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Topics - butthead
1
« on: 06 April 2024, 05:19:35 pm »
hi there , i have a 2001 fzs600. this fuel gauge has played up before but was cured simply by disconnecting fuel reader connection block spraying wD 40 into it and ridding the furring ( ver de gris ) off the connections and it was working perfectly again. this time possibly coincidentally as a result of needing to temporarily disconnect the battery to do a different job entirely , found the fuel gauge which worked before was now not working properly , that is to say not working as it should ! i have checked for the same issue as first time , all clean still and no reason to suspect similar reason as before . the tank is about 70% full yet the fuel gauge will slowly climb up to the first mark above empty and no more , the needle drops back where it should when ign off, so it is operating but not normally ( if were allowed to use such a word these days  [size=78%]) [/size] what could be the reasons and solutions ? how would i verify the faulty items ?in the interim two questions,although the gauge wont go any higher than first mark , would it react normally when fuel is lower than where its reading right now?does the fuel warning light depend on working fuel gauge? is it linked or independent to the fuel gauge , in other words can i rely on the fuel warning light despite faulty gauge ?just thought of a third question now , when fuel warning light does come on , how much fuel do you have left ? obviously fuel up immediately but what does the fuel warning light represent in mileage terms ? thanks anyone who responds
2
« on: 27 November 2022, 03:59:47 pm »
after loosing two sprocket nuts , the original oem and recently the thicker nut , my brother who is a good engineer/ mechanic came up with this. it IS possible to drill into the end of the output shaft and tap a thread , in our case an 8 mm allen head bolt to hold a washer to prevent further loss of sprocket nuts , along with obligatory thread lock . have to say it wasnt easy drilling into the case hardened shaft deep enough to take a thread , lots of patience not to go too deep in one go it is resistant to drilling and tapping but with careful application and patience it can be done . took most of the day to accomplish and its possible for the nut still to work loose but now it sits tight against the washer now , so cannot come off again.
3
« on: 03 November 2022, 05:36:03 pm »
hi guys as the title asks , we know the mk1 has the drive sprocket issue or rather the drive shaft IS the issue, was this rectified by mk 2 foxeye or did this continue into this bike too ?
another question are the boxeye and foxeye seat the same ? fundamentally i think one was thicker ? but would the boxeye seat fit on the foxeye frame ? thank you.
4
« on: 28 February 2022, 11:18:19 am »
Hi all, the haynes manual says to remove the fuel tank in the process of changing the air filter , do you have to completely remove it ? or if you lift up the tank on its rear hinge and support it as upright as possible can you change filter without complete removal ?
as a secondary question is there any noticeable difference to say K&N over OEM filters apart from money ?
5
« on: 10 April 2021, 04:56:07 pm »
first thing to state this is not on my fazer but on my triumph bonneville but im sure you will offer your kind help whatever bike it is .
so i was intending to change brake pads on the rear today , got as far as breaking bolts before removing the caliper has two brake pins with threaded heads then shank so the threads are immediately after the pin head and part of the pin head, it sits flush (fully in ) with the caliper casting, its rounded to buggery now and i need a way to get it out. as it sits flush with the casting these is no access to any part of the pin head, its a 5mm allen head and not a lot of meat to the head beyond the allen head insert itself . so it not a good scenario , not protruding , not a lot of metal around the head and seized tight and rounded to buggery.
stating the obvious its the lower in the pic , the other came out going back in for now copper greased etc
any help?
6
« on: 01 April 2021, 09:24:00 am »
my fuel guage is not reading correctly only just happened last ride , filled up to the brim yet the fuel gauge only read half way, after about 100 miles it then read near empty then orange fuel warning light came on , so im possibly thinking sender unit faulty ?
anyone had this issue before ?
also if it is sender unit where is that located , underside of the tank i guess ?
TIA
7
« on: 16 March 2021, 12:36:34 pm »
this is one of those times you kind of know the answer but someone may have tried , so im going to ask anyway.
yesterday i thought id give this tyre sealant goop a go. the trouble with the product i found is that although the bottle of 500mls is marked you only need 250ml per tyre. when the bottle has had time to settle the markings v product are clear to see, once you invert the bottle to use it , its as cloudy as mud and you cant be sure how much youve put in , even taking the bottle off to put the right way round doesnt help unless ( i know now ) you leave it a good 10 mins to settle and then you can see product V markings again. so net result is i thought oh ive probably but a bit more than half in, valve back in and re pressurized the tyre and took it for a spin , only to find once back the product had settled to show i hadnt put nearly enough in.
in theory thats it , your fooked ! as you cannot add more logic says attempting too will clog up the valve as if it were a leak etc and i dont know what chemically happens to the mix if you attempt it ?.
it might be possible to slowly let the air back out holding a towel over the valve ( be messy !) replace the valve core with a new one and then top up with more product or the balance of expelled plus what didnt go in first time.
anyone done this successfully ?
8
« on: 26 February 2021, 04:50:55 pm »
so i have heard that short runs or static runs ( ticking over not riding ) are bad for the bike due to condensation issues as the bike doesnt get properly hot or hot enough.
wanting to learn more about this, at what point does the condensation occur ? heating up or cooling down or both.
does going for a long run eradicate this condensation or minimize it ?
so i was thinking that if it occurs at a certain temp range at some point even after a very long run it will cool back down at some point to that problem temp range so wont that create condensation? long run or short run either way?
or is it created ONLY on warm up not cooling back down, and gets eradicated by increased temperature that too short a run doesnt give you ?
how long a run is enough of a run , and do we worry about this on a daily basis on our short commutes to work and back in our cars ? how many short journeys are made daily in cars ?
anyone have any expertise on offer in this area . just an interesting topic id like more information on
9
« on: 24 February 2021, 09:55:52 am »
Hi Guys, so im trying to pin down the colour of my fz6 S2, 2009 plate , im pretty sure its 'dull purplish blue' but i cant find a colour code beyond on a white sticker , but i think the code listed under the seat 4S8F -050, refers to the silver chasis colour not the bike colour itself, i cant see another sticker , can anyone help with either the code and where to find it and any clues to the colour description
10
« on: 23 February 2021, 05:45:07 pm »
Hi all ,
managed to drop the bike in the garage today just moving it around , clumbsy f*** so it sheared off the mirror on the swivel pin adjuster casting. do you have to take the entire plastic instrument panel surround off to access the mirror bolts? or if you undo half as in the side you need to access, will the plastic give enough to get to the mirror bolts , anyone tried ?
TIA
11
« on: 23 February 2021, 05:38:54 pm »
i did a brake fluid flush today , i had noticed the lever was a bit too spongy in feel and although the brakes seem to work fine i put the spongy feel down to old fluid but after changing the fluid and been careful to watch for any air , couldnt say there was any improvement in how the lever felt, i was hoping it was less spongy and less movement in it. strangely though i noticed that my 09 fz6 s2 is pretty similar in feel to my fzs, i also have a triumph Bonneville and that lever is much harder feel and short movement before you cant move the lever anymore.
so im wondering if both my fz6 and fzs600 have a fairly similar feel to the brake lever , if that is a ' fazer thing' ?
obviously we cant ride atm , but would you say your fazer brake lever has more movement and squashy feel to it , or is it short movement and solid after ?
could be air , though i couldnt see that in the pipe ?
12
« on: 31 January 2021, 04:27:30 pm »
dont want to annoy anyone asking a topic thats probably been done to death before etc, cant see a specific sticky on fzs600 brake pads but if there is, please give me a link to it, im in the market for new pads all round so want to get feedback about best pads etc .
TIA
13
« on: 24 January 2021, 10:26:41 am »
Hi, i want to change my front and rear brake fluid , on the front ,as the bike has a T piece feeding the two front discs is there an order that you need to flush one side first ,before the other
? if so which side, orientated as if you were sat on the bike.
TIA
14
« on: 13 January 2021, 04:14:16 pm »
most of us use bikes less during the winter and topically during the several lockdowns these past 12 months. lets start by saying i dont need my bikes (3) for anything other than pleasure , however even during the long winter , I pick a dry day and will give them a 30min ride to maintain usage year round during dec to march maybe once every 4 weeks until spring and from April - November use them all regularly anyway.
however there might be times , like now where you just cannot use them , unless it genuinely is your only form of transport, its feasible as we have seen before now than a lockdown can be 3 months or even more.
so how to maintain them for a period of lay off , where as in this instance , its pretty much illegal, apart from if it was your only form of transport.
do you just lay them up accept the situation and wait it out, or do you start them up every now and then ? I heard that running them up for short periods like 5-10 mins can cause condensation in the header pipes etc. is it ok to run them stationary for longer amounts of time until the cooling fan comes on , apart from the I.C.E nothing else moves and the oil pump and charging system are on a limited variance of rpm, and ideally you'd want the oil temp to get fully up to temp. then there's the brake calipers that need movement etc , how to achieve maintenance during a dormant period of time where the bike can not be ridden as designed to be used ?
a lot of bikes in showrooms get unridden until sold for many months sometimes a year , i think newish bikes cope better with that situation but older bikes i believe need to be ridden at least once a months to keep everything in shape.
what do you guys do , particularly in this lockdown when we cannot ride .
15
« on: 11 January 2021, 09:40:12 am »
hi i ve done a quick search to see if this topic has been covered before , couldn't see a match so forgive me if its been covered before ?
i have a cable operated clutch with the original levers, i struggle with winter gloves to grab the clutch lever in particular so some span adjusters would be useful. however with cable operated clutch the lever length is likely to be important to gain the leverage to operate the clutch properly?
its almost universal that span adjusters are for hydraulic clutches and are invariably shorter than OEM .
has anyone used shorter span adjusters and found they are either a problem or perhaps not ?
can anyone offer advice to the best span adjuster levers to resolve my issue ? are there any full length adjustable levers you know of ?
just to confirm its a 2001 fzs600.
TIA
16
« on: 18 August 2020, 10:02:59 am »
Hi all, i wanted to put some wider bars on my bike, i have allready put bar risers 1 up and 1 inch back on with std bars but want to fit some wider bars. i like the combined up and back and now wider.
my brother gave me some old wider bars to try and it all fits and feels good, exept the master cyclinder crashes in to the fairing preventing full lock. its a big old master block on the FZS and i thought id get full lock with a smaller master particularly one that has a remote reservoir hosed to the lever assy ( as my triumph does ) then id have far more mounting flexibility. however any replacement has to deliver same fluid displacement etc, so has anyone used a different master cyl lever on the fzs than the std one ? .
hoping to find something from a breaker but first need to find something with similar fluid pushing performance and with a small or remote master reservoir.
any thoughts ?
TIA
17
« on: 18 June 2020, 10:12:32 am »
So I thought id share my experience with you as an example of necessity is the mother of invention or in truth borne out of a cock up on my part.
I have a fzs600 2001 its really my winter hack bike , done a few oil changes but on my last one just over a year back I messed up and overtightened the sump plug, resulting in some stripped threads as it weeps but no more than weeps oil past the threads, were talking 3-4 teaspoons over 10-14 days so perfectly livaeble with for a winter hack. I had the idea of helicoil but you cant helicoil in situ and if you are taking the sump pan off may as well buy a second hand sump pan with plug from a breaker . So that was my origional option.
Trouble is ,as you know, you cant take the sump off without removing the exhaust, ok if your header bolts are going to play ball.
Mine certainly werent.
Mine had clearly been off once before at least and fought back in the process duly snapping off as was evident by the shortened stumps and motley collection of ugly nuts and studs, so I was not keen to mess with that !
So how else can you do an oil change without draining ?
Well if you take off the cluch cover , underneath the clutch drum are two slots about 9 mm slots around 20mm long, these allow fresh oil put in to drain back into the sump.
If you can lean the bike over the opposite way to the side stand and about the same lean as on the side stand all the oil comes to that side of the bike.
I got a 12v syphon pump for oil and used 8 mm clear pipe and using the two slots fed the pipe into the sump and moved it around as much as you can and syphoned 3.5 litres of old oil out the same as the manual says to put in following oil & filter change , of cousre I changed the filter too.
Its a bit of a pfaff setting the bike up to do it but its a once a year job and just as sucesful as traditional drain , I got the same qty of oil out as I would have, got to live with the origional sump weep but a weep is all it is.
Just thought id show how I overcame my initial idiocy with the origional overtightening.
Taking off the exhaust to change sump pan would have proded the “satan of stud bolts” im certain to shear opening the worse of all jobs to tackle.with rusty weak already stumps of header bolts !
Leave well alone !
18
« on: 14 May 2020, 11:17:24 am »
 so does anyone happen to know the diameter or dimensions of the drain slot circled in red in this photo please ?
19
« on: 04 May 2020, 10:39:26 am »
Hi i have the 2009 S2 FZ6.
im tidying up some bubbling in the silver painted fork lowers, fortunatley the area thats bubbling sits in between two natural narrowing areas of the forks, giving me a natural line to paint up to.
most people on fork lowers tend to go with hammerite soft paint, ideal for older fzs for example , but on the fz6 the paint isnt smooth its a bit rougher sparklier finish, has anyone found a sliver that is a decent match in both closeness of the silver colour and the style of none smooth finish?
TIA
20
« on: 22 September 2019, 12:21:08 pm »
just had my mot , passed but with advisory on front wheel bearings . guy said to avoid cheap wheel kits as they will not last. suggested SKF or FAG bearings, but on ebay i cant see any of those specific makes theres mostly NTN that seem cheap on price and kind of what he said to avoid, theres some CHALLENGE kits £30 and various more pricey kits from USA germany.
as SKF and FAG dont sell directly any advice on good bearing kit makes and where anyone has got them from before? any help appreciated
TIA
21
« on: 15 September 2019, 04:15:39 pm »
i need to change my sump pan on my 51 plate fzs, seen one at a breakers online and it came off a 2000 plated fzs, is there any difference in sump pans between 2000 and 2001? i doubt it but im no expert? TIA
22
« on: 02 August 2019, 05:34:07 pm »
id like to sit a bit more upright, thinking about bar risers , up &back, anyone got them on, how much can you go up ? 1 inch up and same back or is there not enough slack in cabling etc ?
23
« on: 14 April 2019, 07:14:55 am »
hi guys just got my s2 recently , just wondered if you really need a oil filter tool for removal or are they generally hand tight ? the old fzs was hand tight so i havent got a tool but if its difficult to get good access hands on to the s2 filter and if one is needed? if so ill get one prior to oil & filter change
24
« on: 30 March 2019, 08:50:30 pm »
does anyone know if its possible to remove the sump pan in situ without taking the engine out? obviously the exhaust has to come off , but can the pan be removed without engine out ?
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