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Topics - darrsi
1
« on: 28 August 2023, 01:40:53 pm »
Just a word of caution. When you get your bike modded to pass the ULEZ emissions they tell you to download the TfL Drive app which you can then enter your Reg. Number and it will say "Nothing To Pay -Exempt"
Well, lo and behold, that app has crashed, and sends you in a loop for a software update that doesn't exist. Tried uninstalling and reinstalling but that never worked.
I've seen it myself that my bike is exempt and have the Dyno records, but when I tried on a different website it takes my bike as standard and says It is NOT exempt.
I'm sure it will be okay, but I better not get a fine through the post, because I will not be impressed.
Although my mate just told me all the cameras on the main road near where I live have had the cables cut.
2
« on: 04 March 2023, 10:58:51 am »
Thought I'd ask the question on here about an issue I've had for ages.
Had what sounded to me like a metallic vibration issue going on for a long time, and due to my sensitive hearing it's been sending me nuts. But I always imagined it to be be radiator protector grill so last week I used a metal glue to reinforce the grill with a thin metal rod across the bottom, but the noise was still there the next day.
So I just went up to my mechanic and he said maybe the camchain was playing a different tune, for whatever reason, but I know that chirpy noise from hearing it on my bike before and it doesn't sound the same. I then suggested maybe the water pump, and he said that was also a possibility too?
After getting home from the bike shop I asked a mate if he could have a listen and see if he could fathom it out, and he did pinpoint the noise coming from the camchain tensioner area.
Just to reiterate, this is not the normal cam chain chirpy noise, this is a high pitched vibrating/buzzing metallic sound that only happens when the bike is warmed up.
Remember, I mainly only do short runs to and from work, so the last time I had cam chain noise it almost took a year to move onto the next notch on the tensioner. If it is just between clicks then I can just wait and put up with the irritating noise. And the bike itself is running sweet as a nut.
Anyone else had this vibrating noise before, not including the standard cam chain noise?
3
« on: 12 February 2023, 03:20:59 pm »
Dunno if anyone can advise me on this? I've been looking at side panniers for my bike, but already have the Givi top box plate fitted with the long side arms.
My question is, if I was to buy side panniers would there be a clash with the current bracketry?
I don't want to order them to then find out I have to remove my top box to make them fit. Especially as the ones I want will probably come from Germany.
Anyone have any tips or advice please?
5
« on: 02 October 2022, 01:16:38 pm »
Set of front brake pads for sale to fit FZS600 / FZS1000 / FZ1.
SBS 634HS (2 pairs)
Tried these out on my bike for 6 months (I don't do a lot of mileage) and unfortunately they didn't agree with my after market discs, so I've replaced them with my usual brand that I have always used before.
As you can see they are still in very good condition with minimal wear on them.
£25 delivered for both pairs
PAYPAL only please
Postal service is too messed up at the moment so UK Mainland only
6
« on: 18 September 2022, 03:09:50 pm »
My bike has a Varta 12ah battery on it, although I'm a bit shocked it's 6yrs old, I thought it was more recent than that!
Bike is used at least 5 days a week all year round. I don't trickle charge it, but will give it a manual charge once or twice a year normally when the temperature really drops.
I also have 10w spotlights & heated grips
Battery readings:
Ignition off - 12.77v Ignition on - H/L on - 12.56v Ignition on - H/L and S/L on - 12.50v Ignition on - H/L, S/L & H/G on - 12.30v
Engine on tickover - everything off - 14.37v Engine revved - everything off - 14.38v Engine on tickover - H/L on - 12.40v Engine on tickover - H/L & S/L on - 12.35v Engine on tickover - H/L, S/L & H/G on - 12.24v Engine on tickover - H/G on - 14.26v
Engine revved - H/L on - 14.08v Engine revved - H/L & S/L on 14.07v Engine revved - H/L, S/L & H/G on - 14.01v Engine revved - H/G on - 14.31v
Obviously this is my bike, my battery, etc, but the readings are a good guideline if you suspect any battery issues
7
« on: 06 September 2022, 07:53:08 pm »
I'm after a few new items of clothing, gloves, waterproof jacket, etc, but am fed up with buying online then having to send stuff straight back due to being ill fitting or the like.
I'm in NW London and used to get everything I ever needed from the J&S Superstore near Watford after spending a couple of hours trying loads of clothing on. But that's gone now and was wondering if there were any of the larger type superstores about any more these days?
8
« on: 17 April 2021, 08:15:28 am »
I normally buy SBS Ceramic rear pads for my bike, been using them for a while now, but i'm having trouble sourcing any at the moment.
I have found some decent priced OEM pads though, but can anyone tell me what compound they are as i can't seem to find any info on that either?
I like the Ceramic ones because they're not harsh on the disc at all and nowhere near as dusty as Organic, plus i've used them for years so know what they're all about so would preferably prefer to stay with them, but if the OEM ones aren't known to be harsh on the discs i'll give them a go instead.
9
« on: 16 March 2021, 03:02:10 pm »
I just had a new starter relay turn up and it has a 10amp fuse in it, but "most" photos I see online have 30amp fuses on them. I've not had a chance to look at my old unit yet as I'm a bit busy, but which fuse d'ya think I should use, as my Haynes Manual doesn't actually specify a size?
10
« on: 25 February 2021, 05:28:28 am »
Seen on here many times people asking what to use as a lube for ignition switches (where you put the key to start the bike, for the less informed) and i've finally found a winner. Firstly, don't use graphite (sludge), WD40 (attracts dirt), degreasing spray (dries out), etc, or similar as they can seem like a temporary fix but do more harm than good over the longer term as i found out myself the hard way a few years ago. With added (dirty) rain these can eventually turn to sludge and/or dry out on contacts in the switch causing starting/running issues or just make the turning of the key feel a bit stiff. A few months ago i bought an electrical contact cleaner from Halfords to try as my ignition key was turning a bit stiff in the switch, and it sorted it for a while but i think after some prolonged rainfall it just dried out again. So i tried some stuff we use at work and it has turned out to be perfect for the job. It's still a contact cleaner so it will clean all the shite out of your switch, but it leaves a very fine lubrication as well and you can feel that everything inside moves much more freely when inserting the key. I've deliberately waited a few months to see if it would dry out like the other one but it's still exactly the same so i can safely say it's got the thumbs up from me to use. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Servisol-701-100UK-Super-10/dp/B000KEB6WW/ref=sr_1_1?adgrpid=52930236413&dchild=1&hvadid=259123271461&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9045963&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14600591261769559742&hvtargid=kwd-329849991724&hydadcr=18510_1793628&keywords=servisol+super+10&qid=1614229382&sr=8-1&tag=googhydr-21
11
« on: 21 January 2021, 03:12:55 pm »
Couple of days ago I went to start the bike in pitch darkness very early morning and the starter did nothing. It just flashed up the yellow dash light, which I'm guessing is an engine light, and the red oil light. I hadn't ridden it for a couple of days so pumped the clutch lever in case the clutch plates were sticking and a couple of goes later it started and all was good again, so i just let it go.
As I had today off I gave the battery a charger boost for 5hrs, and then I just changed the oil and filter as well.
Before changing the oil I let the bike tick over for 5mins to warm the oil up a bit before draining it.
When I was all done, I turned the key, and it was dead again, with just those two lights showing.
After about 4 or 5 attempts, and some serious staring, it then sprung to life again?
I let it run for a bit then switched off and on a few times and it was totally fine. As it was an ignition issue I also gave the ignition barrel a good spray with some Contact Cleaner.
Question is, if this happens again and I can't get it going, where should I start looking for faults?
I had issues years ago with ropey starting, and the Contact Cleaner spray worked miracles on the ignition barrel, so I'm hoping it won't happen again, but if it does any ideas why as this specific problem is not something I have encountered before?
12
« on: 13 August 2020, 08:59:34 am »
I was looking for a new Michelin Road 5 rear tyre yesterday, and while searching i stumbled on this must have bargain.
13
« on: 01 February 2020, 03:56:09 pm »
Can anyone point me in the direction of a pair of replacement 600 wing mirrors that have longer stems than OEM ones?
I do still have the OEM ones as back up, but i noticed yesterday that one of my current mirrors is rapidly getting what looks almost like rust spots behind the glass. I bought them years ago but don't recall where from?
14
« on: 12 October 2019, 06:08:34 am »
Admit the truth, or even tell a lifetime story that is either too epic or simply has never been erased from your memory, whether it's yours or someone you know, that still raises a chuckle once brought up or mentioned!
15
« on: 09 June 2019, 10:30:55 am »
Whenever i paste a link to a YouTube video it just disappears once posted. Been doing it for a few days now that i know of.
16
« on: 21 May 2019, 06:22:52 am »
I was attempting to sort out my mum's car insurance last night and was offered a very good price, but then got to the point when it showed the page below saying that a Thatcham Device needed to be fitted before proceeding, which i thought was a bit harsh because it didn't really explain too well what it all entailed.
I'm guessing it's not the Black Box device which is a definite no no, but does anyone know anything about these at all?
Do they charge extra to install or remove, are there limitations like the Black Box, and generally what is it all about?
I've held back on getting any insurance for the moment as it's not due until next month, so any decent info would be appreciated, bearing in mind i don't drive a car so in layman's terms please.
17
« on: 16 May 2019, 08:25:55 pm »
Last years insurance was apparently £184 New quote from them recently was £217 Then i get an email from The Bike Insurer who had my details, quoting me £99 but with £825 excess, for a bike i’ve valued realistically at £1000. The next quote on The Bike Insurer site was £128 with £100 excess.........sorted. But i really don’t get how they get to all these different and random figures.......especially the one for £7,407.99, or £8,296.96 if paid with instalments.
18
« on: 27 January 2019, 01:01:46 am »
Pump the clutch lever 5 or 6 times....then try it, with choke or without. You live and learn!
19
« on: 21 November 2018, 05:55:28 am »
I replaced my clutch cable yesterday as i heard and felt something crack through the lever and thought a metal strand had broken or something similar. But it turned out to be the little plastic sleeve thingy that covers the nipple at the top end of the cable that slots into the lever. With this plastic on, it does fit very snugly, but my question is what the hell is it there for, and could i have just cleaned out the lever of debris, put the cable end back into the lever and readjusted it again at both ends without any problems? I don't see the point in it being there at all? If the end needs to move slightly then make the sleeve out of metal, not thin plastic which i think has been disintegrated by the lithium grease i put on the lever for a smoother action. I've looked at a few photo's on Google and some ends have it and some don't, but i would guess that if they don't have it then the nipple part would have to be bigger to compensate? (wahey) This is the clearest photo i could get, the top end has the yellow plastic part on the left of the photo. The old cable itself seems fine other than the perished plastic part, so i've kept hold of it as a spare for now. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-Fazer-98-03-CLUTCH-CABLE-428815/283178100226?epid=1123867147&hash=item41eebae602:g:cW4AAOSwAnlbqUmk:rk:7:pf:0
21
« on: 24 August 2018, 06:07:54 am »
Don't know if you know of this website, i normally use Fowlers or AJ Sutton for referencing spares, but i stumbled on this lot and the website looks quite tidy and simple to use. https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/
22
« on: 17 July 2018, 04:25:37 pm »
23
« on: 17 July 2018, 12:32:50 pm »
I've waited long enough now so it's eventually time to ask for your font of knowledge.
There's a noise coming from my bike that I can't even fathom out whereabouts it's even from yet due to added wind noise?
Best description is a whirring sound which seems to go along with the engine speed, most noticeable when I shut off the throttle and let the bike slow down with the engine. Imagine clicking a cable tie really quickly but it's constant.
Thing is, it only goes away when I pull the clutch in.
So that rules out anything to do with the wheels or wheel bearings. It doesn't go away either if I use one or both brakes, it just slows the noise down, but as soon as the clutch is pulled in it's gone.
It sounds a bit too loud to me to be a vibration thing, although I've not completely ruled that out yet, but from what I can guess I don't think it's coming from the rear of the bike. And pulling the clutch in doesn't stop the chain from moving so it can't be that either.
Any thoughts or ideas welcome, as firstly it's annoying the hell out of me, and secondly, something's obviously not right at all is it?
Cheers, D.
24
« on: 16 June 2018, 09:37:56 pm »
I've not really had a good look at it yet, 'cos it's not an immediate problem, but i went to adjust the idle screw yesterday just a tiny bit and it would appear to be a bit seized up, it wouldn't really budge at all and i didn't want to force it.
But is there much to them? Is it just a WD40 job?
My tickover is a fraction too high but not bothersome yet, so i was just wondering how i can free it up?
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