Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: coffee on 12 October 2018, 10:22:26 pm
-
Got around to putting on some cush drive rubbers and a gearbox sprocket,well,got as far as back wheel out and sprocket cover etc off then noted the size of the nut, 36mm ! none of my stuff came close so waiting for a socket off E/bay only £8 with p&p but thought I'd got a pretty extensive toolkit,obviously not. ;)
-
Not a size in the average socket set box that's for sure! :eek
Def. one worth buying tho'! :)
-
You could try some of your local little engineering supply shops. I went through eBay to find some big sockets (for my FJ gearbox sprocket for one) and they were all about the same price as you quoted, plus delivery and a couple of days wait.
I looked up local engineering/supply companies and found a couple straight away that had the bigger sockets in stock at the same price (or slightly cheaper) so I managed to get the jobs done without any delay.
Also, for a little bit more money, Halfords stock bigger sockets too - I suppose I'm just impatient so I don't like waiting for things to be delivered :) :)
-
You could try some of your local little engineering supply shops. I went through eBay to find some big sockets (for my FJ gearbox sprocket for one) and they were all about the same price as you quoted, plus delivery and a couple of days wait.
I looked up local engineering/supply companies and found a couple straight away that had the bigger sockets in stock at the same price (or slightly cheaper) so I managed to get the jobs done without any delay.
Also, for a little bit more money, Halfords stock bigger sockets too - I suppose I'm just impatient so I don't like waiting for things to be delivered :) :)
I did phone Halfords and they wanted 13£ for the socket and I figured seeing as I don't need the bike for everyday use(I'm mainly a fair weather rider) I'd save myself a fiver and wait,I'd got to do the cush drive rubbers anyway and there's another story,I hadn't quite got them into the hub far enough and this must have only been a few thou,do you think I could get the wheel in? no way,after thinking what I could have done I tapped the sprocket all the way around just to make sure it was home and bingo! straight in,something to remember in the future. :rolleyes
-
If you still have the toolkit there’s usually a spanner to fit the back nut. Will do if you mark where it is the start then count turns off.
-
If you still have the toolkit there’s usually a spanner to fit the back nut. Will do if you mark where it is the start then count turns off.
What back nut?is this on a gen 1.
-
I think the reference is to the rear wheel spindle nut.........maybe :)
-
I think the reference is to the front sprocket nut, but it certainly is up for interpretation.
cush drive rubbers (Rear wheel) and a gearbox sprocket,well,got as far as back wheel out and sprocket cover etc off then noted the size of the nut
-
Not ever having had anything to do with a Gen1 I thought there may be some kind of nut bigger than the wheel axle to pull the cushdrive rubbers in and was discontinued on the Gen 2, I think we just got our paths crossed,but thanks anyway. :)
-
Thought this was about the rear wheel nut, never mind
-
Got the 36mm socket today,"just pop in the garage and get the sprocket off"I thought, jammed the chain with a screwdriver through the links,got a long bar and short extention and tapped the socket it while pulling,2hours of fucking and blinding later do you think this whore of a nut would shift?not a chance, I tried everything I could think of,I had to stop and go and do a job.Tomorrow I'm going to put the rear wheel back put it in gear lock the wheel somehow and use a scaffold pole and just hope it moves,honestly,I've never known a nut so tight. :'(
-
Daft question, but it seems like all the sensible ones have been bottomed out -Is there any way the locking tab could still be getting in the way of the sprocket nut unscrewing ??
-
An impact socket would work.
My bar was 2' long and with the bike in gear and the back brake on as hard as possible it still took some power to shift it!
-
The front sprocket nuts are always a bastard to undo, they are screwed on with Loctite 620, the hardest setting loctite. Bike in gear, chain guard off, piece of 3 X 2" timber through the spokes of rear wheel and across the top of the swinging arm to lock the rear wheel completely, socket and the longest torsion bar you have and swing on it, get a friend to support the bike to stop you pulling it over. In the end I had to take a hammer and blunt chisel to mine and drift it around but even then it did not give up easily.
Good luck
-
The front sprocket nuts are always a bastard to undo, they are screwed on with Loctite 620, the hardest setting loctite. Bike in gear, chain guard off, piece of 3 X 2" timber through the spokes of rear wheel and across the top of the swinging arm to lock the rear wheel completely, socket and the longest torsion bar you have and swing on it, get a friend to support the bike to stop you pulling it over. In the end I had to take a hammer and blunt chisel to mine and drift it around but even then it did not give up easily.
Good luck
This was my next plan,but went in this morning cable tied the front brake got my beloved wife to lean on the rear brake as hard as possible,my daughter to stop the socket from coming off the nut,a 3foot scaffold pole on my long bar.The first time the wheel skidded but the second try it come loose!you'd have thought I'd won the lottery,thanks for your replies anyway. :thumbup :thumbup :thumbup
-
Great I am so pleased you moved it. :lol
-
Really need some advise now,i've come to put this new sprocket on and it's so much thinner than the original ,there's no shoulder to speak of and I'm not sure whether to fit it because there's going to be no support as such or don't you need it?
-
Doesn't matter as long as the sprocket is the correct size for the chain and shaft. The rubber is only a damper to quieten the chain.
-
Agreed, as long as the rubber doesn't foul against the casing when the sprocket is in place (but if it's been made right it shouldn't).
-
A lot of replacement sprockets do not have the rubber/plastic sound dampening material fitted (See Pic).
But do ensure you really, really clean the gearbox output shaft especially around the shoulder, and the case area behind the sprocket as you don't want to be torquing down on dirt.
Make sure the clutch actuation mechanism on the outer case is really clean and the mechanism is working freely while you in there
Assuming you have the new 12mm upgrade nut and new tab washer.
The recommended torque for the front sprocket nut is 70Nm, some will say do it less at about 60Nm, with the 12mm upgrade nut , new washer and Loctite 620 I'm sure it will hold at the lesser setting but have to admit I did mine at 70Nm as was recommended, the last thing you want is it letting go at 80mph on the motorway.
-
Put it all back together today,got to admit I put the original nut and washer back on,I never gave it a thought 'till I seen the post,hopefully it'll be ok,I've never put a new nut on any other bike,but obviously it's the thing to do.While I think about it does anyone have a problem putting the rear wheel back on their own?(gen 2) I always have a right game with that poxy caliper bracket,by now you're probably thinking "can this joker do anything?" I really don't normally have probs with working on my bikes,in actual fact I enjoy it,I only do basic servicing and cosmetic jobs,I wouldn't start stripping engines and box's etc.It's just that this particular job has been a ball ache what with not putting the cush drive rubbers in far enough and then couldn't shift the sprocket nut,can't win 'em all ay?still thanks for your replies it's always reassuring to know there's someone who'll help you out. :thumbup :thumbup :thumbup :thumbup
-
Put it all back together today,got to admit I put the original nut and washer back on,I never gave it a thought 'till I seen the post,hopefully it'll be ok,I've never put a new nut on any other bike,but obviously it's the thing to do.While I think about it does anyone have a problem putting the rear wheel back on their own?(gen 2) I always have a right game with that poxy caliper bracket,by now you're probably thinking "can this joker do anything?" I really don't normally have probs with working on my bikes,in actual fact I enjoy it,I only do basic servicing and cosmetic jobs,I wouldn't start stripping engines and box's etc.It's just that this particular job has been a ball ache what with not putting the cush drive rubbers in far enough and then couldn't shift the sprocket nut,can't win 'em all ay?still thanks for your replies it's always reassuring to know there's someone who'll help you out. :thumbup :thumbup :thumbup :thumbup
Hi Coffee,
Below pertains to the FZS600 and I do not know if it applies to the Mighty 1000
Yamaha have had serious failures with the nut coming loose on the out put shaft, so they produced a 12mm think nut as opposed to the 9mm standard nut,the 12mm nut also has a slightly deeper recess on the back of the nut.
I would recommend you purchase a new nut and lock tag washer, if the old one comes loose it wrecks the spline and thread on the end of the gear box output shaft, resulting in a full engine strip down and rebuild fitting a new output shaft, which is likely to cost more than the bike is worth.
-
I do get the damage that would arise if t his nut came adrift but I don't know if the 600 is the same but the locking washer locates on the shaft like the sprocket itself then is knocked over as usual ,once tightened I would have thought it very unlikely to be able to work loose without the tabs on the washer breaking ( both of them) and this in itself is pretty unlikely. I'll certainly keep an eye on it though. :thumbup