Bike too upright when side stand is down = Lowered maybe?

[No]

TTSIA really.


When i use the side stand, it is standing precariously upright so i tend to lean it against a wall in gear at home or when i pop in the local shops.


My only thought is perhaps it has been lowered to cause this. It does have a centre stand but I'd prefer to keep that for maintenance etc only.


IS there a way i can tell if it has been lowered? I daren't bend the side stand to make it stand at a better angle as that's madness.


Pics of back end & side:

[agricola]

Looks like its been lowered to me. Theres about 2 inches of fork sticking through the top yoke, so id guess that the rear has been dropped the same. You could revert back to stock height, im sure someone on here must have the length of the links reqd for the rear

[darrsi]

You need to measure one of the dog bones.
Standard measurement is 140mm from centre hole to centre hole.


Shorter length dog bones raise the bike, and longer ones will lower it.
We're talking gradients of about 10mm so be careful when measuring.
If it has been lowered I would guess it's a nightmare using the centre stand?

[darrsi]

Looks like its been lowered to me. Theres about 2 inches of fork sticking through the top yoke, so id guess that the rear has been dropped the same. You could revert back to stock height, im sure someone on here must have the length of the links reqd for the rear

Well spotted with the forks, it's definitely lower than standard.

[robbo]

It's a wonder the front mudguard hasn't gone through the radiator, under braking .

[Disorderlypunk]

Looks like its been lowered to me. Theres about 2 inches of fork sticking through the top yoke, so id guess that the rear has been dropped the same. You could revert back to stock height, im sure someone on here must have the length of the links reqd for the rear

well spotted - ive been looking at other photos and the swingarm looks like its in the right place to the heelplate
i bet she drops into corners bloody quick if front has been dropped and the rear hasnt due to the reduced rake


also look at the angle of the tank. im gonna say the rear hasnt been lowered

[agricola]

Just to be on the safe side, Id check to make sure the clamping bolts are tight on the top yoke, the forks may have slipped though if they are loose

[No]

Looks like its been lowered to me. Theres about 2 inches of fork sticking through the top yoke, so id guess that the rear has been dropped the same. You could revert back to stock height, im sure someone on here must have the length of the links reqd for the rear

Oh wow didn't even notice the yolks although i wouldn't have known how they come as standard so a massive thank you for pointing that out!


Front is a yes (huge help)


Thank you!

[No]

You need to measure one of the dog bones.
Standard measurement is 140mm from centre hole to centre hole.


Shorter length dog bones raise the bike, and longer ones will lower it.
We're talking gradients of about 10mm so be careful when measuring.
If it has been lowered I would guess it's a nightmare using the centre stand?

Thanks for the measurement! I've yet to try the centre stand but that's a very very good point! I do need to use it later for chain tightening so i shall soon find out.


Again, a massive thanks i now know what to check on the rear.

[No]

It's a wonder the front mudguard hasn't gone through the radiator, under braking .

Funnily enough! you may have inadvertently solved another query.


I have to gently move the bike of the curb/pavement and each time i do there's a big plastic clash from the front mudguard!


This must be it hitting so thanks!

[No]

Just to be on the safe side, Id check to make sure the clamping bolts are tight on the top yoke, the forks may have slipped though if they are loose

That's a terrifying thought i'll do that immediately!


I really should have checked that sooner so thanks

[agricola]

Looks like its been lowered to me. Theres about 2 inches of fork sticking through the top yoke, so id guess that the rear has been dropped the same. You could revert back to stock height, im sure someone on here must have the length of the links reqd for the rear

Oh wow didn't even notice the yolks although i wouldn't have known how they come as standard so a massive thank you for pointing that out!


Front is a yes (huge help)


Thank you!

I believe standard is with the forks set level with the top face of the top clamp

[BBROWN1664]

Looks like its been lowered to me. Theres about 2 inches of fork sticking through the top yoke, so id guess that the rear has been dropped the same. You could revert back to stock height, im sure someone on here must have the length of the links reqd for the rear

It is.


Oh wow didn't even notice the yolks although i wouldn't have known how they come as standard so a massive thank you for pointing that out!


Front is a yes (huge help)


Thank you!

I believe standard is with the forks set level with the top face of the top clamp

[NJD]

Putting the bike on the centre stand and using one of these (with the cups placed on the bottom run of black frame, assisted by perhaps some thin strips of square wood if needed) will help you lift the front of the bike, if needed, to complete the work. I've got both a lift like that and the bike but haven't checked if the thread on the cups are long enough to ensure the ramp touches the frame first, and not the exhaust pipes, when raised.


Or a headstand.


Or if you've got some ratchet straps you can tie them to a strong beam in a garage or a tree and keep the bike raised up that way (putting the strap around the handlebars).


~


As an aside, and encase you don't know (forgive me if you do):


> the rear caliper is from a FZS 1000 (the brake caliper bracket will be slightly modified to make it fit)
> You can get a Torsion bar (the black bar attached to brake caliper bracket) from a Yamaha Thunderace (of better quality and wont rust as much), if ever needed
> custom seat
> aftermarket handlebars
> you're missing the R/H cover that goes over the airbox
> Rear disc looks questionable, but front looks to be EBC?
> Might want to look at that ding in the R/H header pipe


Bikes either had an owner that pumped loads of money into it (rear caliper upgrade, ebc discs, mudguard etc) and then one that ruined it, or one that suffered conflicting upgrade choices and has left you with half decent half project.


I only post this bit as it seems like you've just purchased it and are attempting to figure it out. Parts of it are definitely not standard but fairly easy to work on.

[No]

Putting the bike on the centre stand and using one of these (with the cups placed on the bottom run of black frame, assisted by perhaps some thin strips of square wood if needed) will help you lift the front of the bike, if needed, to complete the work. I've got both a lift like that and the bike but haven't checked if the thread on the cups are long enough to ensure the ramp touches the frame first, and not the exhaust pipes, when raised.


Or a headstand.


Or if you've got some ratchet straps you can tie them to a strong beam in a garage or a tree and keep the bike raised up that way (putting the strap around the handlebars).


~


As an aside, and encase you don't know (forgive me if you do):


> the rear caliper is from a FZS 1000 (the brake caliper bracket will be slightly modified to make it fit)
> You can get a Torsion bar (the black bar attached to brake caliper bracket) from a Yamaha Thunderace (of better quality and wont rust as much), if ever needed
> custom seat
> aftermarket handlebars
> you're missing the R/H cover that goes over the airbox
> Rear disc looks questionable, but front looks to be EBC?
> Might want to look at that ding in the R/H header pipe


Bikes either had an owner that pumped loads of money into it (rear caliper upgrade, ebc discs, mudguard etc) and then one that ruined it, or one that suffered conflicting upgrade choices and has left you with half decent half project.


I only post this bit as it seems like you've just purchased it and are attempting to figure it out. Parts of it are definitely not standard but fairly easy to work on.

Thank you for all this info! That is above and beyond. I had no idea other than the seat.


 It does have a Fastline.co.uk decal on the windscreen & the previous owner was 64 years old so I imagine minimal rectifying of unwanted upgrades. He told me that the owner before him did extensive work for a magazine.


I’ve yet to clean it, very very dusty but certainly needs a love. I shall look into the front disc but I am clueless.


Didn’t notice the air ox cover either.


It was what I presumed was cheap and had to be local to me as I only had 1k. It has 30k miles (£950) with full MOT.


Two new tyres en route but has a very slack chain which I’ll do at the same time.


I had an FZR 600 over a decade ago & love this fast in comparison.


Thank you again for the massive wealth of info. I now know where to look.


EDIT the front disc is a minth. You may have just saved my life. It’s terrible.

[No]

The more I read the more I feel I should delete the word cheap.


Everything was £1500+ and 200+ miles away from the south west.


This was local & needed a bike as my car insurance was a joke.


It feels good to ride & I don’t mind the tinkering during lockdown.


I still love it

[FILZ6]

MINTH on the front disc is for “ minimum thickness” 
It is not a manufacturers name.

[NJD]

For £950 you've got a bargain, to be honest. The rear caliper alone people sell on eBay for £80-120. You could probably revert a lot of it to standard if you ever sell and flog the additional add-ons on eBay and end up making a profit, but that's way down the line.


I wouldn't overthink the front discs. EBC are a good brand. I only mention the rear disc as it looks reminiscent of those cheap eBay wavy discs people sell, but an EBC one is about £80 (and whatever it would cost to balance the wheel afterwards, if shops do that after fitting a disc) so providing it works I wouldn't overly worry for now.


You're probably saying the front discs are poor because the balance of the bike is so out. As above I'd sort out, or get a shop to, your front fork issue and then go from there in regards to what bits you want to do. You'll probably find handling much improved afterwards, but again I really wouldn't ride it like that. Who knows it may even have been lowered to make the handlebars work, so be prepared to revert it to standard at some cost if needed.


Parts list source (eBay has a wide range of second hand parts for not very much updated basically every day):


https://yambits.co.uk/
https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_600_fazer/98-99
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/
https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/


Keep updated with project. 

[No]

MINTH on the front disc is for “ minimum thickness” 
It is not a manufacturers name.

Omg that’s embarrassing. I only named it as such as I searched that phrase on eBay and someone has listed a Minth disc for a tenner so my stomach dropped.


It is indeed an edc or something I believe

[No]

For £950 you've got a bargain, to be honest. The rear caliper alone people sell on eBay for £80-120. You could probably revert a lot of it to standard if you ever sell and flog the additional add-ons on eBay and end up making a profit, but that's way down the line.


I wouldn't overthink the front discs. EBC are a good brand. I only mention the rear disc as it looks reminiscent of those cheap eBay wavy discs people sell, but an EBC one is about £80 (and whatever it would cost to balance the wheel afterwards, if shops do that after fitting a disc) so providing it works I wouldn't overly worry for now.


You're probably saying the front discs are poor because the balance of the bike is so out. As above I'd sort out, or get a shop to, your front fork issue and then go from there in regards to what bits you want to do. You'll probably find handling much improved afterwards, but again I really wouldn't ride it like that. Who knows it may even have been lowered to make the handlebars work, so be prepared to revert it to standard at some cost if needed.


Parts list source (eBay has a wide range of second hand parts for not very much updated basically every day):


https://yambits.co.uk/
https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_600_fazer/98-99
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/
https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/


Keep updated with project. 

Thank you so much for the links and I will. I don’t imagine I’ll sell it unless someone really really wants it.

I asked [/size][size=78%]the guy I got it off and he said he only lowered the front as he had arthritis. The back still looks a tad low but it is parked on a hill in that photo. [/size]
[/size]
[/size]I’ll know a bit more when my tyres arrive tomorrow but I only managed to get a set called Diablos as they were half price (DemonTweeks)[size=78%]

[/size]Thanks again I truly appreciate the input.[size=78%]

[NJD]

Once the fronts done the back is less of a hassle, but you wont know how it rides until then.


You can use the C-Spanner in the tool-kit to adjust, as seen here:





The bigger the gap the harder the suspension and the more load it will take, and vice versa the lower you go (less load, less gap because less travel required).


Standing behind the bike and using both hands to push down on the grab rail (with bike on side stand) will give you a good idea of where you are currently in regards to how soft or hard it is, but you need you and your most used load (chains, locks etc if commuting if your most done thing) to get a true setting. Its a try and adjust kind of thing.


edit


owners manual


https://www.manualslib.com/manual/611242/Yamaha-Fazer-Fzs600.html


service manual


https://www.manualslib.com/manual/923683/Yamaha-Fzs600-98.html


there is a download section on this forum for all the manuals if you'd prefer that, worth a look as it has more downloads / info and updated diagrams.

[BBROWN1664]

NJD - That does not lower the back end, just adjusts how much the spring is pre-loaded

[No]

Once the fronts done the back is less of a hassle, but you wont know how it rides until then.


You can use the C-Spanner in the tool-kit to adjust, as seen here:





The bigger the gap the harder the suspension and the more load it will take, and vice versa the lower you go (less load, less gap because less travel required).


Standing behind the bike and using both hands to push down on the grab rail (with bike on side stand) will give you a good idea of where you are currently in regards to how soft or hard it is, but you need you and your most used load (chains, locks etc if commuting if your most done thing) to get a true setting. Its a try and adjust kind of thing.


edit


owners manual


https://www.manualslib.com/manual/611242/Yamaha-Fazer-Fzs600.html


service manual


https://www.manualslib.com/manual/923683/Yamaha-Fzs600-98.html


there is a download section on this forum for all the manuals if you'd prefer that, worth a look as it has more downloads / info and updated diagrams.

Thank you & forgive my previous message format, mobile phones are terrible especially a tiny SE.


I think I understand the front forks. Undoing the top & bottom fork clamps either side, moving forks up or down & then retightening. I may just take it to a garage on Monday to avoid any mishaps considering it involves a vital thing like that.


It is currently my only transport but luckily only need to pop a mile or 2 to the shops once or maybe twice a day & my first bike in well over a decade so it’s hard to compare how it should ride. It feels by no means dangerous & actually quite smooth but I would consider myself a very bland rider & certainly won’t be significant speeds.


Thanks again for the links & advice. I know it’s the preload page but I’ve downloaded & will read through so appreciate the link nonetheless & shall update after the weekend

[Disorderlypunk]

what area are you based in, there might be someone nearby who can offer you a hand
its a two person job unless you have a basic bike lift or something heavy to sit on the back of the bike while its on the center stand
(never underestimate a bag of building sand )

clamp bolt torque settings are 30nm/22ft lb

[Gnasher]

Having now made a good study of the pictures, read all your comments etc.  I think it's fair to say your out of your depth a bit here, don't take that the wrong way its not mean as a dig, but an observation based on your questions and answers.

In my opinion you've got a real dog there, it's a typical candidate for being a crash damage and/or insurance write off, unfortunately I'm seeing more and more of these.  It also appears whoever worked on it is a real bodger and scarper, with no idea.  My advice is to get someone who knows what they're doing look over it, it's highly likely there's a lot of hidden issues in there, some could be serious. 

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but I wouldn't recommend you ride it until it's been checked properly.