Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: E23dude on 01 May 2016, 10:19:01 pm
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Hello guys!
Me and my girfriend bought ourselves an 1998 FZS fazer 600!
I really enjoy the bike, this is my first real bike as well. I previously owned a Husqvarna WR and driven a little motorcross earlier!
- But at the age of 26, I finally took the driving license for motorcycle! I got the Fazer for a resonable price and thought that this surely would be a great starter bike, and it really is!
My girfriend really likes the bike!
(http://i.imgur.com/ohoTc5j.jpg) (http://imgur.com/ohoTc5j)
(http://i.imgur.com/84Podw1.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/oS20MmL.jpg)
But the bike has some minor issues!
1. Starting the bike: The bike wont start at all with the side stand down (I know it wont start in gear), but even when it is in neutral, the engine shuts down! It starts with the midstand down thou.
Also, even when it is in neutral it will only start when the clutch is fully(!) enganged! I have to squeeze the clutch handle all the way to the handlebar, really thight, and especially on the outermost point of the clutchhandle, to make the starter engage.
2. When it is cold it is really hard to start as well, in the morning when I am on my way to work, I am worried about draining the battery (I have managed to start it eventually.. every morning)
- And when it starts I use the choke.
Does anybody know what I can do to fix these things?
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Welcome to the forum.
I'm having the same issue at the moment as well.
Culprit is more than likely the sidestand switch, which unfortunately is in a pig of a position to get to.
The side stand pushes a plunger inside the switch when the stand is down but when faulty causes all sorts of issues.
They're cheap enough to buy a used switch but fitting it is a complete pain as you can't get near it.
I'm gonna bypass it tomorrow with a small cable to basically hotwire it. Not ideal i know but it is a short term fix.
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Would that sidestand switch also cause the problem to start the bike in neutral without the clutch even thou it isnt standing on the sidestand?
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Yep, and has a bad habit of killing the battery dead in seconds!
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Spray the whole area of the switch with brake cleaner and see if that helps.
At the moment i can start the bike with the stand up, then it will remain running when i put it down to warm it up.
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Have you adjusted the clutch cable at all, that may possibly need tweaking by the sounds of it.
But it needs to be done properly, lower end first, then finer adjustments at the lever end.
There is an online version on here of the bike manual, but you really need to get hold of a Haynes book version as it's an invaluable piece of kit.
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i usally park it on the midstand and letting it warn up for a short while before i drive it.
Gotten myself a technic the get the bike on the midstand without using the sidestand first when i get off the bike :P
But when the bike is in neutral, is it normal on fzs to use the clutch to start it up?
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but you really need to get hold of a Haynes book version as it's an invaluable piece of kit.
i have one :) i always buy the Haynes manual for the vehicles i own. but im fairly new to motorcycle. i do the repair on my cars myself
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i usally park it on the midstand and letting it warn up for a short while before i drive it.
Gotten myself a technic the get the bike on the midstand without using the sidestand first when i get off the bike :P
But when the bike is in neutral, is it normal on fzs to use the clutch to start it up?
No, not at all, that's why i suggested making sure the cable is adjusted properly just for starters.
You'll need a deep set 12mm ring spanner to adjust the lower end of the cable properly, but loosen the nut with a good socket first, preferably with 6 sides rather than 12, as i found out the nut can round off very easily.
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Ok, maybe ill try to adjust the clutch tomorrow! 8)
i think i also should change the coolant fluid aswell, since the previous owned said that its propably 2-5 years old (he had the bike since late 2014 and he hasnt changed it)
also, have anyone modified a temperature gauge and sensor for the coolant? Being a BMW car guy Im kind of addicted to watch the water temperature while driving :rollin
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Ok, maybe ill try to adjust the clutch tomorrow! 8)
i think i also should change the coolant fluid aswell, since the previous owned said that its propably 2-5 years old (he had the bike since late 2014 and he hasnt changed it)
also, have anyone modified a temperature gauge and sensor for the coolant? Being a BMW car guy Im kind of addicted to watch the water temperature while driving :rollin
BMW driver eh? :tape
No real need for a temperature gauge on these bikes, as long as the system is healthy enough then even the fan rarely comes on.
If the waterways are blocked then it will dump boiling fluid onto the floor from the expansion tank under your seat on the right side.
I used to stare at the temperature gauge on my old bike, because it really was a good guide of any problems if it went above or below normal, but it's really not a problem with the Fazer.
As you know it's been a long time since changing coolant though i would personally buy some Radflush and give the system a good clean up before refilling with new liquid.
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Ok, maybe ill try to adjust the clutch tomorrow! 8)
i think i also should change the coolant fluid aswell, since the previous owned said that its propably 2-5 years old (he had the bike since late 2014 and he hasnt changed it)
also, have anyone modified a temperature gauge and sensor for the coolant? Being a BMW car guy Im kind of addicted to watch the water temperature while driving :rollin
BMW driver eh? :tape
No real need for a temperature gauge on these bikes, as long as the system is healthy enough then even the fan rarely comes on.
If the waterways are blocked then it will dump boiling fluid onto the floor from the expansion tank under your seat on the right side.
I used to stare at the temperature gauge on my old bike, because it really was a good guide of any problems if it went above or below normal, but it's really not a problem with the Fazer.
As you know it's been a long time since changing coolant though i would personally buy some Radflush and give the system a good clean up before refilling with new liquid.
The problem is that if the coolant leak. the temprature overheating light wouldt come on?
like my Beamers, the overheatens happens when the temperatur gauge is at the lowest, if i drive for a few minutes and the gauge a doesent move i have to stop and refill
(yea i know, those old beamers....)
Regarding the radflush, i think i will do that before i put in new coolant. i guess that the water canals are quite tiny in bike engines compared to car engines!
Just out of curiosity since there is air cooling rips on theese, would they help if the cooling level is low? or are they just there for the looks?
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Ok, maybe ill try to adjust the clutch tomorrow! 8)
i think i also should change the coolant fluid aswell, since the previous owned said that its propably 2-5 years old (he had the bike since late 2014 and he hasnt changed it)
also, have anyone modified a temperature gauge and sensor for the coolant? Being a BMW car guy Im kind of addicted to watch the water temperature while driving :rollin
BMW driver eh? :tape
No real need for a temperature gauge on these bikes, as long as the system is healthy enough then even the fan rarely comes on.
If the waterways are blocked then it will dump boiling fluid onto the floor from the expansion tank under your seat on the right side.
I used to stare at the temperature gauge on my old bike, because it really was a good guide of any problems if it went above or below normal, but it's really not a problem with the Fazer.
As you know it's been a long time since changing coolant though i would personally buy some Radflush and give the system a good clean up before refilling with new liquid.
The problem is that if the coolant leak. the temprature overheating light wouldt come on?
like my Beamers, the overheatens happens when the temperatur gauge is at the lowest, if i drive for a few minutes and the gauge a doesent move i have to stop and refill
(yea i know, those old beamers....)
Regarding the radflush, i think i will do that before i put in new coolant. i guess that the water canals are quite tiny in bike engines compared to car engines!
Just out of curiosity since there is air cooling rips on theese, would they help if the cooling level is low? or are they just there for the looks?
Not really, but there'snot a lot of chat on here about the cooling system, because it's very reliable, so just do the Radflush, top up with a decent premixed coolant and it'll be fine.
Don't forget to top up the expansion tank as well to the upper line.
With the bike on the centre stand on flat ground you can check the level is normal by looking at the expansion tank level.
If all is well the coolant level will hardly budge at all.
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Hello guys!
Me and my girfriend bought ourselves an 1998 FZS fazer 600!
I really enjoy the bike, this is my first real bike as well. I previously owned a Husqvarna WR and driven a little motorcross earlier!
- But at the age of 26, I finally took the driving license for motorcycle! I got the Fazer for a resonable price and thought that this surely would be a great starter bike, and it really is!
My girfriend really likes the bike!
([url]http://i.imgur.com/ohoTc5j.jpg[/url]) ([url]http://imgur.com/ohoTc5j[/url])
([url]http://i.imgur.com/84Podw1.jpg[/url])
([url]http://i.imgur.com/oS20MmL.jpg[/url])
But the bike has some minor issues!
1. Starting the bike: The bike wont start at all with the side stand down (I know it wont start in gear), but even when it is in neutral, the engine shuts down! It starts with the midstand down thou.
Also, even when it is in neutral it will only start when the clutch is fully(!) enganged! I have to squeeze the clutch handle all the way to the handlebar, really thight, and especially on the outermost point of the clutchhandle, to make the starter engage.
2. When it is cold it is really hard to start as well, in the morning when I am on my way to work, I am worried about draining the battery (I have managed to start it eventually.. every morning)
- And when it starts I use the choke.
Does anybody know what I can do to fix these things?
You say issues, there are no issues as all like the first photo but shame about the bike :rolleyes
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Not really, but there'snot a lot of chat on here about the cooling system, because it's very reliable, so just do the Radflush, top up with a decent premixed coolant and it'll be fine.
Don't forget to top up the expansion tank as well to the upper line.
With the bike on the centre stand on flat ground you can check the level is normal by looking at the expansion tank level.
If all is well the coolant level will hardly budge at all.
Ok, ill give it a flush and replace the coolant then. guess im just need to get used to check the coolant level on my Daily check before i drive (im used to take a light check etc and look for oilspill before i move it off the centre stand)
Also something is that the rear brake leveler seems a little sloppy, i have to push it really far down do brake hard with the rear, but it works. maybe to let bleed out some air?
the previous owned hadent done anything to it cause he only used the front brakes, but i want things like that to work as it is supposed to!
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Check rear pads for wear also caliper may need servicing, the rear brake hose has been disconnected at some point as it should go through the hooped bracket on the swinging arm in your pic to keep it clear of the rear wheel. (http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/smile.gif)
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Check rear pads for wear also caliper may need servicing, the rear brake hose has been disconnected at some point as it should go through the hooped bracket on the swinging arm in your pic to keep it clear of the rear wheel. ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/smile.gif[/url])
Thanks, havent noticed it before u wrote it :P
maybe i should do a complete overhaul on the rear caliper sometime soon. i dont like it when the brakes arent woriking as they should! even though its "just the rear brakes"
Also im thinking of changing the headlights to a solo round light that really lights up the road! the one thats on is crap when at night!
any suggestions?
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Have a quick look at this about the side stand switch, if you haven't already.
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,19462.25.html (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,19462.25.html)
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You appear to be missing some fairing. :)
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You appear to be missing some fairing. :)
Oh no?!? please dont tell the Original Politzei about it? They would surely put me to arrest and lock me away for good.... :D
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Have a quick look at this about the side stand switch, if you haven't already.
[url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,19462.25.html[/url] ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,19462.25.html[/url])
Yea, ive read about that switch and concluded with myself that ill just keep it as it is :rollin (until i remove the engine for some reasons?)
i usally park it on the centre stand so the sidestand problem arent such a pain.
As for my clutch handle squeezing to trigger the starter motor i found out there is a clutch switch beside the handle :) (yea, did i mention Im new to modern motorcycle, my Husqvarna WR didnt have such advance feutures) so i adjusted it so now i dont have to press the handle hard into the handlebars to start it up.
but! when im in Neutral, is it cause the sidestand switch it doesent start without engaging the clutch?
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Have a quick look at this about the side stand switch, if you haven't already.
[url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,19462.25.html[/url] ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,19462.25.html[/url])
Yea, ive read about that switch and concluded with myself that ill just keep it as it is :rollin (until i remove the engine for some reasons?)
i usally park it on the centre stand so the sidestand problem arent such a pain.
As for my clutch handle squeezing to trigger the starter motor i found out there is a clutch switch beside the handle :) (yea, did i mention Im new to modern motorcycle, my Husqvarna WR didnt have such advance feutures) so i adjusted it so now i dont have to press the handle hard into the handlebars to start it up.
but! when im in Neutral, is it cause the sidestand switch it doesent start without engaging the clutch?
Most likely, yeah.
Have you tried totally degreasing the area of the side stand switch with brake cleaner, especially making sure the plunger moves freely in and out?
Mine would totally cut out with the stand down in neutral, but when i gave it a good clean it would let me put the stand down only AFTER starting the bike with the stand up.
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If you still have to much travel in the rear brake lever after checking the above you could reduce it by turning the clevis a couple of times
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Have been offshore for a time so havent really got anything done with it, exept that i bought a pair of crash pads. Should i mount them at the front mountings for my "catkiller"?
Seems to be the right place for them, also one of the crash pads r longer than the other? what side to i place the short one and the long side?
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Aftermarket levers might be causing a problem with the clutch and microswitch at the hnadlebars.
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Have been offshore for a time so havent really got anything done with it, exept that i bought a pair of crash pads. Should i mount them at the front mountings for my "catkiller"?
Seems to be the right place for them, also one of the crash pads r longer than the other? what side to i place the short one and the long side?
There's a reason why one's longer than the other, try them both sides and it will become obvious which way round they go.
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Have been offshore for a time so havent really got anything done with it, exept that i bought a pair of crash pads. Should i mount them at the front mountings for my "catkiller"?
Seems to be the right place for them, also one of the crash pads r longer than the other? what side to i place the short one and the long side?
There's a reason why one's longer than the other, try them both sides and it will become obvious which way round they go.
Yea, the "manual" is en german and not english. but where is the mounting place for them on the bike?
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I'm presuming you mean these type?
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What kind of downpipes are thoose on your pick Darsi? i need to buy new ones, the originals are trash.. :rollin
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It will only start in neutral while on the sidestand. If the bike does not stall when you put it into gear then the problem is not the side stand switch. The earth from the side stand switch is needed to keep the Ignitor alive when riding.
I would check the connections at the starter cut out relay under the left panel for corrosion.
The 600 usually does not require choke to start when cold just open the throttle a little, then if need give it some choke. Change the plugs and balance/synch the carburetors, this will help to sort the starting issues.