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Messages - BBROWN1664
26
« on: 22 February 2024, 08:14:15 am »
As far as I can recall, the FZS400 was for Japan only but many found their way to the UK. Lots of parts are interchangeable with the 600 and even share part numbers. Unfortunately the carbs are one of the things that are not the same. This thread may help. 400 and 600 parts that are the same (foc-u.co.uk)
27
« on: 19 February 2024, 02:46:36 pm »
Cheers for the replies so far. I'm getting a bit frustrated with the Haynes manual
Go to the downloads section on this forum and you will find the Yamaha official wiring diagrams.
28
« on: 19 February 2024, 09:45:27 am »
You don't need to align the engine to change the tensioner.
29
« on: 18 February 2024, 03:35:17 pm »
the initial clicking is the fuel pump.
If the engine is turning over, here are a few things iot wont be before people suggest otherwise. - Kill switch - side stand switch - clutch switch
For the coil resistance, if you are seeing the same on both coils, chances are they are fine, its just your meter accuracy thats out. have you got both coils connected on the low tension side? could be a bad earth if you are not getting a spark on any plug. If its not a bad earth, it will be something else thats common to both coils like the ECU
30
« on: 31 January 2024, 09:01:39 pm »
yamaha dealer should be able to sort it out
31
« on: 27 January 2024, 05:56:56 pm »
That looks ok to me. They do crack more at the top as thats where the sun hits them. You will notice the inner ones are not normally as bad as the outer ones.
32
« on: 26 January 2024, 11:12:57 am »
Annoyingly, apparently some cars that have that stop/ start system that cuts the engine when they're stopped at traffic lights etc, rely on the foot brake being pressed to operate!
That means that, if you do like I was taught, ie foot brake to the lights, come to a halt, handbrake, neutral, foot off brake, the system doesn't work on those cars
On my Audi, when you stop, put the handbrake on and put it in neutral (or park as its an auto) the engine stays off until you push the brake again to put it back in drive. As its an auto though, i just keep my foot on the brake
33
« on: 22 January 2024, 08:38:10 am »
I used to have a pair of soft leather gloves that I kept going back to as i couldn't find a suitable replacement pair. Eventually the things were falling apart but i did find another identical pair at one of the stalls at WSB where they were selling off discontinued stock. This was in the days before good internet search engines so a good Google may find you a pair of new old stock somewhere.
Eventually i replaced mine with some Triumph leather gloves which are almost as good.
34
« on: 25 December 2023, 10:39:47 am »
Wishing all of you and your families a great Christmas and a Happy New Year
35
« on: 19 December 2023, 06:52:20 pm »
The kill switch would stop everything. If the clutch switch or side stand switch were playing up it wouldn't turn over either.
36
« on: 19 December 2023, 05:31:40 pm »
A nice cheap bike there. Enjoy it and welcome to the mad house.
37
« on: 19 December 2023, 05:30:54 pm »
If you have changed the fuel filter, air filter and plugs, that just leaves mixture and compression. Compression is not a common issue so check the carbs. Pilot screws out 2 1/4 turns and then balance the carbs (including checking the TPS before and after)
Using the choke on a cold start is quite normal on a carbureted bike
38
« on: 18 December 2023, 09:53:45 pm »
With a constant 12v there (have you checked AC voltage or an oscilloscope as it may be switching too fast for your DC range to react) then it could be the CDI not registering the sensor or its knackered. There is a guide in the Yamaha manual (download section) telling you how to test the pickup sensor.
39
« on: 18 December 2023, 07:37:59 pm »
Things like the kill switch, side stand and clutch switch stop the starter turning, not the spark so if its turning over, its not them. Are you getting a supply to the low tension side of the coils? If not then CDI unit and/or a fuse and/or one of the loom connectors between the coils and the CDI.
40
« on: 01 December 2023, 04:42:57 pm »
Sounds like scam mail. When the site sends you a message it does come from noreply@foc-u.co.uk but doesnt have another address hidden behind it.
Looking at the members database, that email address is one of our members though. You can search members by their email address from the ribbon bar above.
41
« on: 28 November 2023, 12:44:11 pm »
I have approved it now but add a profile pic before one of the other admins boot you out again
42
« on: 27 November 2023, 09:28:56 pm »
have you joined this forums faceache group yet?
Easy to find as if has foc-u in the name
43
« on: 27 November 2023, 06:49:09 pm »
yes, axle stand under the engine gives enough clearance. Remove calipers, remove wheel, remove mudguard and then the forks. Radiator is easy enough to remove too if the bolts are rusted away.
44
« on: 21 November 2023, 08:40:53 am »
I have done the same - well, actually the person i bought my non-runner from had done it :Pokefun
45
« on: 01 November 2023, 10:25:42 am »
check your idle speed. Idle should be 1150-1250. Then balance the carbs.
46
« on: 25 October 2023, 12:24:21 pm »
Just stuff an LED bulb in the cluster.
47
« on: 23 October 2023, 11:15:52 am »
I still have 2 sets of 1/4" imperial sockets I bought from Snap-on around 1985 as an apprentice. I dont use them much and any new stuff i buy tends to be Halfords professional stuff that has a lifetime guarantee too.
48
« on: 17 October 2023, 12:40:05 pm »
Assuming you have the right licence, the kit is easy to remove if it is the normal kit.
Remove the seat, remove the battery, loosen the airbox bolts and clamps holding it to the carbs and pull the airbox backwards. The restrictors are in the inlets (big washers with holes in). Pull them out and put everything back together. Job done.
49
« on: 16 October 2023, 11:23:13 am »
Welcome to the forum - you should find the Fazer is far superior to the SV in many ways.
50
« on: 14 October 2023, 12:10:20 pm »
I always forget about Rotherhithe
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