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Messages - stet
76
« on: 05 January 2018, 11:41:55 pm »
OK.
Can you try this:
(1) Remove all PS2 BNC plugs.
(2) Push the four contact jack fully home into and out of the TV jack socket at least ten times (hopefully to clean the contacts and excercise the jack socket internal switch- if fitted).
(3) Connect the yellow PS2 plug to the TV BNC sockets in turn.
(4) Which connection gives you a picture (there should be no sound from the TV left or right speakers).
No BNC connectors mentioned, that would massively simplify things?
Whoops BNC= Phono. Typo- will correct original post.
77
« on: 05 January 2018, 11:38:54 pm »
what you are doing will never work since your are trying to get a signal "OUT" of an "IN" port.
It requires a special cable with a Sony unique plug to plug into the Sony unique PS2 "AV1 RGB" port. that will give you your Sound and video out.
Thats what I have got and using
Wait a cotton pickin minute by all the gods I think you are on to something.
The cable in your picture has metal on the outside but mine is plastic is that the difference or is that just a better quality cable in your picture
I hope you don't mind me answering this question which was addressed to you unfazed. The PS2 plug with the metal on the outside is a better plug than one with a plastic outside but the metal only acts as a local screen and has no affect on the functioning of the cable (other screen connections are included on the contacts of the PS2 connector). Of course, the metal version will wear better.
78
« on: 05 January 2018, 11:21:03 pm »
OK.
Can you try this:
(1) Remove all PS2 BNC phono plugs.
(2) Push the four contact jack fully home into and out of the TV jack socket at least ten times (hopefully to clean the contacts and exercise the jack socket internal switch- if fitted).
(3) Connect the yellow PS2 phone plug to the TV BNC phono sockets in turn.
(4) Which connection gives you a picture (there should be no sound from the TV left or right speakers).
80
« on: 05 January 2018, 10:42:42 pm »
Now I am getting some where the one that works the best is 231 but with the 3.5 plug all the way in I get a buz and a flickering screen until I partly pull out the 3.5 plug and then get a perfect screen and no buz but only sound out of 1 speaker - the right and if I very very gently twiddle the plug I get sound out of the left speaker but not the right no amount of twiddling at 231 gets the sound out of both speakers unless it is a loud buz with no vid.
I am getting close to a beer and if that happens I may well need a new tv and PS
I have created some confusion as I changed the sequence from numbers to colours. Can you say which colour order your 231 relates to? Did you try all combinations of colours?
81
« on: 05 January 2018, 07:04:58 pm »
OK I will try swapping around combos but before I do will it damage anything and also why is there a 4th section on the 3.5 jack when only 3 go in
Don't worry: you will not damage anything by changing the order of the signals. Thee phonos into a four-contact jack is correct (three signals [RWY] and one common earth [the three screens of the phono plugs]). There are six possible combinations of three signals: just try all combinations and see if you find a combination that works. To make it simpler to do, here are all the combinations: RWY RYW WRY WYR YRW YWR
83
« on: 19 December 2017, 09:34:14 am »
Many flammable fluids will work but, for best results, a high volatility, low flash-point, 'low residue' liquid is advisable: petrol, alcohol, starting fluid (ether), would be good. Lubricants, for example, leave a 'residue' (coating of oil).
84
« on: 18 December 2017, 06:08:48 pm »
Thanks @Stet. No sweat! However, the battery is not great, so need a new one anyway. So long as the engine is cranking at normal full speed, the battery should not be the cause of the problem. Need to get a can of brake cleaner - I've heard that will do  You never know what brake cleaner is. It could be CTC which does not burn. Has anyone heard of tight exhaust valve clearances causing these kinds of problems? Tight exhaust and/or inlet valve clearances can cause big problems but, from the symptoms that you describe, it is unlikely to be the root cause (in my opinion that is).
85
« on: 18 December 2017, 09:36:43 am »
An old dodge if you suspect lack of, or bad fuel, in the engine inlet is to sprinkle petrol or alcohol or starting fluid on the air filter (don't overdo it).
(1) If the engine starts and runs for a minute or so, you know there is a problem with the fuel/air.
(2) If the engine starts and then, after a minute or so, runs fairly normally, you know that the fuel/air mixture at start up is not sufficiently rich for starting (choke).
(3) If the engine will not start you know that the core problem is not the start fuel/air.
(Note that I have no actual experience with the FZS 1000)
86
« on: 13 December 2017, 12:50:54 am »
A De Havilland Otter hits a Canadian mountain. Rex is thrown clear of the wreck in his carry-cot, but his nurse and everyone else, perish. After a while a she-wolf, hearing him crying, drags the cot to her den.
For eight years Rex lives with a pack of timber wolves. He walks on all fours, hunts caribou, eats raw meat, and howls at the moon. But one day a trapper is amazed to discover him caught in a snare. He takes Rex back to civilization, and soon he is reunited with his family in London, England.
Being a bright lad, Rex quickly learns to walk upright and talk. He does so well at school that he attends university where he graduates with a first class honors degree. He then goes to medical college for five years to qualify as a surgeon. He is just about to take up a post at Saint Barts Hospital, London, but, unfortunately, he is run-over while chasing a Ford Mondeo down the Old Kent Road.
87
« on: 12 December 2017, 11:59:41 pm »
Did notice that, but this seemed to be the correct thread for jokes. Just read the whole thing from the start: glad to see that there are not too many restrictions on the content. 
88
« on: 12 December 2017, 09:11:22 pm »
89
« on: 12 December 2017, 10:24:57 am »
LINK YOUTUBE VIDEOS FOCU help: http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/page,howto.htmlJUST POST A LINK TO YOUTUBE VIDEO: (1) Open YouTube video in YouTube (2) L Click on 'SHARE' (lower right of YouTube video image) (3) L Click on 'copy' or press 'CTL' and 'C' keys (4) Open FOCU target post (either new post or modify an existing post) (5) Place cursor in FOCU post where link is required to start (6) Past clipboard contents into FOCU post ('CTL' and 'V') Example: https://youtu.be/hxZF--sDkCMEMBED YOUTUBE VIDEO (to play on host site) WITHOUT DISPLAYING YOUTUBE THUMBNAIL (1) Open YouTube video in YouTube (2) L Click on 'SHARE' (lower right of YouTube video image) (3) L Click on 'EMBED' (3) L Click on 'copy' or press 'CTL' and 'C' keys (4) Open FOCU target post (either new post or modify an existing post) (5) Place cursor in FOCU post where link is required to start (6) Past clipboard contents into FOCU post ('CTL' and 'V') (7) Delete all characters except the link between the two quotation marks. Example: <iframe width="560" height="315" src=" http://www.youtube.com/embed/hxZF--sDkCM" frameborder="0" gesture="media" allow="encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe> http://www.youtube.com/embed/hxZF--sDkCM
90
« on: 12 December 2017, 12:07:38 am »
oops!
91
« on: 11 December 2017, 11:58:09 pm »
Looks good!
92
« on: 11 December 2017, 10:24:54 am »
My issue is that I do have some very good expensive gloves that are both warm and have protection, Racer Titian these in the picture. But because of crap circulation in the fingers they get cold, my hands - per-say do not get cold neither do my thumbs, so that is why I was thinking of inner glove and only to heat the fingers. The Racer Titan gloves look good. The electrical power just to heat your fingers may be less than to heat your whole hand, especially with an already well insulated glove. I didn't explain fully in the link to the eBay gloves (and they were only an example and may not be the optimum choice): I meant to say that you could probably use the electronics (batteries, charger, etc) maybe even unravel the heating element, for your own design heated glove liner, especially in view of the low cost. Of course, Dudeofrude's suggestion of a ready-made inner heating glove is the way, unless you are keen on some experimentation and a custom approach.
93
« on: 10 December 2017, 06:40:59 pm »
94
« on: 10 December 2017, 10:59:55 am »
This reminded me very much of velvet underground
(Them ) your best rock
Velvet Underground 
95
« on: 08 December 2017, 10:10:06 pm »
Thanks for all that. No probs would 4W be a good temp I am no expert in MC heated gloves, but as far as I know, 8W minimum each glove would be better. 2A is already hitting the AA batteries pretty hard, so it would not be realistic to lower the heating element resistance (and increase the current drain and thus the power). Four AA batteries in series for each glove would give 4V which, with a 2 Ohm glove heating element, would generate 8W for each glove. But would the wire length also be a factor and if I have it going up my sleeve to an inside pocket then that will also be heating which I do not need, so would that section just be a normal wire with very little resistance so it does not heat up. Quite right: all conductors (wire, connectors, switches, battery holder contacts, etc) between the batteries and heating element in the gloves must be sufficiently substantial to ensure that only an acceptable amount of power is lost. A 10% power loss should be acceptable, so the total resistance of all conductors, in this case, should not exceed 0.1 Ohms (with a 1 Ohm heating element). With care, this should be achievable.
96
« on: 08 December 2017, 08:54:45 pm »
Yep AA, and thinking of 2 per glove - even if that would only give 1/2 hour of heat would be ok as it give me another 1/2 riding
OK. With two Eneloop pro 2,500mA/H batteries in series per glove, you would get approx 1v*2= 2V average per glove and, say, with an average current of 2A (2,000mA), that would give you a duration of around 30 minutes and 2V*2A= 4W of average heating per glove. To get this, the resistance of the heating wire in each glove should be 2V/2A= 1 Ohm. Attached is the data sheet for an Eneloop pro 2,500mA/h NMH AA battery:
97
« on: 08 December 2017, 06:59:41 pm »
Ah, got it. What physical size case are your batteries (AA)?
98
« on: 08 December 2017, 06:38:42 pm »
Best rock:
Best reggae:
Best folk:
Best country:
99
« on: 01 December 2017, 05:21:12 pm »
Been looking into this a little more and came across home made heated inner gloves using something called kanthal wire but they started showing graphs and talking about ohlms law and stuff and the possibility of the battery melting.
Can anyone with electronics expertise help me build some, the wire is in different gauges and my plan is to use 2500 rechargeable battery's 2 for each glove.
I only need enough power to heat the second half of 8 fingers and only for 1 or max 2 hours and only on the backs of the fingers.
Heated grips just wont do it for me as its only the fingers than get cold due to sh1t circulation, my winter gloves are good but after about 1/2 hour of riding the fingers start to get cold, my winter riding is a quick 1- 1 1/2 hour blast or until my fingers are too cold. so I only need to add extra heat for about 1 hour.
I was out for about 3 hours yesterday in one of the coldest days of the autumn/winter so far but I was only pootling around from shop to shop in traffic and I was fine but that is not what I usually do when I am out and the main cold factor is wind chill which is why I am thinking of just heating the back of the fingers.
I have looked into hand guards but they just wont fit.
The procedure for defining the design for home-made heated gloves is fairly straight-forward, from the electrical point of view. Of course, the physical construction is another matter. But it is advisable to use a battery control circuit (BCC) (available on eBay for example) The BCC has two functions: (1) Limit the maximum current that the battery will supply in case of a short circuit (2) Disconnect the battery when the battery terminal voltage drops to a certain level due to discharge: a lithium battery may get damaged if the terminal voltage drops below a specified voltage. Just a few points: (1) There are a load of rip-off batteries around, so only buy main-brand batteries (Sanyo, Panasonic, Samsung, Sony, etc) from a reliable source. (2) You say that you are going for 2,500 mA/H batteries, but 3,500 mA/H batteries are available at a reasonable price. This will heat your gloves for a proportionally longer period. (3) The capacity of a battery is much lower at low temperatures, so if you can house the batteries in a warm area of your bike (25 deg C is is ideal) that would be an advantage, although when a battery provides power it self-heats so that will help (4) The charger has a big impact on battery life and battery performance, so get a good smart charger and one that charges the batteries individually. As you are planning to have 4 batteries a charger with four individual charging ports is advisable. This is just some opening info for you to consider. If you wish to go any further, maybe open a new thread. stet
100
« on: 22 November 2017, 02:04:39 pm »
Seriously.
What get my goat is why Samsung built the Galaxy 6 Edge in a such away that you cannot remove or replace the battery.
Mine is 14 months old and the battery only holds its charge for about 8 hours, it seems every time I go to make a foccing call there is 3% left and it immediately shuts down.
Nearly £600 for 14 months use, £42+ a month without call costs or data. 
Contract next time
It is possible to change the battery in a Galaxy 6 Edge:
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