This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - Jez
1
« on: 12 August 2015, 06:33:25 pm »
2
« on: 27 July 2015, 10:53:43 pm »
Was that video for real. Foccing hilarious.
3
« on: 21 July 2015, 02:57:34 pm »
Thanks for sharing your experience Billy. Did you grind the pivot pin heads off? What did you replace them with?
5
« on: 20 July 2015, 07:15:14 pm »
Clutch judder doesn't sound good. Could be warped plates or notched basket. The latter is repairable to a degree. Is it better if you wait for 5 seconds with the clutch in before engaging gear? If so then plates could be sticking together.
My gearbox is pretty clunky. I read on here to overfill the oil slightly. This I did which improved things but still noisy.
6
« on: 20 July 2015, 07:10:36 pm »
Thanks for the reassurance. I now know I have not missed an opportunity to actually free them up.
7
« on: 17 July 2015, 08:07:26 pm »
Stewie, you asked a question & have received an excellent, informative response.
Why not a response
Crikey. Give the guy a chance. I don't switch on my computer every day either.
8
« on: 17 July 2015, 07:55:24 pm »
I keep the angled extension under the seat which I pull out when I want to check the pressures or inflate.
Don't they let out air when you screw and unscrew them? S'wot happened to me.
9
« on: 16 July 2015, 01:00:43 pm »
Have used them but they, came loose, leaked and were heavy for balancing. Now I use an angled digital pressure gauge from Halfords. Tadaaa 
10
« on: 16 July 2015, 12:58:01 pm »
Nice idea, clanadam, but don't want to increase the height. Chinese 25mm lower pegs arrived today. They look okay but......... the actual bit you rest your foot on is a bit shorter. Also the way they are made means that the pivot part actually moves them outward and raises them slightly so they end up about 10-15mm drop only. On top of this it looks like being necessary to grind the heads off the pivot pins to remove the standard pegs (should've checked this before). Don't think I'll bother. 
11
« on: 16 July 2015, 12:48:51 pm »
Still stuck fast so have now given up. I want to ride it now instead of look at it with it's forks off. The feel has been improved massively by changing the fork oil to 10W with 145mm air gap. Also tyre pressures 34/39 and dropped the yokes by 10mm. Snetterton again on Monday week wahay 
12
« on: 24 June 2015, 08:00:43 pm »
Yeah, you can do that cos your name's Smith. Mine isn't 
13
« on: 23 June 2015, 05:39:30 pm »
Agree about the varied quality of Chinese stuff. The rad in your pics looks quite thin in places. It is tempting to buy second hand parts from America but a friend of mine recently got stung £46 duty for a pair of fork springs. Unlucky I guess.
14
« on: 22 June 2015, 02:34:57 pm »
I looked at the FZ10A site and there is indeed mention of Buell pegs which lower and move back too. It does seem to be necessary to drill out the mounting boss and grind the hangers to accept gear pedal movement.
This seems too much faffing for me, and is one way as Luke said, so I think I may go down the chinese route from Ebay. These pegs seem to get a mixed reaction as some say they are great and others report sag (which can be corrected, apparently). They also lead to the brake pedal being too high, which I anticipated. Two ways around this seem to be to cut a vee and bend and weld the pedal or enlarge the holes which mount the master cylinder, which is the path I expect I will take.
I would still like to hear about ground clearance.......
15
« on: 21 June 2015, 07:47:56 pm »
I fitted the 20mm rotating one's this set up maxed out the light switch a get a little more relief on my knees i put a littlemore in my seat i may look at adjustable rearsets
Interesting. What I did measure today is that the brake pedal, for me, will only drop another 20mm or so. Shame as I was looking at 30mm drop.
16
« on: 21 June 2015, 07:45:39 pm »
I too would be interested in the knee bend problem as I am at present looking into getting a set of lower pegs, once, that is, I have fixed the bloody chain adjuster.
Where do you plan on getting yours from, Jez and will you go for the rotating adjustable ones or simple 30mm lower ones?
Tommo
Quite simply, Tommo, I don't know. Haven't researched yet until I figure out if it's worth it. A tight arse like me might go for some cheapies in black ally from China (£30 as opposed to £89.99 from M&P or £107 from Busters). As I only need to drop them I don't mind if they're adjustable or not. I don't know if adjustable ones come loose and flap about or whether 'rigid' ones fold up or stay in place. Sorry if that wasn't very helpful.
17
« on: 21 June 2015, 05:41:27 pm »
I am considering fitting slightly lowered footrests so as to relieve the pain from my onesie rucking up at the backs of my knees.
Does anyone have experience of lowered pegs? Given that they only lower by 30mm or so do they actually help straighten the knees at all? Do they interfere with ground clearance?
18
« on: 21 June 2015, 05:25:54 pm »
Since reversing the forks I have gone one stage further and removed them completely. They have spent the last five days or so lying on the bench with PlusGas regularly sprayed onto the adjusters. It has got to the point where the PlusGas soaks into one of the adjusters but not the other. I have tried waking them up with a sharp tap. I used a paint stripper heat gun to try to loosen the aluminium surrounds. Today I even tried using in impact driver, all to no avail. I am on the point of giving up  . Before I do give up for good I would like to get a feel of how realistic it might be that these bastards will ever move again. I am going to start a poll. Please will people let me know whether or not you were successful in freeing up your adjusters.
19
« on: 18 June 2015, 10:20:45 pm »
I saw that one. Yuck  . Luke has one on eBay at the mo under the name Devilsthou. There is a decent one in Florida £108 or so delivered. Also one in Italy, slight dink £90 or so. I am not competing right now. My attention has turned to adjustable foot rests. Good luck mate.
20
« on: 18 June 2015, 09:48:00 pm »
Thanks for the heads up, AyJay. As I have now repaired mine I will keep it for now but keep my eyes open too. Used ones do come up from time to time.
21
« on: 18 June 2015, 07:10:37 pm »
Interesting  . PM sent.
22
« on: 18 June 2015, 06:07:44 pm »
I fitted the guard today with the stainless cable ties and it seems to have worked. No ideal but gets me out of trouble. I looked for replacement radiators and pattern ones are about £100 on Ebay and thieves breakers are asking £150 for minging examples with equally minging fans.
Methinks I will stick with what I have untill I need a pattern one. Thanks again, pilninggas, for a great and cheap tip.
23
« on: 18 June 2015, 06:00:19 pm »
I decided to have a go without any special tools and Yaaaay it is actually easy  . I used two nuts locked together to hold the damper rod once the cap was off. Fork oil changed. Snorted .
24
« on: 12 June 2015, 11:04:11 am »
And bolts, after putting new forks in and putting everything back together I seem to be missing two bolts from the back of the front mudguard 
I've looked everywhere and can't find them. For anyone know what size bolt I can use as a replacement? Hopefully attached pic comes out
You've probably sorted it by now but mine are M6 x 1.0 thread pitch by 35mm long. Hth.
25
« on: 12 June 2015, 10:59:59 am »
I have never tried it on a fazer, but hammering a broom handle into the damper rod usually allows you to stop it from turning enough to loosen it 
Thanks Mick but I meant the tool that looks like a thin spanner that allows the adjuster cap to be removed from the top. Sorry if I was not clear.
|
Show Posts