Rear disc bolts

[james43]

Hi all ,


1st time poster.


Got a 2005 55 last of the Gen1 Fazer 1000's.


Had it 2 years but never been completely happy with it.


I bought it for an absolute song at £1750 but it was rough when I had it.


The bloke who had it before me had tried to turn into the "rat look" whatever that is, it had been sprayed a matt black that looked terrible had all the stickers and mirrors removed and filled in.


As these bikes are bulletproof I thought i'd tinker with it and get it back up to standard.


There was nothing actually wrong with the bike it was just abused unloved and very weathered.


Anyway i've stripped it right down and i'm in the process of a full respray and overhaul.


A full engine service, new exup valve and cables and she runs like a different bike (we are now starting to bond lol)


However a more pressing issue I've chewed up the allen key bolts on the rear disc stripping the wheels down to be sprayed


I cant seem to find replacements anywhere, anyone got any suggestions


I will post some pics once done as i don't want to jump the gun


But I recon about another 2-3 weeks. If I can get the disc bolts...


Cheers


James
Newport S-Wales

[Fazerider]

Wemoto do them at a couple of pounds each... or £4 for stainless.
I replaced mine a couple of weeks ago using A4 stainless ones from this guy:
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/JPK-Fasteners
A fraction of the price and very quick delivery. The head is a little slimmer and the Allen key required is one size down from the OEM ones, but they do the job and look OK too.

[james43]

Thankyou i'll have a look now.


James.

[Tmation]

I would be careful about using just any old bolt. Disc bolts, calliper bolts etc are normally a different tensile strength.


I would buy some proper ones from Yamaha or pro bot or the like (even the wemoto ones if proper type).


I wouldn't want my disc bolts to sheer off during braking.

[Bracechenko]

 

They need to be high tensile bolts for the discs

[Fazerider]

Yes, agreed. I wouldn't recommend using them on the front, but that's because the thread on general purpose bolts is cut all the way up to the head (OEM has a plain shank of the full 8mm diameter where it's in contact with the disc) rather than concerns about the material... A4 is tough.


I admit I don't have the details for the Gen1 to hand, but on my FZS600 the disc bolts are 60mm from the axle compared with the contact patch at 275mm.
To take an ultra-conservative estimate and assume there's a fat pillion and luggage on the back and we're braking at 1G using the rear brake, this would imply about 3000N of force.
The brake disc mounts experience 275/60 times as much which gives 13750N of shear force.
Shear strength of one bolt of 6mm diameter (allowing for the lost thickness due to the thread) of A4 stainless steel is approximately 15000N... and there are six of them. That felt like a good enough safety margin for me, particularly since I don't ride heavily laden, but you should make your own choice.

[paul1606]

just had my wheels powdercoated on my gen1 being fussy i replaced the bearings & disc bolts, your welcome to the old ones if they are the same? still useable as i say  me just being finicky. but if you want new i got mine from AJ Suttons (Yamaha spares)

[james43]

Many thanks for the offer Paul but I took Fazerider up on his link and bought a set from JPK-Fastners.


Hopefully be here soon and I might  have her back up and running next week.


Picked an awesome colour like a real dark metallic grey almost a graphite grey.


The panels are very striking now .


Quite excited, just the wheels to do.


James

[paul1606]

No problem james if anybody else reading the post wants them same applies because they are just sitting in the garage. Get some before & after photos sorted 

[PaulSmith]

...
However a more pressing issue I've chewed up the allen key bolts on the rear disc stripping the wheels down to be sprayed
...

Having stripped the head, how did you then free the bolt. I have one bolt that looks like it is going to give me trouble and I want to be prepared before I start that job.

[Tmation]

@ Paul Smith, they wil be thredlocked in so best best is to impact screw driver, someting like this:


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professional-1-2-inch-Impact-Screw-Driver-Screwdriver-Set-13-Bits-NEW-/120848075504?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1c231b4af0#ht_3555wt_1180


Get a good one or the cheap bits will do more damage 

[PaulSmith]

Hah! I never even thought of an impact driver! Thanks a million.

[Fazerider]

My usual technique is to warm the wheel over a low flame on the gas hob for half an hour, the difference in thermal expansion coefficients of the different metals means the bolts are much easier to undo. On the rear this failed for a couple of the bolts... either the threadlock had gathered strength over the 14 years since assembly or they'd ran out and used No-More-Nails.
I ended up welding a length of scrap metal to the head of the bolt, the extra leverage combined with the very high temperature cooking the threadlock compound did the trick.

[GrahamB]

If they wont budge using the correct hex fitting ie they start to round off I hammer a torx bit in there instead. Might sound rough but has never let me down yet.

[PaulSmith]

Impact driver did the job! Threads were damaged but not destroyed and I was able to clean them up with a tapper. New disc mounted with new bolts and fresh threadlock and now all is good in the world.