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Messages - Screwdriver
1
« on: 22 November 2021, 09:50:52 pm »
2
« on: 15 November 2021, 12:05:17 pm »
Where are we at with this? Is it possible to get some sort of certificate or evidence so that my trusty Fazer thou ('03) can be ULEZ exempt?
Short answer...Yes.
Long winded journey....https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=24907.msg296166#msg296166
I read through that and I do not see the answer to my question specifically regarding the earlier '03 (in my case) Fazer 1000. Do I have to write to Yamaha or Saddo Khan or both? does anyone have a CoC or whtever document which states this type of vehicle should be ULEZ exempt which they might be willing to share with me?If I can obtain proof that this vehicle type is exempt then I can push through whatever paperchase may be required. What I cannot do is pay an extortionate amount to do so (why do you think I am still riding about on this old bus). Sorry to sound cross but I keep this machine tip top and there's no way I can afford a new Euro 3 anything. Makes me spit when I see heavily polluting vehicles cluttering up the road which are clearly not "compliant" in the real world on anything other than paper..
3
« on: 04 November 2021, 08:18:30 pm »
Where are we at with this? Is it possible to get some sort of certificate or evidence so that my trusty Fazer thou ('03) can be ULEZ exempt?
4
« on: 19 January 2020, 01:55:37 pm »
You've all seen this before...  Hello again. Still here, still hanging onto the old bus.
5
« on: 24 June 2014, 08:00:06 am »
Airbox intake snorkel clear?
It was that exactly. I had fitted a new battery an treated it to a foam caddy - which blocked the air intake!   Doh! Anybody want a perfectly good fuel pump? S.
6
« on: 21 June 2014, 12:42:01 pm »
Any clever clogs on here because currently, that doesn't include me.[/size]Venerable Fazer Thou had issues with battery,largely through my use of the wrong charger(s) and battery(s).Installed new fully charged battery and during the install I must have left the ignition on because there was a lot of chatter from (I assume) the fuel pump.Fuel pump was not priming at start up but seemed ok on the bench later. Refitted seemed ok.First test ride it wouldn't take anything over 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. It would baulk and splutter then die.Second attempt same thing except this time it blew the 10A fuse.Stripped and inspected pump, tested ok on bench, tested ok on bike, refitted same issue though it never blew another fuse.Fitted new pump which sounds much healthier but the same issue! 1/4 to half throttle and it coughs and dies. Roll off the throttle and it's fine.My first thoughts are fried ECU or perhaps a dodgy EXUP system but I wouldn't expect the EXUP to kill all power then come back and I would expect to see a fault code displayed on start up.Anyone have any other ideas because at the moment, I'm stumped. Going out to have a look at the EXUP and especially the wiring. I really don't want to strip the carbs for fault finding, they are a bastard to get out and I can't see how one carb could develop a fault affecting everything and all four carbs having a mechanical fuel issue is unlikely I would think.Screwd.[/color]
7
« on: 17 April 2014, 04:11:09 pm »
So how does this work?
[/size][/size]Well, what a lot of people seem to ignore is that if you heat up the male thread, you are also heating up the female alloy because it is in such close proximity. Also the coefficient of expansion for aluminium is higher, up to twice that of steel. Ordinarily it is a devil of a job heating alloy which is a notorious heat sink so it is much easier to heat the steel bolt. Also if you go to all that trouble to heat up the alloy, good luck trying not to also heat the bolt.[/size][/size]Yes you can fiddle around with cooling, chilling and even dousing with water but the plain fact of the matter is, if you heat the bolt cherry red, it will come out and you don't need to spend more than a few seconds on it either.[/size][/size][/size]S.
8
« on: 15 April 2014, 09:37:57 pm »
The FireBlade above was a complete mare and some of the studs were stainless. They would not budge unless you turned them while they were still cherry red...
9
« on: 14 April 2014, 07:45:25 am »
Just for the record, I buy "rusty lumps" and restore them. It is a good idea to keep a machine clean and this is a byproduct of a regular maintenance schedule. I would draw the line at dismantling a critical component which, in the OP looks pretty damned clean already!
Secondly, bludclot is suffering from Pringles syndrome: once you pop, you can't stop. We've all done it, you start with one small item, then just keep nibbling away at a machine until before you know it, you're looking at a bare frame...
S.
10
« on: 14 April 2014, 12:26:09 am »
11
« on: 13 April 2014, 10:52:34 pm »
How do you propose to heat the cylinder head casting? Half an hour with a heat gun on each stud? I have done this a zillion times: ten seconds per stud. I usually zap it with the TiG. Yes the stud expands but when it does, it is no longer stuck... I think it best to discourage taking a machine apart simply to clean it especially if (no offence buddy) the person doesn't even know what the item is. [size=78%]This is mine I pulled during a gearbox refurb:[/size] Obviously I gave it a good clean but it gets dirty almost immediately. Don't see the point really. You can get decent results with Gunk and a can of barbecue black. S.
12
« on: 13 April 2014, 04:45:41 pm »
The only way those studs are coming out is with heat. Lots of it. Think: welder.
You could play a flame over the alloy, use a bit of 3in1 oil, left to soak overnight, double nut, dahdedah but if you want them out and they don't want to come out, hit them with a stick welder or TiG first.
If the thread strips on you or a stud snaps, weld a nut on. Once the stud is red hot, get a spanner on there and it will come out. Need to spanner it while it's still cherry red if its being awkward...
The oil cooler is water cooled. If you want to take it off just to clean it - don't. If there isn't anything wrong with it, roughly mask it off with paper and spray it silver or black if you have to but personally I wouldn't recommend taking it off just to clean it. Have you got a decent torque wrench?
Screwd.
13
« on: 13 April 2014, 02:47:20 pm »
All black. Does it all...   I have had a fair few bikes over the years but this one is a keeper... S.
14
« on: 13 April 2014, 09:32:54 am »
Oh man, you guys aren't going to like this: Well as I posted in this thread the trusty Fazer is now back up and running. By a bizarre and unlikely coincidence, today my trusty van ran out of mot! I'm not sure if this is lucky timing or what. Certainly if I hadn't checked my pile of paperworks for all the various projects, I would have missed this deadline and probably found out half way back from Donington via ANPR. In light of the above comment regarding the oil, I did a couple of things first off I double checked the old cylinder head to where and how the oil ways had become jammed. I could only see muck under the cam holders, in the cam journals; as if any broken bits/swarf/alloy grindings hadn't been able to escape. There wasn't anything terrible in the old oil as I recall, just a bit grey from alloy paste. The oil ways themselves on the old head were clear. There is just one 8mm ish opening in the casting which seems to flood the head so that the cams run in a bath of oil rather than have it pumped through the tiny ways within the camshafts themselves. I will go and look this up though unless anyone knows better. Secondly, I drained the oil which was barely 20 miles old. It was dirty but not too bad.  So I strained it through a dust mask.  ...and stuck it back in. Next time I have any money, I might even change the oil. For the moment, it can live on Halfords finest and stfu. The bottom of the pan still looked ok too though I didn't drain the last dregs back in.  Then I even washed it.  Happy days. S.
15
« on: 13 April 2014, 12:30:31 am »
All black 
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« on: 07 April 2014, 09:02:16 am »
hmm. This seems to be one of the only forums I visit which doesn't rescale images. Thats a bit of a pain...
17
« on: 07 April 2014, 09:01:02 am »
I'm amazed it ran that long, especially seeing the state of the cam bearing surfaces. I assume it's a full engine out and strip to clean all the cag from the oilways and oil pump. Good find with the new head. 
Nope. Just swapped the head complete, set the valve clearances, filled it up with oil and water, good to go. No regular updates because incredibly, there is nowhere in London with a head gasket in stock. The very next thing is to bolt down the new head so until I source a new gasket, the mission is on hold. I had hoped to reuse the old one but it looks like that has already happened a couple of time and it's looking a bit flat (!). I have cleaned and prepped the new head though. I'll try linking a few pics but photo bucket keeps claiming I have run out of bandwidth. A scam no doubt designed to force people to pay for this so called free web service...    The exhaust stud which fouls the frame on assembly came out a treat. Should be running again within a few days, subject to sourcing a new gasket. Fifty bloody quid mind from Yamaha... S.
18
« on: 27 March 2014, 12:40:26 am »
Bet that sounded nice before it finally decided to stop. 
Started off being a noticeable ticking, then, with a cold engine, really poor performance. Finally a mad dash down the M1 at the end of which it sounded like a badly adjusted cement mixer. Very lucky to bag a really nice looking complete head off eBay. In black too for £80. S.
19
« on: 27 March 2014, 12:18:01 am »
Cheers Sirg, will definitely post some pics mate. So far the conversion is going well, I am building a complete R1 front end first and then just do a complete one for another swap if that makes sense?
As for the run out screwdriver, it is measured by holding one end in a lathe and turning it whilst measuring with a dial gauge.
You'll be very lucky to get a good reading to ten thou. First off you have no idea how accurate the piece is machined on its centre, secondly, unless you have very carefully set it up in a 4 jaw, you're looking at probably 5 thou just in the 3 jaw chuck, assuming you will have calibrated the tailstock offset with a test bar. Finally the stem is an interference fit in the lower yoke, another large source of error. So, no. I personally wouldn't worry about ten thou on a piece like that because it is tricky to measure down to that level of accuracy on a crude part and a "perfect" piece is going to be pressed into another crudely machined casting leading to even more possibilities for error. While error may be cumulative and it's always worth doing the best you can, any slight eccentricity in the stem is going to overshadowed by what happens when you press fit it. It's at that point you want to be setting the piece up in a jig and measuring for square/eccentricity. S.
20
« on: 24 March 2014, 02:57:28 pm »
Ten thou from where to where?
How did you measure it?
21
« on: 24 March 2014, 02:56:17 pm »
I showed my friend the picture with the engine in situ and the head off. His reply was FOC  should have waited till you (meaning me) arrived
Why?
22
« on: 20 March 2014, 12:38:31 am »
So it is possible.
But you have to remove the righthand exhaust stud which fouls the frame.
Found the culprit. A small bolt got in there. Also, while the engine was upside down having its gearbox replaced, all the crud deposited itself in the oil ways.
Live and learn.
S.
23
« on: 19 March 2014, 07:09:03 pm »
Last time I did one with a friend whose engine dropped a valve, he took the engine out before I got there and he said he could not get the clearance over the top of the studs when he tried to lift off the head.
Good to know from someone who has done it for future reference.
Exactly what I was thinking. It looks like it nearly does... ...but there is about 10mm of doubt.
24
« on: 19 March 2014, 07:07:44 pm »
Confused now. Referring to the service manual. To remove the cylinder head: Step 1, take out the engine....
So kebab, you've taken the cylinder head off a Gen 1 Fazer Thou without taking the engine out? The cylinder head (the big part with all the valves in it, not the head cover) clears the studs before it hits the frame?
25
« on: 19 March 2014, 06:44:45 pm »
Eh?
No way, I replaced the head on my 1000 after a very rare water pump failure & I can assure you the lower lump stayed in situ
Sorry kebab, just noticed you have actually done this before. Many thanks. I'll nip out to the shed now and whip the head off.
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