Day 42 - 2-3-14 - Spent some time getting the Koso speedo temporarily wired up to check it works and in readiness for a road test (hopefully in a couple of months time). I didn't want to cut
any connectors off just yet so have jammed the wires from the Koso into connector for the OE speedo. Also made a note of what wires connect to which to save time in the future.
The wiring from the OE speedo sensors shows two wires go direct to the speedo whilst the Black/Blue goes to the pick up coil. It's only a theory at this point, which I've mentioned earlier, but I reckon
that the reason those who have fitted different speedos in the past get error codes displayed on the rev counters is because they lose this connection to the pick up coil by wiring the speedo sensor only to
the after market speedo.
I'm hoping to avoid this issue by maintaining the connection to the pick up coil by splicing in an extra wire, so the wire from the speedo sensor goes to both the pick up coil and the Koso speedo. Only
a road test will tell if this works, which will hopefully happen within a month or two. Even if my theory is correct I may be messing things up because I'm using the KTM wheel speed sensor and this may be
calibrated differently. We'll see, all part of the fun of the custom build.
Day 43 - 22-3-14 - I don't believe this! I'm onto my third choice of place to mount the speedo. I don't like it mounted on the handle bar clamps. Too high for my liking and also really hard to
get at the ignition key to turn it on and off. So decided (for the moment LOL) that I need to mount the speedo on the ignition switch mounts on the top yoke.
That means the ignition key barrel has to move. Looks like I'm going to have to mount it like the chopper builders do, somewhere under the top rails of the frame. I'm thinking in the area that the airbox
currently resides. That will be going once I get the pod filters fitted, so nicely tucked away under the tank perhaps?
Need to take the top yoke to a fabricator to get the bolts out so the ignition switch can be removed. The manufacturers use bolts which have no heads to deter thieves. I think the way they normally
get them removed is to weld a nut onto the bolt so you can get a spanner on them.
Ordered my custom made drive sprocket with a 2mm offset from Talon Engineering, together with a rear sprocket for the KTM wheel. This also has to be custom made as they don't make them with 50
teeth as standard. The OE KTM rear sprocket is (from memory) only a 43 tooth. I've ordered them in a 525 pitch, even though the standard Fazer is a 530, to help with any clearance issues, although I'm
confident there shouldn't be any. Once fitted I'll order a chain as I'll have a good idea how many links I'll need.
My mate Shaun is designing a rear brake caliper bracket on his CAD software at work. Once that's finalised I'll be getting Harris Performance to make me one on their CNC machine. Things are at a bit of standstill
until I get the bike rolling again. This is phase one and once I know the bike rides OK with the new front and rear end I'll be moving on to phase two, which will be fitting a new Venom (cheaper Motad)
stainless exhaust system, pod filters and a carb rejet to match. I've also got a rather nice stubby Gianelli can to fit. It was made for a ZX-10R, but it has the same inlet size as the standard pipe so should
go straight on. If not some modifications will be made!