... and withstood ethanol mixed into gasoline better than the old originals.

This is a good point. I don't know if it has been addressed before in another topic.
Doing a quick google search it seems Viton o'rings are more resistant to ethanol than NBR, so that's what I'll look for.

Yeah, I've Ivanized it 5 years ago, and at the time didn't change any of the o'rings.

 

HI all, I'm looking to find a good quality maintenance kit for the carburetors. I'm talking only about the floater valves, o-rings, etc.
OEM parts are prohibitively expensive, but on the other hand I want to avoid cheap Chinese knock offs like from AliExpress and others.
Any suggestions ?

Without knowing your riding style, I would suggest a good set of sport touring tyres, like Michelin Road 5 or 6.   
I had also good experiences before with T30 from Bridgestone, so I assume the current generation T32 will be even better. 

For what we can (or should) do on the road on a Fazer, these should be more than enough.
A more sport oriented tyre could give more grip at certain limit situations, but in my opinion, if you are ever losing grip on the street, it will be most likely due to road conditions, and much less becuase of any differences in the tyres being sport vs sport touring.

Another factor to consider is wear, but not just as maximum mileage. 
I find the Fazer very sensitive to front uneven wear, and front tyre tend to wear more on the sides, resullting in a more triangular profile.
This makes streering very hard. To stay leaned in a corner, we need to apply more counter steering. It is uncomfortable to ride, and makes me lose trust in the front.
With sport tyres this will start to happen much earlier, and at that point I prefer just to throw them, and put on a new pair, even if there was still a lot of mileage left on the tyres.

At some point I tried LED , from Osram, LEDriving H4.
They light well, the beam remains very defined, but I found out the light to be too "cold" and I didn't like to see the radiators sticking out.
End up returning them for some Philips 130% plus.

the one in the photo above looks to be  ?

To me that seems like a master cylinder from the FJR or XJR, combined with an aftermarket line and slave cylinder.
There are a bunch of these slave cylinders in the market.
I personally wouldn't go that route, and the main reason being these are systems that work with same DOT 4 brake fluid.Magura instead works with mineral oil. It doesn't age the same way, but more importantly it will not damage paint if it gets in contact.

As far as I know Venhill does not have their own hydraulic clutch system, but they offer Magura.
They do have their own featherlight clutch cable which I never tried.
I replaced several times the clutch cable with original Yamaha ones until I decided to go for the Magura, and was the best decision, although a bit pricy.

For some motorcycles, Magura offers a pre-assembled ready to install kit, but that doesn't include the FZS 1000.
Instead you need to select each individual part from their catalogue and build it yourself.

For me, one major advantage is that Magura works with mineral oil. It does not attack engine painting, whereas that XJR conversion will work with DOT 4.
I personally don't like the idea of DOT 4 anywhere close to the engine or other painted surface, unless it was from factory.

Assuming the clutch cable is new or well lubed, and everything else being equal, just by changing the clutch plates, can you expect a lighter actuation force on the clutch lever ?

I had issues one time after filling a tank with E10 petrol and leaving the bike stopped for almost three months.
At the time I was not aware of the ethanol effects.
Results: Difficult to start up, uneven running engine, hard to pick up power particularly noticeable at low/mid rpm.
Carbs were dirty but fortunately there was no corrosion nor damaged seals, and the engine was running fine again after a cleaning and putting in a new fuel filter.

I would consider to take a look at that as well when you service the bike, especially if it has a history of using gasoline with ethanol, combined with long periods of winter storage, which I assume are usual in Norway.

I am really convinced the installation was well performed, every step of it. Again, thanks for the instructions and countless tips.


As I wanted to change the throttle cables, I went ahead and pulled out the carbs to check.
Everything was perfectly clean, but the strange thing was the floats height being completely out of spec, 10 to 11 mm.
I set them back at 14.5 mm.


I have the original throttle tube 36 mm, which I now trimmed to 34 mm.
Was a good move, and at the same time I get a slightly lighter actuation force.


After readjusting the floats, the engine is now easier to start, whether from cold or hot.
Perhaps is running smoother too, and with the trimmed throttle tube, I think the throttle response is less harsh now. I still need to check it better in a longer ride, but so far seems promising.






 

Hi everyone, first post here, though I've been following the forum for quite some time.
I have Ivanised my FZS 1000 a couple years ago, standard kit. The job was relatively easy even for the first time, thanks to the information available here and Pat FZ1 site.
Although it was fun in the beginning, I feel the throttle response to be much sharp and too sensitive for everyday riding.  I would say it is the equivalent on a modern bike to run in sport mode. It's fun to do occasionally, but not all the time.
Any thoughts on that ? Anything worth doing ?