cheers Graham and Slappy. It's due for a service soon, so I'll raise these specific points with the workshop and get them to check - they've got a much better idea what they're looking for than I have.
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« on: 23 June 2016, 01:21:17 pm »
Would that cause pull to both sides though?
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« on: 23 June 2016, 01:04:55 pm »
Every since I bought my FZ6 a year ago, I've noticed that it wants to pull to the side at low speeds, such as going round tight corners. This is more prominent to the right, but happens for both sides. I have to litterally fight the steering to stop it wanting to go full-lock.
I thought it was a vagary with my particular machine, but I've recently come across another Fazer owner with the same problem.
Anyone else experienced this, or might know what's wrong? It's not a massive problem, but I'd rather it wasn't there and the ride was much smoother.
Cheers, Rob.
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