Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: bikeownerus on 03 August 2018, 07:35:14 pm
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Hi,
I have 'Y' plate FZS 1000 - as previously owned and improved by DevilsYam who I believe is no stranger to this good site.
Anyrate - I'm seeking some advice / guidance please.
Bike was running perfectly. Came out earlier in week, turned ignition key and absolutely nothing, no lights, no clicks or burrs...zilch.
Did a bit of research on this forum and initial feedback seemed to be battery. It was sitting at ~12.2 V unloaded (couldn't load it). I have had it on charge via Optimate and it's now at over 13V (charger still connected) - but still absolutely nothing when I turn the ignition key.
I've checked the fuses - all fine. I also have voltage at the main fuze when the ignition is turned which could suggest the barrel is OK??
I will remove plastic and tank tomorrow to see if there's anything obvious. I will also have a quick look and clean in the kill switch. May try a jump too.
However, my main question is: "does the fact that I get absolutely nothing point to a specific culprit - is there a relay which is the very first thing in the circuit (after the fuze)?".
I'm more than happy to buy a battery - but it doesn't 'feel' like that at the moment although I appreciate these can be digital in their behaviour.
Thanks :)
Doug
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Sounds like something I had a couple of years ago, it turned out to be the the power feed to the ignition switch.
Lift the tank, and trace the wire back from the ignition switch, I have 7 wires 5 go to a white connector, 2 go to a red connector, the red connector had burnt out, just cut the wires and either just join together or put in a new two pin connector.
If you do a search on the American Fazer site there is lot of info about this, also it is on this site. But can’t find it at the moment.
Hope the problem is this as it’s an easy.
Don.
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It's not the battery. With those voltages you would at least get a neutral light. So it's either a connector has got gunged up/corroded/come apart.
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Thanks Don,
It turned out to be exactly that - the power line going into the 2-pin red connector has burned out. You're right too - there's more on this issue on the US site - here's an example should people need to sniff around: http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143486 (http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143486)
I'm sure you are aware, but this has a lot of useful info: http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/technicaltips.shtml (http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/technicaltips.shtml)
I now know what needs doing although have done very little electrically and an nervous to start cutting wires - particularly with there be no slack to play with.
Is it a case of cutting as close to the connector as possible and hoping the new connector is long enough to bridge the gap or do you advise effectively breaking the existing connector to get as close to the blade and plug as possible?
Or …. cleaning it up sufficient to get it running (hopefully) and then driving it to someone who knows what they're doing!
Thanks
Doug
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For note - the American guru 'Eskort' suggests replacing with 30A connectors - I'll see what's out there.
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Doug,
When I did mine, I cut the connector out, cut as close to the connector as possible, but I still added an small length of additional wire, just to make connecting a two pin connector easier.
Don.