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Messages - limax2
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51
« on: 04 February 2020, 07:57:10 pm »
I can't even see the level through the sight glass, its brown so I imagine its dirty from gunk build up?
The sight glass might appear brown because the oil level is above it. If you lean the bike over to the left, either by someone else holding it or lean it on something, the oil will drain away from the sight glass and you can see if it clears. If it does then the light problem lies elsewhere. Possibly the wire from the switch having chafed and grounding or a faulty switch.
52
« on: 28 January 2020, 10:25:52 pm »
I bought one of these thirteen years ago. One of the best things i ever bought for making life easier as you get older and start noticing it. The one i got is identical in size to the 800 lb one you are looking at. I find it plenty big enough for my 600 Fazer but i guess an advantage of the bigger one is there's more room on the table for all the tools and bits and pieces that end up on it from the bike. In my case I wouldn't want anything bigger because I've not much room to spare in the garage, but if space isn't a problem then the 1000 one might be a better bet for the extra cost. There are some about that aren't even the length of a motorbike unless you include the ramp, which I would certainly avoid. Not surprisingly you see them for sale secondhand! I've never found a need to remove the lift out section at the back to remove the rear wheel. On mine (like the 800) it could do with a longer ramp so it's not so steep when pushing the bike up. Be aware the whole thing has a tendency to slide forward when the front wheel starts to go up the ramp, even with the front two jack things screwed down. I lost balance and nearly dropped the bike when this unexpectedly happened. I always chock mine at the front with a length of timber to the base of a solidly mounted lathe in front. As already stated they are a heavy piece of kit and not a one man job to get in a van or on a trailer. Definitely brinks a new joy to messing with the bike. 
53
« on: 23 January 2020, 03:35:49 pm »
Thanks for that, some useful tips there. I didn't know about the built in fuse or the Luter connectors. You do see some right botched wiring jobs at times so it's nice to see the neat job you've done there. That box of connectors should keep you going for a while. 
54
« on: 20 January 2020, 09:18:04 pm »
2 fantastic looking bikes, i'm a little jealous.
Off topic but how'd you get on with the bubble screen on the box eye? I've read mixed reports.
Thanks for the complement. The photo was taken a few years ago just after i'd rebuilt the bike and done the fairing mod. They are not always as clean as that. Personally I find the bubble screen a big improvement. With the standard screen I used to get more wind blast and buffeting onto the front of the helmet. Nothing too dramatic but a definite improvement with the taller screen. Probably not as many bugs on the visor either.
55
« on: 20 January 2020, 08:41:46 pm »
Glad you both approve of the wiring diagram. It has stud the test of time and given no trouble in the few years since I did it. For no good reason here is a photo of the bike. The one with the modified electrics is a 1998 model but fitted with the later Foxeye fairing.
56
« on: 17 January 2020, 03:51:57 pm »
On the 2002/3 Foxeye FZS600, and presumably on the 1,000, the headlights are indeed controlled by a couple of relays. When I fitted a Foxeye fairing and lights with twin main beam and twin dip to a 1998 FZS600 I had to do a bit of head scratching because the earlier wiring harness didn't lend itself to taking the set-up and relays from the 2002/3 model. Instead i came up with the layout shown in the (poor quality) picture here which uses a couple of bog standard relays. As anyone with a Boxeye knows those lights are very poor so now ten times better.
57
« on: 06 December 2019, 08:11:52 pm »
Anything I can do to check there is nothing seriously wrong?
Not trying to be clever but I would say take it for a ride and if it runs o.k. then you will be fine.
58
« on: 14 November 2019, 08:01:39 pm »
coffee. The reason it was so hard to undue could be due to it being assemble with some thread locking compound such as Loctite 243 or similar, rather than having been tightened up super tight. Of course knowing that doesn't make it any easier to undue. 
59
« on: 26 August 2019, 11:04:12 am »
14.2 volts on you dash mounted gauge sounds fine. I think mine shows about 14.5 volts when I've measured it at the battery with a few revs on the engine. The Yamaha manual quotes a no load regulated voltage of 14.1 to 14.9.
I have zero knowledge on LED stuff.
60
« on: 05 July 2019, 10:26:06 pm »
DAM....i got the +1 and -1 sprockets and a new chain...and joined them with the tool that they give u with the set...
Only realised after that the chain goes thru the frame around the swing arm pivot...so had to drill open the joiner link..ruining it (JAYSUS they're hard)
and now waiting for new joiner from ebay... 
Having joined the chain you could still have fitted it by removing the swinging arm and used the opportunity to give all the linkages etc a good clean and re-greased all the pivots. Just think how much better you would have felt after doing that for the bike. I found your observations on the revised gearing interesting as I might be thinking of new chain and sprockets myself before too long. The original chain has now done 56,000 miles and still seems o.k. but the rear sprocket is starting to show signs of wear. Now on it's third front sprocket. I agree that first gear seems too low setting off most of the time and having come from a single cylinder bike I was always going for another gear when up to speed on a motorway. I guess I've got used to it now and I'm happy to let it spin away.
61
« on: 23 April 2019, 10:59:12 pm »
For looks I can't choose, but when it gets dark the foxeye wins every time because it's nice to be able to see the road in front.
62
« on: 04 April 2019, 08:38:14 pm »
Glad you found the cause of the problem. Always good when someone reports back after finding the answer to a problem so others can sometimes learn from it.
63
« on: 18 March 2019, 05:00:39 pm »
An interesting account and I'm sure like me everyone is extremely please you sorted out your problems.
64
« on: 16 March 2019, 08:36:00 pm »
If there is that much play in the bearing that you can notice it in chain slack then the bearing must be well and truly shot at. I would first check that the nut on the bolt that goes through the swinging arm to the frame is tight.
65
« on: 27 February 2019, 09:48:02 pm »
I got a magnetic tank bag from Aldi a few years back and it is still serving me well. I don't seem to be able to master the art of travelling light so it gets nearly full just on a day trip with flask, camera, first aid kit, and other junk. You can increase capacity with a separate zip off section underneath the main section, but I found that makes it too high and floppy so I don't use that and rely on panniers/top box for extra capacity on longer trips. Aldi usually have the motorbike stuff early in the fine weather riders season. Not a very good picture of the tank bag but at least the bikes clean.
66
« on: 14 February 2019, 05:52:08 pm »
Great bikes. I have the smaller version 600 which i got at 9,500 miles and now on 55,000. Apart from a few little mods of my own it has only had routine maintenance like regular oil and filter changes, checked valve clearances a couple of times, (always within spec.), re-greased swinging arm and linkage pivots a couple of times, now on third front sprocket but still original chain and rear sprocket (Scottoiler fitted). New battery a couple of years ago and tyres and fuel as required. Still brings a smile to my face and does all I want from a bike so also no plans to retire it.
67
« on: 03 February 2019, 11:57:46 am »
That's midlands. Don't us Southern Foccers get a look in? 
Do you Southerners actually turn out in winter time? 
68
« on: 12 January 2019, 08:35:16 pm »
No body has mentioned that when the oil is warm it will have expanded and therefore higher in the window than when cold.
Must admit I've never noticed the difference and anyway my light has never come on so I don't get concerned about it.
I still change the oil at approx 4,000 miles and check the level now and again, but have never had to top it up between oil changes. Bike now done about 55k.
Doesn't take much oil from first appearing in the window to going beyond the top, so a bit of care required at the final stages of filling.[size=78%] [/size]
Expansion will be minimal. So ignore it.
Oil will be up around the top of the engine when warm rather than all in the sump. This is why it is LOWER in the window when warm and why the manual says to check it when WARM
The reason to wait a few minutes after warming up is so that most of that oil drains back into the sump. Just for interest the increase in volume is :- Volumetric expansion coefficient of engine oil is 0.00070 per deg C Oil capacity say 2.7ltrs = 2,700c.c. Lets say temperature difference from cold to warm is 40 deg C Change in oil volume = 0.00070 x 2700 x 40 = 75.6c.c. To use a previous measuring scale that’s about three normal egg cups worth. I’ve no idea what that difference in volume represents in terms of height in the site glass and never bothered about it. Maybe I’ll have to check the oil level when cold and then again when warm after standing a few minutes and see if my calculation theory is total garbidge. 
69
« on: 11 January 2019, 09:58:01 pm »
This is what I love about this site, I've been here for years and still get some brilliant ideas being posted.
70
« on: 11 January 2019, 09:42:49 pm »
No body has mentioned that when the oil is warm it will have expanded and therefore higher in the window than when cold.
Must admit I've never noticed the difference and anyway my light has never come on so I don't get concerned about it.
I still change the oil at approx 4,000 miles and check the level now and again, but have never had to top it up between oil changes. Bike now done about 55k.
Doesn't take much oil from first appearing in the window to going beyond the top, so a bit of care required at the final stages of filling.[size=78%] [/size]
71
« on: 14 December 2018, 05:31:55 pm »
I raced in the M.G.P. over a ten year period from 1972 when the top speed of my bikes was no more than 125mph. I remember thinking at the time it was a crazy speed to be going in places like Kirk Micheal, more so in the early couple of laps of practice until you settled into it all, but at the same time a great thrill that was never quite the same at short circuit racing. At the time I had a young family and my mother used to tell me I had no business doing such a dangerous sport. I was already short circuit racing when I met my wife and she never tried to discourage me from racing and we always enjoyed our racing holidays in the I.O.M. as a family and the kids grew up going to race meetings. After i stopped racing and as i have got older I started to see the wisdom of my mothers words, but didn't see it at the time. As it turned out I escaped any serious injury's and as a family we have many happy memories of the racing years. My enjoyment of spectating at the I.O.M. has definitely diminished as a result of the number of riders killed when i have been there, to the extent i very rarely go these days. Every time another rider is killed i think it should be stopped but at other times I think why should others be denied the experience of racing there when I enjoyed it so much. A radical suggestion of mine to make it safer would be to introduce speed limiters to the bikes for safety reasons, but that would also even things up a bit and brink it back more to the skill of the rider.
72
« on: 06 December 2018, 06:22:54 pm »
So I've got my upgraded nut and it is the right thickness overall, but I wasn't expecting it to be hollowed out in the middle making the thread thickness basically the same as a 9 mm nut. Is this right?
Look at the drawing I posted earlier in this thread. You will see the following. The 12mm nut is hollowed out 1mm more than the 9mm nut, but when fitted this is all in the are of the undercut on the shaft thread so doesn't effect the thread engagement. On the 9mm nut the nut thread overlaps the shaft thread slightly where the shaft is undercut. At the outside end the 12mm nut comes to the end of the shaft whereas the 9mm stops short. so you gain about 2mm to 3mm thread engagement above the original approx. 5mm engagement.
73
« on: 26 November 2018, 05:28:34 pm »
I have an oxy/propane setup which does most of what I need. No good for welding of course but my small mig welder fills that gap. I don’t use it a lot so with no rental to pay that suits me fine.
The bottles are from a local Hobbyweld stockist and although a bit expensive to start with there is no ongoing cost other than for refill and in the unlikely event I want to jack in with them I could just return the bottles and get most of the initial purchase price refunded. Maybe not the cheapest way of buying the gas if you use a lot but with the amount I use I’ve not had to get a refill yet.
I’m a 600 owner so in response to PieEaters remark maybe you 1000 types need to stick bits together more often 😲
74
« on: 26 November 2018, 05:09:44 pm »
Welcome to the site Keezo. If you have proper power to the connection in the headlight plugs (sockets) then it points towards a bad earth connection. However if you are measuring that power with a volt meter bear in mind you can get a 12volt reading even with a high resistance in the feed circuit, such as a poor contact in a switch or connector as others have suggested. i.e it can pass a few milliamperes to give a voltage reading but not enough amps to light the main bulbs. To check the earth connection before pulling switches apart you could try placing a bulb in the socket and run a separate wire from the bulb body to some bare metal on the frame and if it then lights up the problem is with the earth connection. Possible a Brocken earth wire.
Be interesting to know if the tail light was coming on, although I’m not sure what that would indicate without studying the wiring diagram. Likewise the instrument lights working or not might help to narrow the problem source down. There is always an answer to these things, just a matter of finding it!
75
« on: 26 November 2018, 10:08:35 am »
This is the original post from five years ago. http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,5252.0.htmlIt is three pages long with quite a lot of useful discussion and photo's, but don't let that put you off as it is just a matter of following the wiring diagram on page 1 and connecting the wires as shown. It is wired differently to the Foxeye (Mk2) method as that has changes to the main wiring harness from the Boxeye (Mk1) harness and uses different relays. The method shown here gives exactly the same result and uses bog standard relays available from most car accessory shops etc. and in my opinion is a much easier option than trying to copy the Foxeye method. The reason for making small brackets to support the fairing sides is that the mounting brackets on the Mk1 frame are in a slightly different position to the Mk2. Don't hesitate to ask if you need further help or clarification and anyway let us know how you get on.
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