Assuming you have the right licence, the kit is easy to remove if it is the normal kit.

Remove the seat, remove the battery, loosen the airbox bolts and clamps holding it to the carbs and pull the airbox backwards. The restrictors are in the inlets (big washers with holes in). Pull them out and put everything back together. Job done.

I always forget about Rotherhithe

That proves speed cameras are not there for safety and you would/should win in court. By warning people, they slow down and achieve the alleged aim of the camera to slow people down.

Signed and shared

I dont use the tunnel very often, maybe once every 5 years, but i use it to cross the river for free without going into central London. If i had to pay, i would go further into London instead increasing traffic and pollution there instead.

Could just be a sticky ring due to lack of use. Not sure how you could unstick it without pulling the piston out though. Maybe pour some petrol down the plug hole and let if soak for a while before doing a full oil/filter change. Dont forget another squirt of oil in the bores though before starting the bike again as petrol doesnt lubricate that well.

As far as i know, you cannot get the pistons out with the engine in the frame but someone like Gnasher will be able to confirm that.

the switch on the RHS will go from off, to side light on to headlight on. This needs to be in the fully on position first
The switch on the LHS then controls if you have high or dipped beam.
Assuming the RHS switch is on and the LHS switch is in the high beam position but you have no high (RHS bulb) illuminated except for when pushing the flash button then it looks like the switch or the connection to the loom on the LHS switch gear has a problem with the common connection to the high/low switch.
If the High beam works but low/dipped doesnt then it could be the bulb.

Also, on the side, it can only show amber lights.

It should be pointed out though, reflected light does not count on these, so (for example) a bright pink / blue/ green / etc light hidden behind the fairing that then reflects off of the engine/road/mudguard/whatever is perfectly legal as long as you cannot see the source of the light itself from the front/back/side of the vehicle.

kinked the fuel pipe or breather pipe under the tank?

Thanks. I tried those hex nuts, they are really stiff a few days back. To undo turn anticlockwise?

yes, normal bolts

Ignore the the brake caliper comment.   They will just bind or tick, excessive brake dust, you'll feel resistance/loss of performance and possible blueing of the disc/s in extreme cases.  What you're describing is drive/transmission issues.

(for now) as the OP has said at a constant speed the noise isn't there , just when accelerating. If it was the calliper the noise would potentially be different as speed increases but wouldn't stop when you stop accelerating.

As the noise appears to only be there as speed is being increased, you need to look at things that are only affected by increased load. Chain, sprockets, output shafts and alignment of all of these things (wheel alignment). Looking at brakes would be VERY low on the list.

Also bike seems to have a noise from front end like a bearing despite all wheel bearings replaced. Starts from about 15-20mph onwards makes no difference what gear it's in of if clutch is in or out wondered if anyone has had similar issue?
Thanks

Common problem is tyre wear on certain brands of tyres. You can check its not the tyre by doing one of two things. One is free, the other costs a new tyre. Try removing the front mudguard and going for a quick spin. Common culprit is actually wind noise between the mudguard and tyre.

Is this after 5-10 mins of riding?
Does it seem like all cylinders failing?
When it happens, turn the engine off and open the fuel cap gently and listen to see if there is a very gentle hiss. If my thinking is right, when you turn on the ignition again, the fuel pump will run (it wouldnt normally do more than a single click after just being turned off). If you get the hiss and pump running, time to check the fuel pipes / breather hoses are not kinked.

you will have lots of fun getting it running right with cone filters. Most who have tried have wished they never bothered.