INSTRUCTIONS
"...To set the tensioner adjustment, rotate the engine forward while screwing the tensioner bolt in. When you feel the engine tensioner parts (guide, rollers, etc.) make contact with the moving cam chain, back the tensioner bolt out 1/4 turn and tighten the jam nut. (For the finer pitch thread on the APE Pro Series tensioner it is advised to back the tensioner up 1/2 of a turn.)..."
The instructions in the ebay link which are reffering to a certain value for the chain deflection that should be adjusted sound for me more reliable.
With the quoted instructions above I have my doubts to get the right tension because it is an indirect method and the chain deflection depends on the lenght of the chain, the type, number an position of the chain guides and so on.
But I am still not sure if you get the designed tension to the chain by measuring the deflection in any case. For a spring/ratch type chain tensioner like we have it on the Fazer it might work more or less. Because you can measure the deflection on an opened and not running engine with the original tensioner and then adjust the same value with the manual tensioner.
But with oil-pressure assisted tensioners this is not so easy. And these hydraulic systems are the only ones where I could imagine that they might back out when closing the throttle. Why should a ratchet tensioner like it is used in the Fazer do that? It is mechanically blocked in the reverse direction.
Pushing the original tensioner manually to the next notch in case of chain noise would be my preferred method (I have the same issues on my TDM850 and there it is common practice).
Best regards
Guenter
