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Messages - Timbollew
1
« on: 15 December 2015, 01:50:09 pm »
I had a similar issue punkstig but it was the wire for my sidelights that broke. You can open that ignition up and solder the wire and close it back with regular bolts if you don't wanna fork out for a new barrel. getting the anti theft bolts out was a pain in the back side though. There's a 3rd party barrel on eBay for about £30-40 if i remember though.
2
« on: 03 November 2015, 07:07:50 pm »
Please for the love of sweet baby Jesus ignore joebloggs's comment!
3
« on: 25 October 2015, 10:15:44 pm »
Fair play the silver ones look lovely. Defo gonna get some of these.
4
« on: 25 October 2015, 10:12:52 pm »
I had this issue and it was the sensor rather than the drive dog (bit that spins in the wheel). I had a small split right at the base of the wire and moisture was getting in there and causing chaos. You could try sealing it up if you have a split with amalgamating tape or something as the sensors are about £130 new and rare as rocking horse shit to get second hand. Check the drive first though, easy fix if thats broken and about £16.
5
« on: 22 October 2015, 06:03:28 pm »
Let's safe to say I have the confidence to overtake again I think it was the TPS but the new plugs and air filter have helped.
6
« on: 22 October 2015, 01:40:12 pm »
Sorry Sinto, you were the inspiration and I thank you sincerely from the bottom of my heart :P
7
« on: 22 October 2015, 11:39:38 am »
Hiya guys so bikes been running a little rough and I really don't wanna take the carbs out again. Fuel treatments like redex and stuff, they any good or just clever marketing?
8
« on: 22 October 2015, 11:36:43 am »
My TPS was out so I've adjusted now. Just waiting to get out on it to see if any improvement. Buggers not starting now which is weird as I only took the plugs out and give em a clean. Just put new plugs in and drained the float bowls to rule out water in there but not starting. Just put battery on charge as it took a beating me trying to start it so hoping fresh charge will wake it up.
9
« on: 22 October 2015, 11:33:07 am »
Duck taped a straw to the end of the vacuum lol. Worked a treat
10
« on: 19 October 2015, 12:14:52 am »
Took it for a little blast through the Brecon Beacons
11
« on: 18 October 2015, 11:08:05 pm »
Sorry Anutz you replied while I was typing. I'll try and get my hands on a carb tune as I'm fairly sure they need balancing anyway. I'm just looking at some secondhand ones on eBay but can only find 2 cylinder ones. Can I use a 2 cylinder and just switch the pipes around?
12
« on: 18 October 2015, 11:00:34 pm »
I guess it could be classed as bogged down. Basically when it happens the engine starts making a strange noise like its misfiring or something and the power I'll climb very slowly until it gets to a point the revs won't go any higher. I can ride ok but as soon as I get to an overtake situation I've got no confidence because the issue might just kick in and leave me stranded without power.
I don't have a carb tune unfortunately so can't check the balances might need to have a look into getting hold of one. The checks you're referring to are these based on using a carb tune or compression test as I do have access to a compression test.
13
« on: 18 October 2015, 10:17:02 pm »
So gonna swap out my plugs in the hope this will help my issues. What do you guys go for? Any tips on cleaning out before undoing the plugs? Mine are full of grit and crap and obviously I don't wanna get that in the bore.
14
« on: 18 October 2015, 06:15:13 pm »
Hi guys, Haven't been on for a while hope everyone is well. Finally got the bike MOT'd after my issues with the ignition electrics (sidelights not working) and it's developed a stutter.
It's strange because if I ease the revs up it'll go past the 7000 mark with no issues (most of the time) if I open it up quickly it's guaranteed to stutter. On the flat it'll work it's way up slowly through the revs but it's like a bad misfire.
I've had the plugs out and give them a clean and they seem to be sparking OK, I changed the air filter as it hadn't been done in yonks but still the same. The rubbers on the carb seem pretty badly cracked so I'm thinking it's sucking in air through here when the revs are peaking but low revs not enough pressure to take in the air like I say normally problematic around 7000 and sometimes around 4000. My theory is just that a theory can anybody give some suggestions on how I could check this? Also I imagine the inlet rubbers will be pricey anyone know of deals/cheap fixes?
Thanks guys.
15
« on: 18 August 2014, 08:05:46 am »
All done finally she's running again after my run of problems. Used my new impact screwdriver to get the rounded screws out fair play that thing is worth the £8! Couple of the screws were really rounded so I bought my self a Dremel and cut a notch out the top and hey presto! Cleaned the carbs out FairPlay there was loads of sediment in there the float bowls were red! Power seems a lot smoother. Also in another post I mentioned that my cam chain tensioner was missing the 2 ball bearings, sourced 2 put them in and no more ticking! Well happy!
16
« on: 15 August 2014, 11:35:58 pm »
As the title says really guys. I know how to get the carbs out and I had the number 1 carb apart following Haynes manual, just wondering how I should clean them and what should I use. Any possible problems or adjustments I'm gonna need to watch out for?
17
« on: 15 August 2014, 11:19:44 pm »
So new gaskets came today and my set of replacement screws from France. FairPlay I know they're only screws but the kit looks pretty comprehensive for £9 and it replaces the Phillips heads to Allan bolts so should be easier to strip the arbs in the future. I attached a pic for you guys if anyone's thinking of changing them there's some info on the pic.
18
« on: 12 August 2014, 02:28:05 pm »
I'd say you wanna loosen the front sprocket nut with the rear wheel still on either get a friend to keep back brake on or a piece of wood through the wheel to stop it turning. DON'T put bike in gear and use the engine to sto stop the sprocket turning! I used a cheapo riveter no problems at all, I did grind off the pins though to remove the old chain otherwise the riveters tend to break apparently. Before you chuck your old chain loop it over the sprocket block the wheel with wood again and that way you can tighten the front sprocket up to torque without putting strain on your new chain. This is what I did anyway and don't be shy with the grease they give you.
19
« on: 12 August 2014, 01:49:59 pm »
Dude your on form with the knowledge this week! Cheers for the 101, handy stuff to know. Do B&Q stock these kind of screws?
20
« on: 11 August 2014, 02:54:36 pm »
Didn't know that part list existed! Keeping that handy. I might just get this pack of ebay save the hassle of trying to find the right parts, screws are a science I don't understand.
22
« on: 10 August 2014, 12:21:55 pm »
So I ordered a bran new pack of gaskets for the float bowl for the fzs and my wonderful girlfriend in all her wisdom, had a tidy up and threw an "empty" envelope containing the brand spanking new gaskets, but don't worry it's my fault not my wonderful girlfriends. You may be able to tell I'm a little focced off.
My question is the carb I stripped and used the old gasket is leaking, if I strip it and put some of the blue liquid gasket shite on the old gasket would that be any good. Or shall I order another set and lock them in a safe until I can commence work on the bike.
23
« on: 29 July 2014, 02:05:36 pm »
Anybody have any recommendations on what to use to clean the carbs?
24
« on: 29 July 2014, 01:47:05 pm »
I assumed you was referring to the impact screwdrivers that you hammer the top with. Gonna just get one of these for now been spending too much on parts at the moment, never mind tools the Mrs will have my balls
25
« on: 28 July 2014, 09:08:40 pm »
Good shout I'll order one now.
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