Electrical problem - pointers please

[Ghoti]

Hi all,

I have a Gen1 Fazer 1000.  It has been off the road for a year or so, but just got it back on the road.  It wasn't stored very well over last winter and was sat under a plastic sheet in the garden so got a wet and snowed on.  It is running OK except for an intermittent electircal problem.

Every now and then the engine will die for a few seconds.  During this time the lights stay on, but the clocks, rev counter and speedo stop working.  I have done things like turn the run-kill off and on, but I dont think this really has any effect on the problem - the bike just starts working again.  Once (and only once as far as I know) the rev counter and speedo both flicked around about full and then back again to zero and then the engine started (as I was riding at the time I was not paying too much attention to exact figures displayed by the needles - is this a diagnostic like the TPS is out?).

Given that the clock die but lights stay on, I've ruled out side stand switch, run kill switch and ignition as, I think, either the clocks will stay on or the lights will go off - is this right?

I've wiggled wires and fuses, but cannot replicate the problem when stationery.  Before I attempt to trace and double check every wire that it could possibly be, are there any known weak areas in the electrical system on the Fazer that could cause this or areas that people think I should start looking at first.

Thanks in advance

[Falcon 269]

Hi and welcome.

After a prolonged lay-up and exposure to damp there could be many causes for the problem.

As always with the Fazer, start by ensuring you have a good battery.  Assume nothing, check it with a voltmeter.  You should have 12.8v across the battery terminals.  A weak or failing battery can cause the sort of intermittent electrical failures you describe.

Also suspect is the ignition switch.  Clean it thoroughly by squirting electrical contact cleaner through it to flush out any crap.  You should do the same with both handlebar switchgear units.

After that, work systematically through all the connector blocks from the fairing and clocks back to the fuses/battery area.  Again, electrical cleaner, close inspection for corrosion or damaged pins, apply dialectric grease and refit.

It's likely to be something related to battery voltage or a poor contact.  Work methodically and you should find it soon enough.  Time spent cleaning and greasing the connectors will pay dividends in the future.

Mike

[Ghoti]

Thanks Mike. 

I guess I have something to do on Sunday now between the turkey, Queen's speech and unwrapping gifts!

I was just hoping it was a common problem to save me checking the whole bike (coz I know it will be the last place I look).  I hate intermittant problems because you just cannot tell if you are at the broken bit but it is working at that time.

[Falcon 269]

The battery and the ignition switch are the most frequent culprits so with luck you'll not have to fault-find beyond those two.  However, for future peace of mind, running through the rest of the electrics would be a sound idea when you have a couple of hours to spare.

Read this and tuck it away for future reference, too.

Happy hunting!

[pinkbikerfzs1]

Check out the big connector situated under the left hand fairing infill panel, mine got water in it, it caused the neutral light to stay on, even in gear, but it also feeds everything forward of the tank.

[AnandaYamaha]

Hi Ghoti,

Did youever sort out that FAZER 1000 electric problem in 2011?

I have a similar problem with my 2001 FAZER. With the engine idling the clocks go blank for several seconds when I put on the headlights.  When the headlights are on and the engine just idling if I put on an indicator it does the same
thing again.
Any help appreciated. Was it the ingition switch or something else?

Thanks ,

Ananda

[Ghoti]

Blimey - this is a post from the past.

Yes, I did find it (eventually), but cannot remember what the answer was as I've had various issues with electrics on the Fazer.

Maybe it was fixed when the alternator was re-wound, or perhaps it was a corroded connector block hidden away somewhere (under the air box perhaps), or a fractured wire under the left hand side panel or it was a new battery was needed.

Sorry, those are the 4 things I can think of.  Mu guess would be the connector block above the engine, under the air box was corroded and needed replacing (or just bypassed because I bodge things).

Hope you find it.