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For Sale & Wanted / fzs600 givi monorack and plate for sale
« on: 30 July 2014, 10:52:03 pm »
givi monorack and monokey plate off my 1998 fzs600 for sale on ebay. will fit other boxeyes. not sure about fox eyes.
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I just done mine last week and had a few issues with it, but I got there in the end thanks to some help from folks on here.
This may not be the most efficient or right way to do this, but it worked just fine for me.
Once I had the chain new in and ready to install the rivet link, I held the chain held in place with a clamp (rubber tooth type) as it draped over the edge of the engine.
Then using my hands (note this is a fiddly process and needs the dexterity of a gynacologist) I took both ends of the chain and folded back the open links on each side of the chain to get them out of the way, except the last links, the bottom ones in this case.
I pushed the rivet link through the bottom links but only pushed the rivets through until flush. Then I installed the first link plate and again pushed the link rivets through until flush. Then I pivoted round and into place the next open link on each side of the chain and pushed the rivets through until flush. Repeated this process for the next link until I was ready to put the top link plate in place.
Placed the top link into place and gently squeezed into place with a pliers over each rivet. This will allow the plate to be pressed on but only as far as the rivets come flush to the new plate. In order to get them through far enough to protrude and allow them to be peened over, I placed a small nut on the top plate over the rivet and squeezed with a pliers.
Did this with each rivet one at at time and press down in small increments to allow the plate to go on evenly and not to tight, I kept checking the width as I progressed as compared to existing link on the chain. Take care with the last pinch as you don't want to go to far and get a tight link as I did the first time.
Once I was happy with it, I got ready to peen the rivets. I checked the diameter of the rivet with the vernier, I then held a small lump hammer in one hand (and resting on my knee!) then using a small ball ended hammer and peened over the ends of each rivet.
A couple of small taps at a time works well, don't go too heavy handed, it's easy to over do it. Checked with the vernier again and once happy it was the same as the other rivets on the chain it was job done.
Hope this helps and good luck.
The quad stake anvil there looks too big for doing a cam chain, do they do a smaller one. Also noticed this was called the jumbo chain tool, so does it have driving pins small enough to split a cam chain
The tool I borrow to split mine was like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cam-Drive-Chain-Splitter-Breaker-Link-Riveter-Motorcycle-NEW-/181116192118?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a2b5dc576#ht_3084wt_892
but it's no good for riveting as I have said before
I've had no luck at all trying to find an open chain with a rivet link anywhere including all the reccomendations on here
Actually found a DID one in my shed (was a spare for the blackbird) and I checked out the specs, same length @ 130 links, same pitch@ 6.35 but inner width was different - so feck that anyway!
Any ideas where else I can try? I tried fleabay, Wemoto, AJ Sutton etc. but to no avail.
Cheers, Gar
If you take the centre bolt out of the tensioner first it will stay in the same place. If you leave the centre bolt in the spring will push the tensioner all the way out. I'd check the valve clearances next if I was you but if the tensioner is at the max then the chain is worn.
I believe the valve clearances would make it difficult to start rather than make that noise.
My last fzs600 was at 120,000 miles and never had the valve clearances done!
With the cam chain tensioner being on a pressure ratchet it will automatically extend when you take it out so cannot be relied upon as an indication of how far extended it is in the engine.
When replacing the tensioner did you remove the valve cover and check that the cam chain was tensioned and all the timing marks were in alignment?
I bought mine from Wemoto http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_600_fazer_sp/02-03/ and have found them very helful and goood to deal with.
Scroll down to the engine section, Chain is supplied complete and you need to order the soft link seperately.
What mileage is on you bike?
A complete cam chain means a major engine strip down as you need to lift out the crank to get the chain on and you cannot just seperate the crankcases as two of the crankcase bolts are under the barrel . A split chain from an engine point of view is just the carburettors, alternator cover and cam cover and cam chain tensioner off first and then the plugs and cams out. Split the chain and attached the new chain to the split link. With your third hand, turn the engine over holding the chain tightly and feeding it through. Install the cams, join the chain, check the cam timing, install the tensioner, check cam timing again. Replace the cam covers, alternator cover and carburettors.
Max time about 6 hours for a split chain (a very good mechanic could probably do it in 4 )