Date: 30-04-24  Time: 12:49 pm

Author Topic: Changing Chain and Sprockets  (Read 3736 times)

Derpdiherp

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Changing Chain and Sprockets
« on: 28 April 2015, 01:54:28 pm »
This will be my first time changing the chain and sprockets on my old fzs600 (or any motorbike for that matter) and I was wondering if I could get some sage advice.

Do I have the gist of this right?

I'll need toolwise-
  Dremel with grinding tool for grinding off the master links rivet heads
  Chain splitter / riveter for putting the new chain on
  All the usual tools for removing the rear wheel (sockets, big ass torque wrench etc)
  Chisel for dealing with the locking washer on the front sprocket

Do I need any other tools?

And do you reckon it'll be doable by a novice in an afternoon? I'll be racing against the clock as I'll be doing it outside, I'm a pleb without a garage unfortunately.

darrsi

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Re: Changing Chain and Sprockets
« Reply #1 on: 28 April 2015, 02:23:20 pm »
12mm upgraded sprocket nut.
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Derpdiherp

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Re: Changing Chain and Sprockets
« Reply #2 on: 28 April 2015, 02:26:22 pm »
I got the sprocket nut upgraded when I bought the bike. Even went so far as to ask the guy to show me the old one and the new one he was fitting. Can't trust dealers as far as you can throw them!

Derpdiherp

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Re: Changing Chain and Sprockets
« Reply #3 on: 28 April 2015, 02:40:58 pm »
Anyone know the size of chisel I'll need for the front sprocket washer?

limax2

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Re: Changing Chain and Sprockets
« Reply #4 on: 28 April 2015, 08:02:40 pm »
Anyone know the size of chisel I'll need for the front sprocket washer?
Anything to get the washer starting to bend onto the flats on the nut will do. A screw driver will do the job.  i usually use a flat punch to finish the job. I do it in a couple of places.


Don't forget to undo the front sprocket nut before removing the chain. A strong piece of wood through the wheel and resting on the swinging arm to stop the wheel turning will help. Easier than trying to hold the back brake on, especially if you are on your own.
You will need a 32mm socket and a good strong breaker bar to undo the nut. May need a tube on it to give extra leverage. Then have you a torque wrench to tighten the nut to the correct torque setting. Maybe borrow one if not.
« Last Edit: 28 April 2015, 08:20:40 pm by limax2 »

Derpdiherp

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Re: Changing Chain and Sprockets
« Reply #5 on: 28 April 2015, 08:48:44 pm »
That's brilliant info, cheers mate! Didn't realise the washer was that soft.

I have an 18 inch torque wrench, reckon I'll still need a breaker bar?

And bugger don't have a 32mm socket, will have to get one.

anutz

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Re: Changing Chain and Sprockets
« Reply #6 on: 28 April 2015, 10:24:06 pm »
I am changing mine right now....my thread shows the breaker and socket i used - i also plus gassed it daily for a while but yours might come off easier - mine had never been done...


http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,16751.0.html


Also make sure you are not in gear, do not want to bugger the transmission, i put it in neutral and got someone to hold the back brake on so the chain is holding the sprocket and stopping it rotating...






riedrider

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Re: Changing Chain and Sprockets
« Reply #7 on: 28 April 2015, 10:43:31 pm »
A  really interesting question: which torque do you use for the sprocket nut?
Originally it is 70 Nm but the service bulletin says it should be 90 Nm. But it also says that you sould use Loctite 620 and this is "a little bit" more than a simple locking agent. Loosing the nut later on could be a quiet intrestening adventure....
I had a look on my newly bought  FZS600 with only 10100 miles run. And the nut was slightly loose. There was rust on the thread of the nut and on the drive shaft. The thread diameter was with 17,8 mm over the service limit.
I installed the service kit with the 12mm nut but applied only the original 70 Nm without lockking agent. But I folded 3 sides of the securing washer to the nut and I will observe this.

Regards
Guenter
« Last Edit: 28 April 2015, 11:06:17 pm by riedrider »
Guenter

Derpdiherp

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Re: Changing Chain and Sprockets
« Reply #8 on: 28 April 2015, 11:29:39 pm »
Bloody ell anutz, 600mm breaker! Well if needs must I'll add that to the shopping cart as well, I'm sure it'll come in handy for other stuff.
And thanks for the advice about not being in gear - between my haynes manual, you and limax2 I think I'm pretty much ready to do this.

riedrider -
They say with the upgraded nut for your front sprocket you want to be at 90nm of torque. Other people on here seem to be doing 80nm due to worries about whether the threads on the driveshaft can take it. I'll be going for 80nm with loctite.



riedrider

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Re: Changing Chain and Sprockets
« Reply #9 on: 28 April 2015, 11:43:24 pm »
Quote
I'll be going for 80nm with loctite.
This would be my next step if I would  find out that the 70 Nm with triple folded washer is not enough.
But I would only use Loctite 24X medium strength or similar not Loctite 620 which is something completely different.

Regards

Guenter
« Last Edit: 29 April 2015, 07:33:15 am by riedrider »
Guenter

anutz

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Re: Changing Chain and Sprockets
« Reply #10 on: 29 April 2015, 07:31:55 am »
Also  if you see the socket I got - its a "deeper" one as opposed to shallow, allowed the breaker to be used at a better angle than the shallow sockets which would see other bits of the bike get in the way....