Great write up and very useful!

Not had to do this job but will remember this if I do.

Chris

A good carb balance will almost always help smooth it out. I've used stp stuff before and it certainly didn't hurt but balancing the carbs is what really helped mine run super smooth. No hesitation after start up and pulls much better through all revs in all gears.

Chris

We did get a group buy organised for a set of silicone hoses and it was successful, got them made by sfs performance which are a uk based company. However all attempts since to organise another group buy have failed and for some reason sfs have been unwilling to sell individual kits even though they have all the correct tooling already. Sorry I can't be more help.

Chris

Hey darrsi,

Unfortunately not had a chance to get near the bike since my last post. Ill health and then working a lot of extra night shifts at the moment just haven't had the time. Weather is looking better the next few days and I finally have some time off so might get a chance to do something with it. The nice weather might be spent giving the cars a good deep clean and protection before winter sets in though!

Cheers,

Chris

Yeah, sometimes you have to try it out on the road to see if it works or not. I found that when setting up my renthal bars. Thought I'd got the button positions/indicators spot on then took it for a run and had to adjust it all a bit.

I'd be worries with them that flat the if it rained the clocks would end up as bird baths. 

Chris

Wow! been a while since they were looked at last! Should run a lot better now after a wee service 

Chris

I've got 758 ultra lows on my foxeye 600 and they don't touch anything. 

Chris

Quote from: Chris on 07 September 2015, 07:36:25 pm

Haha, it was only a poor effort if the seat was supposed to sit right against the bodywork which in the case of the fazer I don't think it was...

It's a lot more obvious with the grab rail off too.

Chris

Why would you design a gap between seat and tail unit?

To match the gap between the frame and the tank... to create more lines of detail on the bike... I'm not sure... 

Chris

haha, no but looks the same as mine... My seat is in no way loose though so if yours is then maybe needs the hook at the back slightly adjusted..

Here's a pic of mine, can see the gap is the same.

Chris

That is quite the day! Hope the new tyres are good on the bike.

There are definitely days where it's best to just sit and watch tv rather than try and do anything...

Chris

So today,

Checked headstock bearings and seem to be ok but will change them if I can't solve it by doing other easier/cheaper things first.

New front wheel bearings arrived today so displaced front calipers and spun the wheel, seemed to spin freely enough for a couple of rotations then slowed to a stop. Anyway removed front wheel and dust seals and one of the bearings was definitely on it's way out, very gritty to turn between fingers and had slight rust deposits on it. I fear this has been my fault as when I got the wheels powder coated I had to put in bearings before I could have the tyres fitted... However I washed, dried and sealed the wheels before putting them on the bike... I obviously got water on the bearings... every day is a school day, won't be doing that again!

Anyway, New bearings in and refitted front wheel, lightly spun it and thought it was never going to stop spinning!! A huge improvement! Put the calipers back on and the wheel didn't spin much because of the resistance from the pads. Took it for a run and still the same problem although not so sure it's a pulse through the lever as much as just juddering and shaking the front fairing and mirrors and feeling it through the pegs and frame...

Shame it hasn't helped but I'm glad I changed it as it was definitely needing it!

I'm going to replace the rear wheel bearings as they were also washed before being refitted and the chance of one of them being rusty etc is fairly high and for my own piece of mind I want to replace them. It might make no difference to my problem but then it might, if the rear wheel bearing isn't happy then by using the front brakes the weight is taken off the rear wheel so if it's resonating and not turning right it could be translated to juddering through the frame... maybe...

Not going to have a chance to do anything with the bike for the next week but will let you all know if I come up with anything. Pad retaining springs also arrived today darrsi but didn't have a chance to try that as I'd already started the bearings and just wanting to change one thing at a time so I know what the problem has been.

Chris

so had a chance to try the bike with one caliper tied up out of the way and went for a little run and then tied the other side up out the way and went fro another little run.

Results are a little odd.. No pulse through the lever on either run but definitely a bit of rumbling from the front end enough to still shake the mirrors a bit. Wondering if this points more to front wheel bearings. I'm guessing that with both calipers on it's trying to pull the wheel either way causing the pulse through the lever as the brakes favour one side then the other. And with just one caliper on it isn't constantly trying to fight that force... It makes sense in my head anyway.

 Now, I do remember when I had the wheels powder coated that the front bearings were, what I considered to be very tight going in. Because of this when it came to fitting the rear wheel I sanded out the bearing seat to remove any primer from the powder coating process. So, it could be that the front bearings have been too tight... There doesn't appear to be any play in them on rotation while up on the jack or side to side (checked by holding top and bottom of wheel and then rotating wheel 90 degrees and pushing again etc all the way around). Head stock bearing also appears fine, no notches and doesn't settle in any position when front wheel is off the ground.

Have ordered new bearings for the princely sum of £8 so worth a try. Will remove old bearings and clean out bearing seats to make sure they are to bare metal.

Chris

I'll make sure and clean up the discs to make sure there's no deposits on there.

Thanks sidewinder, yeah, I made sure the surface on the hub of the wheel where the disc carrier sits was super clean and level after the wheel was powder coated so hopefully not that but that was the first thing I checked so good thinking  Amazing how something so insignificant can have such a dramatic effect on the brakes.

Chris