Ignition barrel removed! Drilled out no problems and the studs removed easily enough with stud extractors. Happy days!
Yolks and forks now ready for shipping to powder coaters.
Will stick some photos on when they come back. Cheers all..... 

Hi folks,
As per my fork rebuild post, with the forks and yolks off, I've decided to have the yolks powder coated as they're looking a little sad.
Read the posts on here and checked the Haynes manual, it says to remove the shear bolts from the top of the ignition collar, which I've managed to do by tapping out with a drift.
This reveals two Philips head screws, again, I've managed to undo these but I can't get the barrel away from the yolk. There's a shaft running up the centre and I can't find a way to make enough "room" to get the barrel out from the yolk.
Looking at the build up, it looks like the barrel is held in place on the bottom with two "no head" screws which screw into the yolk, do these need to be removed also? (See Photos) If so, any ideas how to remove them?
Hoping to get the yolks in the post on Monday so any suggestions on how to get these apart would be much appreciated.
Cheers guys.

Watcha all.
The forks are fully stripped now,stone guards off (worst bit of the whole escapade!) and the rebound adjuster housings are out also.
Next step, powder coating, Spoken to my man at Griffs, fork lowers in gloss black (matches the swing arm) £35 all in. if i'd wanted silver it would have been £45, not bad either way. So packaged up this morning and off to the post office.
Also decided that as the bikes in this level of strip to have the bottom yolk done as its looking a touch sad. price for top and bottom yolk is the same as the forks, but I'm undecided on the upper yolk as need to remove the key barrel. See how I go this morning.
Which leads me to steering bearings. Plenty on here about bearings,probably go with the tapered bearings, any potential potholes I should be aware of? Have changed a set on a Hornet before now, I know pressing them on is probably the best way to  but the workshop I used last time is no more.
Its going to be 10-14 days turn around on the forks so plenty of time to hopefully cut a deal with KTech.
Anyway, shall keep you posted.
Cheers

Hi all,
 
Another update.
 
The forks are stripped!! A bit of tube, a 26mm socket and some insulation tape (green and yellow, looks racier than black or red!) and the troublesome bottom bolt has been removed. See the attached photo, although I have patented the design! 
The rest is pretty much a doddle, although actually getting the retaining clip out was a bit of a bind! A quick wipe down and it's pretty obvious that the bushes are shot, tops one shinier than a shiny thing on shiny day! So, they've got to be replaced.
So, now it's decision time.......
Option 1:
I've also been in contact with KTech today, they're quoting £399 plus vat (about £474 all in) for the SSK kit and replacement spring fitted. Can't remember if the e-mail said the service parts would be on top of that or not. I did ask about squaddie discount and they will do something, but don't know what yet, the guy I've been in contact with is on leave now until next Wednesday. But any discount's got to be a good thing eh!
Also e-mailed Brooks Suspension but haven't heard anything back. Their website does say £499 for the SSK kit, including spring, which is more than KTech are quoting anyway.
Option 2:
Buy the SSK kit and "fit" it myself. Demon Tweaks sell the kits for £230. From the FZ1OA thread, if it's like the fitting of the Gold Valve kit, it's nothing too onerous, but there's always the chance of f**king something up and ruining the whole shooting match. Interesting question, would the damper kit be compatible with the Ohlins springs I have?
Option 3:
Replace the bushes, seals and fit the Ohlins springs I have, with new fork oil. Obviously the cheapest option as I can carryout the work myself easily enough. But...... seems like a compromise given the reading I've been doing lately.....
God I hate decisions!!
As always, finish with a question (or three!),
1. The compression damping adjuster on the bottom of the forks, can't find anything to say how to remove this?  Do they just unscrew?
2. The plastic dust covers on the top of the fork lowers, do they come off and if so, how?? Looks like they should screw off, but don't want to push it in case I snap them.
3. Fork lowers, anyone had them re-painted or powder coated? If so, anyone recommend anywhere? I've used a good firm in Bristol for powder coating to date, (Griffs Reality Motorworks, www.realitymotorworks.com ) just wondering on the general consensus.
Again, any info greatly received.
Will keep you posted....
Cheers.

Ok,
 
Stage one complete, the strip down has started!
Springs out, forks suspended upside down to let the skanky oil drain out, parts given a quick wipe down.
Couldn't get the bottom cartridge bolt out, reading the Haynes manual and some of the threads, looks like I'll have to Heath Robinson a socket on to some pipe somewhere along the line to hold the cartridge while I undo the bolt. Haynes manual mentions a Yam part no 90890-01447, anyone actually tried to get hold of one?
Reading the thread Mike recommended, they changed the valves also, anyone gone down this route themselves and any recommendations on the kit to get? Reading the thread, sounds reasonably simple if you have a) patience and b) more patience! 
Ok, last question, best place to get seals from?? And no, Antarctica isn't the answer I'm looking for!
Thanks again chaps.
 
Kev
 
 
 

Hi all,
Stripped the forks off the Fazer tonight as one of the seals is leaking.
So, question is, how difficult are the forks to strip, clean, change seals and rebuild? I have Ohlins springs to go back in (been sat in the box for about 3 yrs now as just not had the time to sort out previously! ), I've never stripped a fork before in my life but I'm reasonably handy with a spanner.
I've been looking around at firms that do fork servicing, and quite like the look of these as they do fork re-chroming as part of the "service" (there are some minor marks on the stanchions, but nothing major), but have no idea if the price is competitive or not? http://www.pittedforks.co.uk/price.php
Or, can anyone recommend someone for this type of service? I know a lot of you guys recommend the KTECH revalve/rebuild, but not really within my budget at the moment.
Any info/advice gratefully received.
Many thanks.
Kev CL