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Messages - Wilko
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« on: 21 June 2012, 01:25:45 pm »
Are these still available or have they gone on e-bay yet??
I would be interested not sure of a price to be fair either, so give me an idea of what you would like for them.
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« on: 21 June 2012, 12:25:41 pm »
Now thats a cracking idea, I have found that I seem to be leaving it on a lot longer than I used to on the RF. I totally agree that it is possible this is done because the warning lamp is so much lower on the dash than on the RF.
Any pics of it on your bike please??
3
« on: 20 June 2012, 10:27:08 pm »
Always put a bit of that non-slip matting you can get for caravans, pillion seats etc.
It's thin enough to allow the magnets to take hold and will stop any scratches etc from getting anywhere near your tank.
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« on: 20 June 2012, 12:55:38 pm »
Here is mine .... if i can get it to show ... 
5
« on: 20 June 2012, 12:58:46 am »
I used the bar mount, where you clamp it to the handlebars.
I put it centrally on the bars, and it looked okay, had to go around the mount to get to the keys, but no major drama. Only thing I found was that it was too low without obscuring the clocks, and as such I would have to physically move my head to look at the screen.
I have now positioned it so that the arm etc comes up behind the clocks and the sat nav actaully sits above the clocks. This has only been possible after buying a bubble type screen to give the extra room. It now saves me physically moving my head to see it, just a downward glance now gives me full vision of the screen and the clocks.
Will try and get a pick soon :-)
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« on: 20 June 2012, 12:38:49 am »
So, not having a centre stand, involves moving the bike back, oil, move back.... Repeat.
Is there an easier way?
Buy a centre stand Buy an Abba stand (much the same as above) Fit a Scott Oiler Buy one of them cheap and nasty wheel mover things (basically you put your rear wheel on it and its either rollers or balls that make it "suppposedly" easy to move your rear wheel Hope that helped :-D
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« on: 20 June 2012, 12:33:57 am »
 A cracker that one CRH
Wilko - I'm an advanced planner I will be fitting heated grips and a MUCH louder horn that will both require the fitting of a relay. And let's face it, it's hardly complicated.
Maybe complicated is the wrong word, but it's certainly over the top. The horn, okay it's possible that you may exceed the load rating of the wiring and switch, so fair enough. As for the heated grips, run it straight from the ignition cable and use the in-line fuse that is supplied (or at least should be). Do not understand the need for a relay. Only reason I say this is that my recent horror when I lifted up the tank on my recently bought Fazer to find wires galore, and relays galore for things that really did not need a relay at all. All ccts now come straight from the ignition cable, through their own fuses and no over complicated wiring with relays etc. Pet hate of mine is having making more work and using things that are not really required. However if you are happy to be doing it that way at the end of the days it's your bike .... CRACK ON!!!
8
« on: 19 June 2012, 11:04:33 am »
A relay to wire up a tomtom???
Just connect it straight into the ignition wire and then protect it with a fuse.
Really cannot understand why people over complicate electrics.
9
« on: 18 June 2012, 11:24:31 pm »
Agreed it's cheaper, but in my experience does not last anywhere near as long. normal paint chips far to easily.
I would get the tyre off, flat off the inside of the rim, mask off the outside, etch primer then spray it with colour a lot cheaper than powder coating.
10
« on: 16 June 2012, 01:12:45 am »
More people mistakenly overtighten fasteners "just to be on the safe side" than undertighten. Best to beg/borrow/steal a torque wrench particularly tightening steel into alloy. Mistakes can prove expensive. Please dont use agricultural techniques! 
Never has a truer word been spoken. Whilst changing my rear brake pads a few days ago, I decided for the first time in ages to actaully torque the bolts to the right torque. I was amazed when tightening them with a normal ratchet I was already over the 40Nm required and had to back them off!!!
11
« on: 15 June 2012, 04:38:34 pm »
Sorry bud, I thought you had a 2000 model. Having re-read you do clearly state 2002, I need to get my mince pies sorted ....
sorry for the false hope.
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« on: 14 June 2012, 05:14:08 pm »
The double bubble screen arrived today from Powerbronze! I put it on, the dark tinted screen with my yellow fairing looked good. Took it out for a quick blast and its worse than the standard screen!  It has moved the buffeting from my chest area right onto my face making it worse even at lower speeds! Will be sending it back tomorrow and sticking with the standard screen. At least now i know. Wouldnt mind getting a standard screen with the dark tint though...
I have just replaced my standard dark tint screen with the power beonze, for me it has made the longer rides more comfortable unless I do stupid speeds when the wind whips around the side and seems to hit my head at the side. thankfully I am a law abiding citizen (most of the time) and don't suffer the problem a lot. I have the screen available on fleabay if your interested in a standard dark tint. Its not perfect, has the usual swirls from cleaning, but has no big scratches or cracks. If you want to make me a sensible offer I could take it off fleabay and its yours, would rather it go to a fellow board member than some stranger.
13
« on: 14 June 2012, 05:06:08 pm »
Hi from me .... Colin Wilkinson or WILKO to my mates ....
I have recently added a FZS600 (2000 Model) to my collection of bikes and have always found these boards very usefull.
I also own a Suzuki RF400 and RF600.
Looking forward to learning and helpin others where I can.
14
« on: 23 May 2012, 12:42:56 pm »
The advice about a neck tube thingy is the best I can give. I have a #2 as I work for her Majesty and she states I have to have short hair!!
I used to get the helmet hair coming into work everyday and used to get told off for looking scruffy!! Was okay once the feret was put on head as it hid it ... lol ......anyway ... I started to use the neck tube/scarfs and it did the trick, recently I forgot to put one on and upon taking helment off and running my fingers across the back of my head I felt the dreaded helmet hair again!!!!!
15
« on: 10 May 2012, 09:20:37 pm »
Hi, I am a new Fazer 600 ownere, not sure which model I have, as in a 98-99 or 00-02 model, although it was registered in 00 doesn't mean it is a 00 model, if you get my drift, so help on identifying that would be gratefully recieved.
I live between Birkenhead (Merseyside) and Corsham (nr Bath) due to my job. It looks like I will be spending more time at the later, and possibly moving near there in the not to distant future.
I have previosuly owned a Yamaha XS250, Suzuki RF400 and an RF600.
I enjoy nothing better than simply getting out on the bike and going out for a days ride.
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