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Messages - tnfazer
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« on: 10 June 2020, 08:33:40 am »
My advice is to keep the pressure on Yamaha. Make yourself such a (polite) nuisance that they'll replace it just to get rid of you. A frame is not a regularly replaced part, 13 years is well within normal use age of a motorcycle, and the issue is well-known factory defect.
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« on: 10 June 2020, 08:27:34 am »
£37 Tanya Batteries
https://www.tayna.co.uk/motorcycle-batteries/numax/yt14b-4/
No problems with it at all
Thanks! One on order now. Damn, I'm gonna miss the UK motorcycle shops after the Brexit. Every UK motorcycle shop is prepared to ship abroad, no fuss, no fight, whereas maybe 1/3 of Germans are willing to ship outside DE, AT, SUI, NL at any price. And I'm not in any of those countries. Anyone tried those lithium batteries? I have a vague recollection that they would not be very well suited for starter batteries because of their innate chemical properties.
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« on: 09 June 2020, 12:28:25 pm »
Hi all, Slowly winding up for the new season, and noticed that the battery on my 2003 Gen1 is on its last legs. I fully loaded it a couple of days before, but then on the D-day it cranked the engine over just a few times before giving up. A reload later it started fine, then OK at the gas station (D+10 minutes) and then just barely at another after an air pressure check (D+15m). Time for a new battery apparently (this one lasted 4 years). My alternatives are: - Original Yuasa YT14B-BS gel battery. 110-130€, depending on the source.
- There are now also Lithium-Ion (LiFePO4) batteries for the Gen 1. These are physically smaller so they need some padding around them, 2-3 kilos lighter, are claimed to have a longer lifespan, and also have significantly lower capacity (4 Ah - 12.6 Ah for Yuasa). Require some care with the charging equipment, higher voltages can apparently damage both the battery and what is around it... Price range for example from Louis.de is about the same.
- Other suggestions are welcome.
What kind of experiences have you had with various batteries? Those Yuasas have been good, but seem to be going up in price all the time. I am an irregular-but-intensive-rides-type, so at least this time I am going to also put a semi-permanent battery charger on the bike when it's standing. There I am considering either charger with a maintenance function, or using normal "smart" charger with a timer I have so that it would give, say, a 1-hour 1A boost to the battery maybe 3 days a week. Nothing is as frustrating as suiting up fully and then getting 3 revolutions out of the battery on a hot summer day. The battery spends winters safely indoors. Cheers, TN
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« on: 30 August 2015, 08:24:24 pm »
As much as I like a good argument, I am thinking about skipping HIDs and going straight to LED replacement bulbs based on some positive press reviews I've read. Admittedly without much expertise the hi/lo switch seems simpler with LEDs, and that's anyway the way the world is going. I'm retrofitting my home lightning gradually with 4000K LEDs and wonder why other people bother to sit in the dark  I don'r ride that often in the dark, but when I do I want to light up the woods to minimize the chances of barreling into a moose or a deer (and heck, I just got warned yesterday about wild boars in the area I'm going to next weekend). Anyone tried or thought about these? http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/3800-Lumen-H4-LED-Headlight-bulb-_p_83.html
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« on: 26 October 2013, 11:33:45 am »
If you're not looking for the all out grunt of the thou I would seriously consider the 600's (I know I'm biased as I'm selling one), I found mine to be a very comfy user friendly ride for poodling around, trouble is I don't poodle that much....
Having owned both a 600 (for 6 years) and a thou (for 7 years and running), I'd also recommend a 600 for a first bike, unless you are a really big and burly fella. I made the switch because I wanted to try a thou, and because it's much easier to ride two-up. Added mass and torque make a passenger much less noticeable. You didn't say anything about prior riding experience, so I assume that you have some. A 600 is more agile and probably more fun to ride. Cheaper to own as well. After riding a thou it feels like a bicycle and a bit flimsy, but a thou needs a bit more determined attitude to steering when going around turns.
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« on: 09 July 2013, 01:37:45 pm »
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« on: 05 May 2013, 11:15:00 am »
Pheww!  I let the fuel pump fill the carbs,and then tapped on float bowls and that seems to have sorted them. Lesson learned: tapping on empty float bowls only gets you dings on them but not much else. But the issue of O-rings that Mike brought up remains valid. It's going to come up sooner or later, so I'm going to stock up on those. All ideas on where (and for pilot and main jet O-rings what kind) to get are welcome!
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« on: 05 May 2013, 08:16:17 am »
Great. "Swamp there, bog here", as a local saying goes. I started draining the floats when a clogged main jet (?) gave me a bad scare 3 winters ago. It started and idled nicely, but when I tried to pull away into the traffic all I got was coughing and sputtering. That time it cleared itself, fortunately. Do one, and you have to pull the carbs come spring. Do the other, and you still have to pull the carbs come spring  Next winter I may try running the bike warm every 3 weeks. That probably fouls the plugs, for neighbour's sake I can't rev it too much... Mike, are you with our American co-Fazerists about the relative merits of Vitol vs. Buna-rubber (nitrile) O-rings? More advanced always sounds better to me (that's probably why I ride a bike that's a decade old...) but you can't get alcohol-free gas here at all. 5% ethanol is the minimum, I usually run 10% with no problems, and if that melts Vitol O-rings then it's an easy decision. Any other rubber parts I should prepare to change while I'm at it (main & pilot jet O-rings, float bowl O-rings, etc.)? Does any have the sizes for other jet O-rings? Float bowl "O-rings" probably have to come from Yamaha at € 10 each. Float needle seat O-rings are not even available individually, you have to buy the entire float needle set at €51 /each!!!  (Parts info from here)
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« on: 04 May 2013, 09:38:23 pm »
If it's not a stuck float chances are it's the float needle seat O-rings:
http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=103599&highlight=found+carb+failure+mode
The key to getting the carbs in and out easily is to make sure the airbox goes back far enough. You should get about 1cm clearance between the carb and the airbox side rubber boot. To do this, pull the EXUP cables out from behind the airbox and also look for the zip tie on the crossframe rail. If the block on this joker is in the wrong place, it will rob you of clearance.
Re the airbox rubbers, here's a tip. When you slacken the clamps, push them back on the stubs and then re-tighten them. This prevents them fouling and also helps keep the stubs round. A squirt of silicon lube or WD40 on re-fitting helps a lot, too - particularly in getting the carbs into the head-side stubs.
OK, much appreciated! I'll try tomorrow knocking the carbs once more, this time with fuel in them. Previous attempts were made on drained carbs, maybe the floating floats are easier to unseat. If that fails, I'll have to pull the carbs, and I'll replace the O-rings anyway while I'm at it. The bike has only 30,000 kms but 10 years on it, so it wouldn't surprise me if some substandard O-ring would have gone bad. I wonder what determines where the fuel comes out? As mentioned, the previous time it all just flowed out of carb overflow hoses, but now those are dry and it just oozes out from the carb. Anyone know any Euro webshops that would sell those 7,5*1,5 mm O-rings? By the way, is it absolutely necessary to drain the coolant before removing carbs, as the shop manual states?
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« on: 04 May 2013, 10:20:15 am »
Finally nice & sunny, so I decided to take the bike out for a spin. (We don't have polar bears here, but three weeks ago you could still go skiing).
I had drained the float bowls in the autumn, and when I connected the battery and turned ignition on the fuel pump buzzed quite normally. The bike started ok with choke on, but after a few seconds started running kinda odd, wouldn't keep going except on throttle, and then I noticed I was standing in a fuel puddle.
Here's what I've found out so far:
- Fuel just oozes out of apparently from the front of the carbs, with no clear source of where it comes out.
- Tapping the float bowls didn't seem to help, tried that twice after draining the float bowls. I've had a stuck float once earlier, right after I put the Holeshot kit in, but that was easily rectified by tapping the bowls (thanks Mike!). But that time the excess fuel spewed out of a carb overflow hose.
- If I drain the float bowls and then switch ignition on but don't start the engine, after a while fuel starts to seep out of carbs 3&4 while 1&2 seem to remain dry. I don't know if waiting longer would start the leak also from 1&2.
The bike's got a Holeshot kit in, and at the same time I at least tried to adjust the float levels as per Pat's instructions. Apart from the first problems, it has run fine with the kit for 3,000 miles and one spring start before this.
Any ideas?
(God, how I hate pulling carbs... Any suggestions as to how to get especially the 2&3 airbox side rubber boots to seat easily on carbs are also welcome. Nearly drove me crazy the last time before I got them straightened and clamped.)
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« on: 07 June 2012, 10:51:22 am »
And to come back to the ancient question: organic or sintered? Guy at the counter convinced me to buy organics, saying that it's better to wear pads than discs, and that on road and in less than 10/10 track riding any benefits from sintereds are insignificant, but now I'm having second thoughts. OEMs are organic, I think, while sintered are cool (as in  ), but do they offer more bite and feel? I know that they dissipate heat better so they aren't as likely to fade in hard use, but that's fairly irrelevent for me. But if there's more braking performance, I'd be willing to give sintereds a shot and start saving for new discs. Any experiences?
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« on: 03 June 2012, 06:04:39 pm »
There are two different kinds of EBC HH pads for Gen1, FA252HH and EPFA252HH. EP supposedly stands for Extreme Performance, and price doubles Anyone tried EPFA-HH pads, how do they compare to FA-HH? Did a brake fluid change and a wash yesterday, and had a noticeable reduction in braking power. I don't believe I sloshed around so much fluid as to get it on the pads, so I attributed it to moisture or something, but just in case I am preparing for a pad change.
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