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Topics - joebloggs
51
« on: 18 March 2016, 04:26:01 pm »
I had my stem swapped today (SRAD with FZS stem) and the lower bearing was being a pta, heated the bearing cooled the stem and still wouldn't go on easily, I hit it, stared hard at it, everything when I had an idea. Took the original bearing lower seat and turned it upside down, perfect fit, large surface area to put the drift on and less chance of damaging the bearing should I slip. With bearing in place a quick tap with hammer and drift knocks the bearing lower off the stem and bobs your uncle. I also used the original bottom yoke as a slide hammer, it obviously fits the stem so with the bearing lower in place it was just a question of hammering the bearing into submission  Now for the twat of a lower bearing outer race........
52
« on: 04 March 2016, 08:38:51 am »
Hi
Is it possible, can I loop the wires at the ECU fooling it into thinking that the sidestand is always up and the bike permanently in neutral?
I know it can be done by just bridging in the loom but I want to lighten the loom somewhat............... ahem
2000 FZS600
53
« on: 10 February 2016, 06:34:47 am »
As in the description, no fairing as it was damaged when I got the bike. Professionally resprayed in some sort of sunburnt orange/bronze, smell dent on lower side of tank (paint not cracked or chipped) and small chip on tail where rack caught it some time in the past Front guard has colour matched extender  Tail removed but the same colour as tank and front guard Local collection NG31 £125.00 ono
54
« on: 09 February 2016, 10:03:48 am »
Anyone out there lowered the top yoke when they've gone naked If so how? Thinner locking nuts and cut down steering stem? Focin yoke sits far to far above the headstock 
55
« on: 08 February 2016, 09:56:24 am »
Deefer666 suggested contacting S Baker re some engineering work I'd like doing. I see he hasn't been on the site for awhile, anybody have alternative contact details for him
Thanks
56
« on: 04 February 2016, 06:18:30 pm »
Have found plenty of trumpets for old Brit bikes but not much else. Found some beautifully machined ones in the states but dread to think what they'll cost shipped
Anyone know anyone this side of the pond selling them?
57
« on: 28 January 2016, 12:49:38 pm »
Skynyrds lost another member
58
« on: 23 January 2016, 01:45:51 pm »
Three white braided wires in one connector under the seat, what are they for?
Caught finger on angle grinder, jerked and cut into wires grrr
59
« on: 23 January 2016, 10:10:08 am »
Seems finding engineers to do small jobs is almost impossible these days, Simon replied to one of my posts and offered to tap some alloy round bar I sent him to make a rose jointed brake torque arm. I know some of you will say its not strong enough for a brake arm but its only on there for MOT purposes so it should stand up to that. Thanks again Simon 
60
« on: 16 January 2016, 05:21:11 pm »
After cutting down the rear guard. Making new brackets for the number plate etc I've decided I'm still not happy with the rear of the bike. The stock tail really doesn't work for me so drastic measures are called for. I've found a suitable tail (works for me) just need to adjust the seat sub frame rails a little. I've watched a video where the owner clamped the rails pushed/pulled them into position then welded cross bracing in to hold the frame at the desired width. He used large g cramps but as I don't need to pull the tubes as far I'm hoping to get away with ratchet straps and a length of m12 threaded rod through the two existing holes in the frame
So fingers crossed it will pull in reasonably square as really don't want the added expense of a new sub frame
Tail piece is from a Z750 twin About the only tail from that era that has deep enough sides to cover part of the standard seat frame fails.
61
« on: 31 December 2015, 04:49:43 pm »
62
« on: 30 December 2015, 08:03:42 pm »
Bloke down the road from me has filled up with derv, I've drained the tank and refilled with fresh gas, only problem is the carb drain screws have been chewed up in the past and being a v-twin (1100 Dragstar) theres not much chance of tapping them round without removing the carbs (something I'm not prepared to do just incase this little bit of help turns into a nightmare)
I've had it sort of running by squirting easy start down the air intake, I know its only burning the easy start but at least its drawing the derv out of the float bowls at the same time. Question is how bloody long is it going to take to get enough fresh fuel into the bowl to run.
Am I knocking my head against a brick wall or do you think it'll clear itself?
63
« on: 23 December 2015, 10:26:49 am »
Will need powder coating at some point but it fits well enough for my OCD to leave it as it is.   Tape used as awkward to tighten nuts and it will be coming off for coating. Possibly far to much grief just to hide the gap between the guard and the numberplate but I think it looks neater
64
« on: 19 December 2015, 07:31:41 pm »
Ti fetish becoming expensive, better get back on the crack cocaine 
65
« on: 14 December 2015, 03:50:42 pm »
Plenty on ebay but a little pricey, anyone have one kicking about the shed?
66
« on: 12 December 2015, 08:16:36 am »
This ones hurting my head. Want 12v to switch a relay but ONLY once engine is running
67
« on: 10 December 2015, 06:15:10 am »
Or more to the point can the stem's be swapped? I know every man and his dog uses R1 forks but got these cheap Answers on a postcard please 
68
« on: 04 December 2015, 01:08:25 pm »
Both side engine cases are pretty scratched up, tried polishing out the scratches but I recon I'll be through the case by the time all of the marks are out (looks like the bikes spent more time going sideways instead of forward)
I've seen some new cases on ebay about the same price many are asking for 2nd hand items.
Anybody have these are are they any good?
69
« on: 27 November 2015, 01:05:08 pm »
Got the dremmel out and some masking tape and lightened (butchered) the rear mudguard, may cut it down further after seeing all the webbing etc Yamaha designed into the thing but for now its finished bar a bit of sanding here and there Masked  Getting there  Indicator mount points  Indicators fitted, may need to space them out a few mm as almost obscured by the numberplate  Rear cut down  Time for a fag and a cuppa 
70
« on: 20 November 2015, 11:15:50 am »
I'd flatted the swing arm back, removing all the anodizing on the top and sides (all by hand as mr muscle didn't seem to touch it) and was hoping to leave it satin finish, that was a. until a. someone went and polished the rear wheel, and b. satin is harder to achieve than you'd think I brought an attachment a few years ago that allows you to fit polishing mops on an angle grinder, the mop sits to far out for my liking (becomes a giant gyroscope that you constantly battle) but if you slip you hit the part your polishing with the guard etc rather than a spinning chuck. Oh and another plus is they seem to last a little longer than drills lol  Swingarm, not completely happy with it as theres a few scratches left from sanding, didn't notice them when it was satin, but stand out a mile now   Rear wheel, not finished yet, previous owner/s must have let the wheel get into a really bad state before painting it, real mess underneath the paint, I was messing around trying to remove the paint as gently as possible, took bloody ages, next door hit it with some wet and dry and it came up like new after about half an hour (he's a bodywork specialist)   I've sprayed my disc centre matte black (same black as calipers etc) and purchased some stainless button heads to mount it so hopefully it'll look half decent when I get it all back together (wheel centres also going to be matte) Theres something else which I think will be a nice finishing touch but you'll have to wait for the next thrilling episode
71
« on: 19 November 2015, 09:20:14 pm »
72
« on: 13 November 2015, 01:23:50 pm »
73
« on: 12 November 2015, 04:04:33 pm »
I removed my swingarm for cleaning and to grease all the bearings in both pivot and the rising rate link, after refitting I've found about 4 -5 mm side play at the pivot, looking at the parts list I should have two washers (which I believe go under the dust caps) but these are missing, along with some dust seals on the link. I take it these missing washers would act like spacers/shims taking up the freeplay at the pivot point. Can anyone confirm this? The more I work on this bike the more I'm concerned about its service, or lack of, history
74
« on: 12 November 2015, 10:30:04 am »
I'm going to be naked so top speed is going to be limited by my puny arms not being able to hang on much over 100 (KMH) so has anyone fitted a 50 tooth rear and was the difference noticable (not concerned about fuel consumption)
Did it require a non standard chain length?
Anyone gone larger, say 52?
75
« on: 11 November 2015, 08:07:35 pm »
Had split the rear caliper prior to painting as suggested by someone on here, after looking at the pistons I noticed one was further out than the other, and after trying to move it I understood why, seized rear caliper syndrome. On the bench, gently rotating said piston reviled only one seal each side, someone obviously didn't think two seals were required Tbh the pistons look fine and hopefully the remaining seal will be OK to reuse, just hope I can source some outer seals (dust?)
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