Interesting you say about the indicators, didn't know that, will be done this weekend, got some black silicone in the garage. The chain alignment marks are not accurate then, I'll check that, shouldn't be out as chain and sprockets were recent when I bought it but best to check.
If whoever replaced it may have used the marks if so it's likely it will be out and mm count. Had the carbtune on it today, TPS was also out. At idle it's around 180 mark, had to take it up to about 2.5k revs to get in the 230-250 range.
This is another
big hole owners and stealers go down the TPS shouldn't be moved unless it's being replaced, once set it's a
datum it doesn't move during use, so if it's
not been moving it can't be out. It only works off No4, to set it, No4
must be pulling 230-250Hg if it's not at 1150- 1250rpm the air mixture screw is out, just increasing the revs will
not balance them. They will be out at idle and that will
give you the cam chain noise. All cylinders
must be pulling 230 -250Hg at the spec revs, if not adjust the air mixture screw/s until they're, then balance 3&4, 1&2 then bring each pair into balance. Carbtunes aren't best and can be tricky to set up and use at times, but they should give you a fair result.
Once the above is done and all are pulling the spec Hg and are within 0.4Hg of each other at the spec revs, they're balanced. Now check the TPS and move it if it's out, lock it up and don't touch it again it's now a datum.
I'd say the HT leads are originals, I replaced the spark plugs only a few weeks ago but original leads. Assume the NGK caps have the same connection, not sure the official name but no screw cap? Else I'm stuck there, threw the tops away .
Cracked HT caps or holed (leeking) leads will not give you cam chain rattle, the bike will tick and will run like a dog as the revs increase. To check, lift the tank, start bike turn out the lights and you'll see the aching, if you don't have a garage do it at night.