Morning.


Does anyone know the length of all the original brake hoses/pipes?


Are they measured by the hose/pipe without the banjos or are the banjos included in the overall length?


Lastly has anyone bought brake hoses/pipes from Amazon? If so are they any good?


Cheers

cheers guys

Good news all fixed and working back to normal


Lessons learn't:
1. Workshop manual doesn't go into much detail, Haynes manual more helpful
2. Pressure plate fits in a specific way
3. Somehow I got the plates mixed up which affected the judder spring! correct plate for the judder spring and all is good


Thanks for your help

I  have always used the 8Nm torque setting.


I’m going to go back to my original diagnosis, the pressure plate is probably on in one of its wrong positions. I’ve never understood why they don’t warn about this in manuals. Perhaps they just like selling replacement plates.


Checking is easy:
See if the friction plates have any free play. If they can be moved slightly up and down the slots then the plate is on wrong.
If it is wrong, and has had the spring bolts tightened when in that position, take it out and inspect the bases of the wells that house the springs. If they’re cracked or broken you’ll need a new pressure plate.
Refit in a different position and press the pressure plate with one hand, if the plates are loose still, refit 60º further round. When the pressure from your hand actually squeezes the plates together it’s the correct position.

I will have another look that this, when I put it on there is a bit of free play/wiggle room,  I will go systematically turning it around. 


When I tightened them up to 8Nm the clutch is solid.  When I tightened the bolts up about half way I and pulled the clutch leaver you can see the clutch moving as it should.


Thanks for the help again guys

Hi guys, I don't have access to my haynes manual and want to check what torque setting that the compression springs that go onto the pressure plate are.
I want to compare it to the workshop manual in case its wrong
The work shop manual says 8Nm, Haynes says?

Thanks for the suggest, ive had another go at this and checked and the ball bearing is there.  Im at a bit of a loss now.
Its all bolted up as per the torque settings for the workshop manual but when i press the clutch lever it doesnt seem to engage, my thinking is if its spring related now.  I looked at u tube and have attached pics how the clutch looks.  Mine seems to be sticking out further, as you can see the clutch plates seem a bit recessed by mine stick out just over the edge of the basket.
In the video he reuses the 6 clutch springs and the other spring and it all goes back on the same way.  As far as I can tell they use 9 clutch plates the same as me but mine doesn’t look like theirs in both videos

I havent ridden it yet to test it but on the centre stand it seemed ok.  Ive pullied in the free play as much as i can, will test ride it tomorrow then

Hi, decided to try a silent front sprocket from JT as there wasn’t much in the price. Got it in front of me and its different on each side, one side is continuous rubber and the other side has two halfs of rubber.
Does it matter which way round it has to go on?
Full rubber ring facing the engine?
Cheers guys

Thanks all for your advice, had 3 test rides now and it all seems to be back to normal.
I readjusted the pilots back to factory settings and retuned the carbs and it seems fine.
I tested the electrics and changed the ht caps, leads and regulators, when i put a multi meter over them there seemed to have different reading, thought its better safer than sorry

Hi, Yes checked the TPS the other day, I have the old one of the other carbs, I can try that one

Cheers for all the advice.


I've previously checked the TPS and it seems ok, well within the ranges, may need a little adjustment to make it exact.  Think its just over the 5000 rpm mark.


Think I've made some head way.


A mate said to try a compression test on the cylinders.  All cylinders are coming in very low, about 2/3rds down on compression around 4kg/cm2 instead of 12 to 15kg/cm2


To me this is corresponding to the carbs when i tried balanced them and they were also coming in at a lower range to the books.


If this is the valves/piston rings has anyone else had these done recently?  I will check out all the other suggestions as well first, but looking at how much a garage will charge to fix this?


Would like to do it myself to save the labor charges but the girlfriend won't be happy with me being in the garage for a week or two.


Wondering if its worth fixing or moving on to something else.  Cheers

Hope you guys can give me some ideas how to fix my bike Fazer 600, mark 1, 2000 reg


Last year I cleaned my bike with the engine running (due to previous issues with electrics on other bikes) and the fuel was lower that I thought.  Two days later I went to take the bike to get a rear tyre and the bike struggled to start and barley ride able.  Managed to get back from the tyre shop and clean the carbs up enough to get it working enough to go on my trip to Germany, Ok at motorway speeds but struggled on the lower speeds.


When I got back I gave the carbs to my mate who took them apart.  Said the Sliders/needles were a bit loose and could do with new ones.  Official replacements from Yamaha are worth half the cost of the bike and unable to find any kits that contain the jets etc but found a decent set of replacement carbs on ebay.  My mate has taken bits from both set of carbs and make the best we could into one set this has been sonic cleaned before reassembly.


Fitted the carbs but the pilots were not set to factory setting, balanced the carbs and the bike sounded back to normal.  While test driving it showed there was a problem.  Around 4.5 to 5000 rpm the bike struggles with acceleration and seems to stutter.  When you eventually get over the 5000rpm marker the bike takes off again.  This only happens when the bike warms up and you slowly accelerate.


If the bike is cold or you accelerate hard from a standing still there is no issue.  Talked to a few people and they advised just to ride the bike for around 500miles for the carb bits to bed in.  This made sense to me but I know the pilots were out.  Compared to what it was when I first had the problem is was certainly worth putting up with for the time being.


Finally had 5 mins to myself last weekend and the pilots had been playing on my mind, took the carbs off as I have no adjuster tool and reset the pilots to 2 turns out.  Put an inline fuel filter on as well as a back up to the original fuel filer and I can see if there is any issues with the fuel.  Balanced the carbs, all sounded good rev'd through the ranges etc.


Took it out last night.  Again when cold its like it was like before, accelerates through the previous problem of the stutter, fast and slow.... then the bike warms up and the issue is still there, plus a new one. 
When stopped at traffic the revs have started sticking at 2000 rpm,  I play with the rev adjuster on the carbs and it settles down again but this kept happening a few times.


Lastly when on tick over the rev counter pusles and bobs up and down a little.  Idle rev's sett to the manual.  This never happened before


Any ideas what to do next?


As the issue seems to be when the engine warms up is it now something with the engine as the carbs seem fine when its cold and when being rev'd in the garage.


A further note, the book says to set the carbs between 230 to 250mm but when I have balanced them and my mate has balanced them they only go to 125mm.  I can't see how to get them any where close the service manual's recommendation.


Penny for your thoughts, Ive looked at several forum notes and not sure what to do next.


Cheers

Darren