Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: robbo on 31 July 2021, 07:28:20 pm
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With hopefully an upcoming trip to Spain in September, I’ve got it into my head that at 16 years and 40k miles, a throttle cable could let go at any time. I’ve read through Pats Page and also Mike’s carb removal advice, and am assuming there’s no way a changing them without carb removal. If that’s the case, is it necessary to remove the carb bank totally from the bike, or would enough space be gained by separating the carbs from their inlets. Thanks in advance for any advice/info.
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"and am assuming there’s no way a changing them without carb removal."
Yes and no, you can do it in situ, but only have a set of thin long nose pliers with right angled tips and even then its a faff. Gnasher will correct me if my recollection is out of date.
From member the easiest way I have found is to follow the manual for the most part - - Deinstall the throttle/choke cables from the switchgear (you need the slack on both)
- Remove the battery - creates space for airbox to move back into
- The manual says to loosen the airbox mounting bolts (but you can get a bit more movement by removing them) and then disconnect the hoses from the airbox etc. Then slide the airbox back as far as it will go
- What the manual fails to mention is there is a cable (Exup cables I think) on the right handside of the airbox that gets jammed between the airbox and the frame. Removing these would/should give 5-10mm more space for the airbox to move.
- I then use bungees to hold it there, then I undue all the air box clamps.
- Then remove the coolant/vacuum hoses from the carbs. Now the manual says to remove the TPS from the carbs but if your carefull you can leave in-place. Otherwise use tipex to mark the position on the mounting bolts before removing the TPS.
- Then loosen all the inlet manifold and airbox boot clamps
And at this point is where I have deviated, as it makes getting the carb out/in so much easier -
- I removed the airbox cover and air filter (this allows you to reinstall the air-box boots from the inside etc)
- I then do up the airbox boot clamps just enough to grip the boots (you don't have to do this, it just fitted my workflow)
- I then pushed all the airbox boots into the airbox. With these out of the way the carbs require no wiggling to remove from the bike, as you will have an extra 2-3cm free space behind them.
- Make sure to place some protection over the engine and frame to protect them from scratches/scuffs from the carbs while you remove the throttle cables (ask me how I know)
- Then replace the throttle cables and then re-install the carbs back into the inlet manifold rubbers and do the clamps up.
- Then re-attached all the hoses and choke cable if you removed it.
- Then the reverse of steps 3,2 & 1 - and regarding putting the boots back, I suggest spraying some GT85 on the rear parts that fit into the airbox holes as this makes putting them back in so.... much eaiser.
The biggest single issue I and other owners have had is that the airbox dosen't seem to or cannot go back far enough, which is why I came up with the above work around with the air-box boots.
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If your throttle operation is smooth from idle to full throttle, returns all the way back unaided the same way, with a nice click sound, when twisting on the bar and rides snatch and jamming free, it's fine. You don't need to change it, just oil it properly it's not just going to snap. They snap mainly due to being incorrectly adjusted, damaged by owners removing them with long nose pliers damaging the cable or water Ingress.
I'd be more concerned with dealing with punchures than snapping throttle cables.
If you really want to change them it is a bit of a faff. There's a few little get arounds (see above post b1k3dude) but it's still a faff and it's far easier to remove the carbs. Just remember what I said about owners damaging the cables.
My advice leave well alone if the throttle operation is as above, just oil it.
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Thank you both for your replies, certainly some more advice to take on board. On my old ‘94 Speed Triple, I was able to get away with making a hook gadget from a wire coat hanger, to remove/instal the nipple in the cam, but that only has one cable. I must admit, I had hoped you’d suggest bending up a wire coathanger :lol , but obviously not the case.
The throttle action is fine and gives no problems at all. I’ll take the tank off tomorrow and have a good look at the carb end of the cables to make sure there’s no evidence of fraying etc.
I did a search on the subject of the cables failing and only got one hit, so it would seem I’m overthinking the possibility of it happening. I’ll follow Gnashers advice, and go down the re-lube route if they visibly appear ok. I’ve already bought genuine cables, so if my trip goes ahead, at least if I take them with me I’ll have the parts, even if a bike shop has to change them.
Thanks again to you both for your suggestions, much appreciated. :thumbup
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I’ve already bought genuine cables, so if my trip goes ahead, at least if I take them with me I’ll have the parts, even if a bike shop has to change them.
Yep, if it's make you feel better ;)
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If your throttle operation is smooth from idle to full throttle, returns all the way back unaided the same way, with a nice click sound, when twisting on the bar and rides snatch and jamming free, it's fine. You don't need to change it, just oil it properly it's not just going to snap.
Good point, I forgot and didnt even think to suggest this as the very first step. Cheap but effective cable oilers are easy to find -
- https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637192208/motorcycle-twin-clamp-cable-oiler (https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637192208/motorcycle-twin-clamp-cable-oiler)
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If your throttle operation is smooth from idle to full throttle, returns all the way back unaided the same way, with a nice click sound, when twisting on the bar and rides snatch and jamming free, it's fine. You don't need to change it, just oil it properly it's not just going to snap.
Good point, I forgot and didnt even think to suggest this as the very first step. Cheap but effective cable oilers are easy to find -
- https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637192208/motorcycle-twin-clamp-cable-oiler (https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637192208/motorcycle-twin-clamp-cable-oiler)
Yep, thanks b1k3rdude, got a couple of those, also the cylinder type that you fill with your choice of lube, which is no doubt what I’ll use with 3 in 1. Thanks again.
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with 3 in 1. Thanks again.
Don't use 3 in 1, it's a mixture. Part of that is a solvent which penetrates and allows the oil to soak in and free/lub but it will evaporate over time. 3 in 1 is not meant to be a lubricating oil just a free off, use engine oil, same as what's in the bike :thumbup and don't go mad or it will pee out for ages ;)
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Use engine oil, same as what's in the bike :thumbup and don't go mad or it will pee out for ages ;)
Er how is he supposed to inject that into the cable..? Is there an aerosol based lubricant he can use instead of engine oil..
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Use engine oil, same as what's in the bike :thumbup and don't go mad or it will pee out for ages ;)
Er how is he supposed to inject that into the cable..? Is there an aerosol based lubricant he can use instead of engine oil..
Er no, by using a cable oiler or oil cone reservoir ;)
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Yep, hydraulic cable oiler. It's a tube with rubber seal in the bottom that seals around the cable. The tube screws apart and is filled with your choice of oil, then screwed back together. The top half has a plunger that forces the oil into the cable. I thought 3 in 1 out of a can, not aerosol, would have been ok. Still Motul 7100 it will be. :thumbup
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:agree .
That's the way to do it :thumbup
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Is GT85 any good for cables?
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Is GT85 any good for cables?
You could, I wouldn't recommend it for cable oiling and it will a bit of a faff getting into the cable sleeve. It's really meant for, freeing off, water dispelling and corrosion prevention. It's similar stuff to WD40 (made by same company) and alike, albeit with PTFE in it.
Just use engine oil :)
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Didn’t have a compatible rubber insert in order to use my Doherty hydraulic cable oiler, but did have an almost perfectly fitting small funnel, which with some gaffa tape and a zip tie, sealed a treat. Gravity did it’s job, and in no time at all Motuls finest had lubed the cables.
Thanks for all the advice and suggestions, it’s what makes this forum No.1. :thumbup
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Yep, hydraulic cable oiler. It's a tube with rubber seal in the bottom that seals around the cable. The tube screws apart and is filled with your choice of oil, then screwed back together. The top half has a plunger that forces the oil into the cable.
How long does it take for the oil to come out the other end? are we talking 30s or a few mins..?
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It varies depending on size/length, about 20 seconds for a clutch cable. The trick with them is to set them up correctly for the size of cable, don't over oil and if you do, allow them to drain, or you get oil dripping out the ends for weeks :rolleyes
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Don't over oil and if you do, allow them to drain, or you get oil dripping out the ends for weeks :rolleyes
hah, indeed.