Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: MFD on 05 December 2020, 06:27:46 pm
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Hello,
Does anyone have full parts diagrams for the different forks used by the FZS600 over the years, or can shed some light on exactly what changed and what is interchangable between them?
I bought some cheap "2002" forks to test my bike after crashing it and severely bending the forks a month or so ago. Unlike the ones that came on my (2003) bike, they have a simple cap at the top rather than preload adjusters, but everything I've found suggests preload adjusters were added in the 2000 model. They've also got an excessive gap between the ends where the front wheel fits, so the axle draws them together by a few millimeters when tightened (the stanchions are straight) - is this normal?
Thanks
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I never found the preload adjusters really did anything when i had them on mine, i had them turned up as firm as possible, but i swapped them for earlier forks that never had any and they work absolutely fine for normal everyday use.
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as far as i recall the non adjustable forks had a different spacer length(the tube between spring and topcap) and that was all..perhaps the fowlers parts list for different years may help you..
couple of millimetres "pull in" at the axle end I would think was ok ??
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as far as i am aware the adjustable ones use less oil, have shorter spacers and the adjustable caps. thats the only difference
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Hello,
Does anyone have full parts diagrams for the different forks used by the FZS600 over the years, or can shed some light on exactly what changed and what is interchangable between them?
I bought some cheap "2002" forks to test my bike after crashing it and severely bending the forks a month or so ago. Unlike the ones that came on my (2003) bike, they have a simple cap at the top rather than preload adjusters, but everything I've found suggests preload adjusters were added in the 2000 model.
The outside spec of the forks non-pre load to preload there's no change, it's all internal. The preload version, the spring and the preload spacer or collar are shorter and the oil capacity/height is less. When you sit and work it all out, the later preload version gives you almost nothing at it's highest setting, in other words a waste of time a really just a gamic! You can transfer all the internals over from one to the other, your better off adding the earlier spacer to the later preload forks at least you get more preload, but you need to ensure this will match your riding style (pillion) or weight so as not to become coil bound on max braking or hitting big bumps etc.
They've also got an excessive gap between the ends where the front wheel fits, so the axle draws them together by a few millimeters when tightened (the stanchions are straight) - is this normal?
When you say a few mm do you mean 1-2mm? With the correct spacers in the clearance should be just enough to get them in and out, so 0.5mm at most either side. If the fork isn't binding you should be ok, but check to ensure the yokes aren't slightly twisted.
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Good call with the Fowlers parts list - just what I needed!
Going by the part numbers, the early/late forks used different springs, spacers and dampers along with the caps, so now I know which parts need to stay together :)
I had wondered if the yokes were perhaps damaged in the crash. The stanchion kept binding in the lower yoke and took a lot of effort to slide when I put the test forks in... hopefully minimal as I spent yesterday welding up and grinding the steering stop back to shape after the crash forced the stops on the yoke through(!) them.
When rebuilding the forks earlier in the year I went with 15w oil, definitely improved things over the original without adjusting, shimming or otherwise meddling with the spring preload.
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The bottom yoke is slightly twisted, its fairly obvious now its off the bike.