thank you , thats brilliant, nice easy steps to follow 

hi there , i have a 2001 fzs600.  this fuel gauge has played up before but was cured simply by disconnecting fuel reader connection block spraying wD 40 into it and ridding the furring ( ver de gris ) off the connections and it was working perfectly again.  this time possibly coincidentally as a result of needing to temporarily disconnect the battery to do  a different job entirely , found the fuel gauge which worked before was now not working properly , that is to say not working as it should !  i have checked for the same issue as first time , all clean still and no reason to suspect similar reason as before .
the tank is about 70% full yet the fuel gauge will slowly climb up to the first mark above empty and no more , the needle drops back where it should  when ign off, so it is operating but not normally ( if were allowed to use such a word these days  [size=78%])    [/size]

what could be the reasons and solutions ? how would i verify the faulty items ?

in the interim two questions,

although the gauge wont go any higher than first mark , would it react normally when fuel is lower than where its reading right now?

does the fuel warning light depend on working fuel gauge?  is it linked or independent to the fuel gauge , in other words can i rely on the fuel warning light despite faulty gauge ?

just thought of a third question now , when fuel warning light does come on , how much fuel do you have left ?  obviously fuel up immediately but what does the fuel warning light represent in mileage terms ?


thanks anyone who responds   

What type of bolt are you going to use, someone on here did it also sometime having seen my fix and went with out the circlip, but for some reason the bolt head sheared. He didn't say if it was an normal or high tensile bolt he used or if it was over tightened.

we used a standard allen head 8mm M8 bolt to secure , see photo , it doesnt need to be anything special , its merely preventing side float, kind of belt and braces , new nut torqued up just fine in the end 70nm , could have gone tighter but chose to stop , thread lock on , then this bolt thread lock and tight , SHOULD  be the end of the matter, cant see how it can happen again now .

after loosing two sprocket nuts , the original oem and recently the thicker nut , my brother who is a good engineer/ mechanic came up with this.  it IS possible to drill into the end of the output shaft and tap a thread , in our case an  8 mm allen head bolt to hold a washer to prevent further loss of sprocket nuts , along with obligatory thread lock .  have to say it wasnt easy drilling into the case hardened shaft deep enough to take a thread , lots of patience not to go too deep in one go it is resistant to drilling and tapping but with careful application and patience it can be done . took most of the day to accomplish and its possible for the nut still to work loose but now it sits tight against the washer now , so cannot come off again.

so they changed nothing output shaft wise between mk1 &2 then ?

yes mines the fzs600 box eye 2001, saw a you tube video on the later 2003 variant , he removed the tank but wasnt sure if the set up was identical to mine , i know what you mean now by the flexi cover and it would be made awkward leaving the tank on   


thanks everyone

first thing to state this is not on my fazer but on my triumph bonneville but im sure you will offer your kind help whatever bike it is .


so i was intending to change brake pads on the rear today , got as far as breaking bolts before removing the caliper has two brake pins with threaded heads then shank so the threads are immediately after the pin head and part of the pin head, it sits flush (fully in ) with the caliper casting, its rounded to buggery now and i need a way to get it out. as it sits flush with the casting these is no access to any part of the pin head, its a 5mm allen head and not a lot of meat to the head beyond the allen head insert itself . so it not a good scenario , not protruding , not a lot of metal around the head and seized tight and rounded to buggery.


stating the obvious its the lower  in the pic , the other came out going back in for now copper greased etc
any help?   

cheers guys , ill give that a go first , see if it cures it .  thank

The bottle has a window strip at the back to see the level?

yes it does have a window,  and it works perfectly when the bottle hasn't been inverted , which of course you have to do to put the stuff in, its full of cloudy crap that intentionally fills the puncture hole  but it also means once its stirred up ( inverted ) you cannot see , in real time ,how much you are putting in, you have to keep taking the bottle off , letting it settle 5 mins or so , see if your close ,  under , over and you need to do this multiple times otherwise as you have said yourself putting too much in send the wheel out of balance, kind of begs the question of how you managed to put too much in then if the viewing window is any good ? ,  it is, IF you put it in a little at a time ,then remove then let it settle so the window gives accuracy.[/size][size=78%] [/size]
[/size]it states exactly how much to put ,in per tyre, on the bottle.[size=78%]

[/size]you put too much in once[size=78%]

[/size]i put too little in [size=78%]

[/size]what i have done though, is successfully topped mine up by , leaving the valve at 12 o clock overnight , then i let the air out as slow as possible and actually lost no goop at all  in the process , and then ,this time, with small fills , taking time to let it settle , so i could read the window between small fills put in the correct amount now ![size=78%]

yes Darrsi , ive decided to leave it with 1/3 in now because as you have experienced and i have read other experiences of too much in sending the tyre off balance.


I think it would be difficult to quantify what amount came out under pressure and therefore either miscalculating the amount to put in again, either way.  so its
best left alone now. if i ever used this again i know now that you really need to take time over the fill in the first place when you can really take your time with this , no need to rush it, be prepared to take the bottle on and off allow 10 mins to settle in between so you can more accurately determine how much youve actually put in. it looks when youre doing it youve put shit loads in , infact i thought whoa better stop there i might have over done it.  so you live and learn i know better for next time .   

this is one of those times you kind of know the answer but someone may have tried , so im going to ask anyway.


yesterday i thought id give this tyre sealant goop  a go.   the trouble with the product i found is that although the bottle of 500mls is marked you only need 250ml per tyre.  when the bottle has had time to settle the markings v product are clear to see, once you invert the bottle to use it , its as cloudy as mud and you cant be sure how much youve put in , even taking the bottle off to put the right way round doesnt help unless ( i know now ) you leave it a good 10 mins to settle and then you can see product V markings again.  so net result is i thought  oh ive probably but a bit more than  half in, valve back in and re pressurized the tyre and took it for a spin , only to find once back the product had settled to show i hadnt put nearly enough in.


in theory thats it , your fooked ! as you  cannot add more logic says attempting too will clog up the valve as if it were a leak etc and i dont know what chemically happens to the mix if you attempt it ?.


it might be possible to slowly let the air back out holding a towel over the valve ( be messy !)  replace the valve core with a new one and then top up with more product or the balance of expelled plus what didnt go in first time.


anyone done this successfully ?

ah thats brilliant! makes sense less right angles less places for air to get trapped , thanks for that 

so i have heard that short runs or static runs ( ticking over not riding )  are bad for the bike due to condensation issues as the bike doesnt get properly hot or hot enough.
wanting to learn more about this, at what point does the condensation occur ?  heating up or cooling down or both.
does going for a long run eradicate this condensation or minimize it ?
so i was thinking that if it occurs at a certain temp range at some point even after a very long run it will cool back down at some point to that problem temp range so wont that create condensation?  long run or short run either way?
or is it created ONLY on warm up not cooling back down, and gets eradicated by increased temperature that too short a run doesnt give you ?


how long a run is enough of a run , and do we worry about this on a daily basis on our short commutes to work and back in our cars ? how many short journeys are made daily in cars ?


anyone have any expertise on offer in this area .  just an interesting topic id like more information on