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Messages - AdieR
451
« on: 15 April 2012, 05:50:03 pm »
Where abouts in the Highlands? I used to stay up that way a few years ago before upping sticks to N.Yorks.
452
« on: 14 April 2012, 01:31:54 pm »
Firstly - check your coolant level; have you any leaks? Or do your have mayonnaise-like substance in your oil (coolant and oil mixing)?
If that looks ok, check your fan fuse (has it blown?), fan motor (if you can trace the wiring, try and run it straight off the battery, if it runs its ok), fan relay (with ign OFF, brown / black wire should have voltage, red / white wire should have voltage with ign ON). If thats ok, unplug the relay connector, and using a multimeter on ohms, go between the relay brown / black wire and the blue wire (it should show as an "open circuit", ie no continuity). If thats ok, then put 12v (battery) positive (+) to red / white wire and battery negative (-) to the green / yellow terminal - the relay should click (you'll hear it), and your meter should show 0 (zero) ohms (if it does, the relay works). If the relay shows no reading all the time (ie your fan never works), or 0 ohms all the time (fan always on), the relay is knackered.
If the fan and relay are both ok, check the coolant temperature sensor: place it in water / coolant with a thermometer, and you should get the following readings: at 0C - 5.21 - 6.37 K ohms, 10c - about 4K ohm, 20c - about 3K ohm, 80c - 290ohm-350ohm.
If you aren't sure about electrical testing / don't have access to a multimeter, then you can try substituting the relay / sensor for a known good one and see if your fan works.
On the S2, the sensor supplies a signal to the ECU, and the ECU tells the fan relay to come on.
Hope that helps.
453
« on: 14 April 2012, 12:39:06 pm »
454
« on: 14 April 2012, 12:36:31 pm »
There was an anti-virus program available on the net ("Avast" rings a bell, I'll see if I can find a link), reputed to be better than many commercial a/v, and if memory serves it is (or was) available with (IIRC) a month free trial.
Whether it would work in your case I don't know, but maybe worth a try?
Shall have a look and see if I can find it.
455
« on: 04 April 2012, 09:22:05 pm »
To be honest, most systems will be quite reliable. After a significant mileage, injectors will need to be removed and cleaned, but don't require any periodic checks. Many faults attributed to FI / engine management system faults are often due simply to the usual wiring faults (loose / corroded terminals, broken / chafed wires etc) - its important when fault-finding these systems that you don't go overlooking the basics. For example, a system may give a fault code relating to a particular component (eg code 34 "O2 sensor faulty"). Many people will assume the sensor to be faulty, buy a new one, and have the same problem - because the wiring to it is damaged and the ECU can't get a signal. The signals in these systems are tiny, and it doesn't take much to upset them and cause a problem.
I've always taken the view that if I don't understand whats going on underneath, I'll take some time to find out - maybe it'd be worth buying a couple of books or looking for a college course to get clued up on these engine management / FI systems? You'll certainly learn something from it, if you do it through college then you'll make some new mates, you might get a couple of beers if you can help your mates having trouble with their machines, and you might just enjoy it - or indeed, you may even be able to find a job or carve out a new career with it if you're so inclined.
456
« on: 01 April 2012, 04:24:38 pm »
As I understand it, if you're based (and resident) in the UK, your tax / NI will fall under UK rules and rates (and paid in GBP), even if its a foreign owned firm. If you're likely to be based (resident) in Germany, the tax will fall under their tax system (which also means that you'd have to have a German social security number). If you're simply visiting Munich but living here, you shouldn't need this.
As for purchasing / sub-contracting from Germany, I don't see a problem, except maybe distance if there's a problem on-site for example (how easily can they get someone over if a problem arises?).
457
« on: 31 March 2012, 07:34:54 pm »
Not something I'd try on my own pride and joy: you might find that it doesn't run that well (confused oxygen sensor / engine management), may not pass an MoT (noise and / or emission levels), Mr Plod may take a dim view of it, and insurance would probably need to know (modification).
The other point is manufacturers spend £m on the R&D of these things to achieve a balance between function, cost, type approval, manufacturability and various other factors. Their engineers have access to a wealth of data incomprehensible to you and I, have umpteen years experience designing these systems and getting them to work, and in my view the average home mechanic is unlikely to improve on these things.
458
« on: 31 March 2012, 07:17:03 pm »
I personally remove it anyway for the minute or so it takes. I have used open-face lids and left them on without a problem, though I tend to use the same filling station anyway and they tend to recognise me (or the bike) anyway.
That said, one filling station round the corner from me was robbed at gunpoint about 6 months ago (female cashier on own and late at night). The "gun" was an imitation and incapable of firing, but if you're face-to-face with that, would you know? Or wish to find out? A 16 year old and an 18 year old locked up this week for said robbery.
459
« on: 31 March 2012, 07:02:50 pm »
I recall when I started driving (on my dads car ins), the policy evidently increased, and adding my brother on the same policy dropped it by £7.00 - apparently it was simply that although there were 3 people on the policy, there were still no accidents / claims. Apparently the other factor however is that as a named driver on a policy, the insurer works on the principle that the named driver/s will have use of the vehicle only part of the time, whereas a policy holder is regarded as having full-time use of the vehicle.
460
« on: 27 March 2012, 09:37:41 pm »
Yep, them midges ARE a bugger at that time of year....and, yep, I've seen it snow in May up there before today as well  How far north are you going? I'm going up mid-May for a mates wedding (and hopefully it won't snow!).
461
« on: 12 March 2012, 09:33:48 pm »
Welcome! (I'm new to this sie as well!).
One point of advice to consider whilst you're looking at the bikes is to consider the insurance if you haven't already. Also, if you're not sure of your way round bikes, take a trusted mate with you.
I just bought a one-owner, 10,500 mile 2008 (58 plate) FZ6 S2 Fazer from a (good) local dealer, £3500 (advertised £4k). There was an '03 plate FZS6 up for sale at £1895 (probably £1600-£1700 if you haggle), that one in your link looks like it could be a good deal, if you offer cash, you'd probably get the price down a bit more if s/he's itching to sell.
Good luck with the test, and whatever machine you subsequently buy.
462
« on: 12 March 2012, 04:40:23 pm »
Picked it up last week, had it out for a couple of short-ish local runs, first big bike so it's a bit different from the 50s / 125s that have gone before! And I'm in (sunny?) Scarborough. Top notch machine though 
463
« on: 11 March 2012, 04:43:18 pm »
New to this site, just bought a 2008 / '58 plate FZ6 Fazer S2 in black.
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