Thanks PieEater, the forum post you linked is extremely helpful. I'll probably refer back to this a fair bit as I go through the bike.


Regarding manuals, there doesn't appear to be a haynes manual available in the downloads page. Am I missing something or is it not available?


Cheers

Considering taking the engine swap path because I can get another engine (with 5500km) for three times the price of the gear selector forks which would be $300.

The engine is coming from a private seller is there anything I should be on the look out for with the new engine?

Also, would I be able to complete an engine swap without a lift? I imagine it’s going to be pretty heavy so difficult to lift into position. I could also enlist the help of an extra set of hands but I’m not sure if that’ll be enough.

Thanks Gnasher. Looks like I have some research to do. There are some good discussions on here for this issue so hopefully that combined with further research will be enough. Very keen to get this project running as it should and this is probably the last major issue to sort out for now. Had a good 3000k km on it though before having to sort this out. Can well and truely say I’m hooked. Thanks for your help along the way.

Hi All,

I've been having some issues with my clutch which have now progressed and need some immediate attention.

How it started:
When changing from first to second the gearbox would jump out of second and back to neutral. This would occur particularly after hard acceleration. After one or two goes I could get the bike to go into second.
After a while this would occur at any rate of acceleration. Also the bike would sometimes skip second and jump into third.

How it's going now:
Now the bike struggles to get into second. When changing from first to second it will go straight to neutral and then it'll be like there are no more gears. I can get it to go to second after a lot of tries but then have issues getting back to first.

When the bike is in each gear the behaviour is normal. No clutch slip or anything else that's unusual. It just an issue when changing gears.


From what I've read on here, it seems like this might be an issue with the gear selector forks or maybe the clutch springs. It would be good to hear some thoughts from people on here. Maybe the problem could be something else and there might be a procedure to follow for proper diagnosis of the problem.

Update: just redid my timing. This time it was further out but on the other side of the datum. So it looks like to was right before. So I assume it was only slightly out before due to cam chain wear

The tensioner has done its job and clicked over, so there's no more cam chain rattle. A decent amount of unnecessary work was avoided by holding off and doing some further troubleshooting.

Ahh yes the idle mixture screws. I’ve set them already - starting at 2 turns out and then adjusting each until strongest revs we’re achieved. I don’t think this is the issue. Is there anything else that could be causing this?

Hi Gnasher, thanks for all your messages on this topic. They’ve been very helpful.


An update on the cam chain noise:


I’ve finally been able to get my fazer registered (I just recently got my full license and can now ride it). It has been taken out for a 280km ride, some parts which were quite spirited. I got up to 10k+ rpm quite a few times and I tried to keep the revs in the upper range in the twisties. Unfortunately the cam chain noise remains. Here’s an updated video of the sound [size=78%]https://youtu.be/2wT8M6de9y8[/size]


After my ride I tried to fix the problem by manually pushing the tensioner in by 1 click. It didn’t budge. I took out the tensioner completely and bumped it along a click but when putting it back in there was clearance between the tensioner and the engine block. I didn’t want to force it and I figured that the cam chain wasn’t ready for the next click.
At present the tensioner is on the 9th click with 3 clicks left.


I’m not sure where to go from here. Should I go for some more rides?
Could the problem be something else or might my cam chain be actually worn out?


It’d be great to hear what you or anyone else reckons.


Cheers

Thanks Gnasher for your very detailed response.

First why are you changing it at only 43k miles?

The cam chain is rattling pretty loud. Here's a video. https://youtu.be/mAQfPnmdCBw
I've checked the CCT and it is at the 9th click of 12 which makes me think the problem is the cam chain.
Funnily enough, I recently got a parts bike (FZS600 1999) with the same mileage and very little cam chain sound. At this point I am unsure which will become the main bike as the parts bike needs work too. But for now I am committed to replacing the cam chain on my project.

Personally I don't use split link or soft link cam chains.  The former just isn't strong enough and the latter often is either over tight or too loose both will shorten chain life, I've seen DIY replaced chains fail in under 3k.  Fit endless, yes it's a bit more work and expense but it won't fail and last as mentioned 70k plus. It you must use a split/soft link, slide the new chain on to the old, thread some thin solid copper wire through the links, in a criss/cross pattern.  Make sure the ends are on the outside, twist off the ends and fold flat, pull the chain through by rotating the crank. 

I've got a soft link chain for the replacement as I'm trying to avoid the work involved in installing an endless chain. Thanks for your warning about compressing the rivet and for the explanation for pulling through the new cam chain.

Don't attempt it unless you are confident of your ability, have somewhere undercover, out of the wind to do it and have all the required tools and parts.Male sure any slack is at the back, if you got any at the front the timing is out and you run the risk of wrecking the motor.   

I've done a fair bit of research and I'm confident that if I take it slow I can work it out. The main things that I will be focusing on are

• Cam cap removal and installation - ensuring not to bend cam shafts from the forces applied by compressed valve springs.
  I think the sequence for this is outlined in the Haynes manual.
• Timing - lining up all datum marks & ensuring there's no slack between crank and exhaust cam gear.
  This makes sense because the CCT is between the intake cam gear and the crankshaft.
  I'll turn the crank over a few times at the end to ensure timing datum still line up.
• Rivet link installation
• Keeping mated surfaces together

Cheers Gnasher and unfazed for the replies. This is a massive help!
 
The fuel joiner solution seems like the easiest and will solve the leakage problem.

Although, I will probably replace all the old hoses due to wear around the ends of the hoses thanks to some impatience on my part when working on the bike. This is what caused my leak in the first place - lessons were learned. Thanks unfazer for setting out how to do this.

Hi All,

There's a similar post on this regarding routing new fuel hoses by Friar (https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=27120.msg0;boardseen#new) but I have a slightly different question to ask.
I want to replace the 3 fuel lines from tank to carbs.
What have people done in the past?

• Is there somewhere I can get OEM fuel hoses for cheap?
• Has anyone got straight hoses and then shaped them?
• Should I just apply the solution in Friar's post and get straight hose that is long enough to compensate for the tight space getting from points A to B?

I'm not sure how I should proceed.

Location: Sydney, Australia

Cheers