Not specific to the Fazer 1000 but generally it will start charging at not much above tick over speed, say about 1,500 rpm, if you don't have any lights switched on. If you have the lights on it will be at a slightly higher speed because of the extra load. The generator will be producing current as soon as it turns over but will probably only reach it's maximum output at about 4,000 rpm. or more. That doesn't mean it will charge the battery any faster at 4000 revs than at say 2,500 revs because the input to the battery is regulated to protect the battery from too much current. Just how long it would take to bring a battery back to 100% depends on many factors as well as how low it is to start with. Far instance a good long run in the country side at reasonable speed with few stops will do a lot more good than the same amount of time spent in town with frequent stops at traffic lights and junctions on tickover with brake light on and winkers going and aggressive use of the horn. Thinking about it, a ride in the country side will probably do more good for your personal well being as well.
If it fell onto the twistgrip side the impact on the end of the handle bar may have deformed the end slightly. That could cause the throttle to stick. Or the bar-end weight may now be rubbing on the end of the twist grip. you could remove the weight and see if the throttle still sticks.
If you still have the original mirrors on the easiest way would be to fit the later mirrors as used on the fox eye model. i.e. 2002-2003. They have a longer stem. Made a big difference for me.
Mines a FZS600 and I do the header nuts every year and reapply some copper grease. Never had a problem, but if your's have not been done before and they don't slacken fairly easily I think I would be inclined to leave them alone. Maybe apply some easing oil on them a day or two before you attempt it.
Don't know where you would get exactly what you want but you can get M6 threaded coupling nuts about 18mm long. These are just a very deep nut. Like these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M6-COUPLING-NUTS-QTY-2-/170734629943?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item6d710a1f09 You could probably get these from any local fastener supplier but would still have to file or grind the end into a round shape to fit through your clamp plate. (I'm assuming you don't have a lathe or you would have made one already). I'm thinking the spigot on the nut would need to be at least 7.5mm dia so you will probably have to open up the hole in the plate to about 8mm for it to fit in.
Had the two youngest grandkids (and their dog) for the day. Took them for a coastal walk and exploration of rocks, with lunch in a small cafe. They loved it and so did I, so all round. Saw a couple of other oldies out with young kids for the day on a similar mission.
The FZS600 clutch shouldn't be particularly heavy even with the stronger clutch springs. If not already done so you could try rerouteing the cable to give gentler sweeps in the bends and not clipping it tightly in position. Lubricating the cable may help. They can wear over time and cause increased friction, so a new cable may be in order. If that doesn't solve it a more difficult option would be to fit a handlebar lever setup with a smaller distance between the lever pivot and the cable end. The down side to that is that unless you have more reach on the lever you get less movement at the clutch end with the possibility of clutch drag. For a heavy clutch try a Triumph Trident from the 70's, that really is a feat of strength .
I think Fazerider is probably wondering where you are going to fit the chip! The only chips I have come across on my FZS600 are in the paintwork . Of course I could be wrong. Nice list of mods. I find a 12v auxiliary socket very handy and have fix it into the fairing side panel. Connected straight to the battery with an in-line fuse. Some prefer to come from a feed that is only live when the ignition is on.
Not sure which brackets you mean. If it's the small steel "Z" shaped brackets about 30mm long that attach the back of the fairing to the frame, then I think I might have a couple you can have. If it's for attaching the black inner panels then I think you are out of luck because they are part of the panel. In which case time for some plastic welding or some nifty bodging or maybe eBay.
It's not as easy as you might first think. (There was info on the old yuku site but I don't know if you can still get at it.) From what I remember when I did this mod you need the Mk2 front mounting bracket and also to make up some brackets for both sides at the back end of the fairing. The Mk2 clocks are slightly different but the Mk1 clocks will fit no problem. You will also need to make changes to the headlight wiring because each light has a double filament bulb and a pilot in each one, as opposed to the Mk1 set up. (I have the wiring diagram for the way I did it. If your interested I'll post it up on here). You do end up with much better lights than the Mk1 of course.
To give you an idea (and if it works) here is a photo of the rear mountings I did. I used the existing mounting points on the frame as I didn't want to start welding other brackets on. Also utilised the Mk2 small fairing bracket because I had them and it was easier that way.
I wouldn't use anything wooden gets very slippy when wet.
Very true! However Gringo's suggestion of a couple of planks seems an easy way round it if you could fix something onto the planks to provide grip. Some of the wooden bridges round here for cycles and pedestrians have wire mesh attached for grip, but probably not be good enough for a motor bike on a steep slope. Someone may be able to suggest something better? I think you would also need to provide some sort of retainer to ensure the planks don't move when in use. Final thought, two scaffolding planks together will be very heavy so maybe a couple of removable retainers for that as well.
So, nearside is the further side from the driver... where's the sense in that?
Since the tyre question seems to have been answered here is another thought. On the motorway we call the lanes nearest the centre the outside lanes. Surely they are the inside lanes and the hard shoulder is on the outside .
I had a red top type replacement last week for a bike that has been on sorn for a while. As said before they are replacing all registration documents and I read somewhere that the whole process will take till November 2012.
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It's not as easy as you might first think. (There was info on the old yuku site but I don't know if you can still get at it.) From what I remember when I did this mod you need the Mk2 front mounting bracket and also to make up some brackets for both sides at the back end of the fairing. The Mk2 clocks are slightly different but the Mk1 clocks will fit no problem. You will also need to make changes to the headlight wiring because each light has a double filament bulb and a pilot in each one, as opposed to the Mk1 set up. (I have the wiring diagram for the way I did it. If your interested I'll post it up on here). You do end up with much better lights than the Mk1 of course.
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