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Messages - basher
1
« on: 19 October 2023, 09:31:15 pm »
See attached
wow i just seen this. my bike has no washers in the airbox restricting it but possibly someone only half removed the kit on mine because the steel plates are on all 4 carbs... so I guess these are safe to remove now that I know?
2
« on: 18 October 2023, 07:07:28 pm »
Alright I've a lot to talk about here as I've tried a lot of things so far. basically after i got the engine back together i did the old spraying water on the headers to see what was happening. at that stage only 2 cylinders were firing. after taking the carbs out and completely rebuilding them now its working on 1-2-4 but 3 is cold. i put a brand new plug in cylinder 3 and moved the plug wire from 2 to 3 basically swapping them, didnt make a difference. when i did take them all out to check for spark they all have blue spark. I did notice a little bit of plug cap arcing from cylinder 4 cap but thats attached to a different coil and 1-4 are fine so even though its not ideal i dont think its the issue. THE ISSUE HAS ALSO MOVED FROM 2ND BEING COLD TO NOW 3RD BEING COLD, so it has swapped a cylinder somehow after I cleaned the carbs so my symptoms are as follows. in first and second gear around 4k RPM I can hear the 3rd cylinder waking up and firing it kinda stutters as it begins to get fuel to the cylinder then firing perfectly on all 4 cylinders from that rpm onwards. below 3k RPM taking off feels lumpy like an old steam train firing up  tiny drop of fuel now and then out of the 2nd carb bank overflow ---- now I did try a really rudimentary vacuum guage to sync the carbs but since then i did a bench sync and it feels way better, in high rpm it pulls very well. but maybe the 3rd cylinder is just miles off the rest. can carb sync issues cause a cylinder to not fire at all on idle? --- if anyone has ever had a similar issue or knows what could be happening id like to hear your opinions as running on 3 is better than 2 on idle circuit but id like to be using all cylinders  i just want a list of things to try and hopefully i can get it back to being fully operational 
3
« on: 17 October 2023, 04:30:39 pm »
any update?
4
« on: 16 October 2023, 11:52:42 pm »
I am having similar issues, had 2 headers cold, now after lots of messing around ive only 1 cold but it jumped around from 3 to 2. have spark on all plugs, i have a suspicion its the float valve seat but i would like to know if anyone has a link to a straight plug cap suitable for 98 model just so I can buy some and eliminate the issue 
5
« on: 11 October 2023, 10:08:34 pm »
Okay so I'm back with an update and some questions about where I am now. to start off I've replaced the piston rings on all cylinders and installed new cylinder base gasket and head gasket along with fresh head and cams, valve clearances in spec. So I had it all back together and went for the first ride and thankfully when I came back and took the valve cover off the oil was clear and not metal sludge  drove it for an hour then and fixed a few small coolant leaks and just felt the bike. the carb water heater circuit hose has a tear and just slowly leaks at a constant rate but apart from that there are no leaks now thankfully, and I've heard I can delete that circuit anyways which I might do. I also found out after attempting to balance carbs for the first time that only 2 cylinders were running... so I was driving parallel twin I guess at least at low rpm. there is very good compression on all cylinders after valve clearance and new rings and head gasket so I think it has to be carb related issue, it also hunts a bit.. but im chalking that up to me doing a crap job balancing it and I've messed with the fuel screws to try get cylinder 2 and 3 to heat up, turning the fuel screw on carb 2 I got that exhaust to heat up a bit more but 3 is still cold. I checked all the plugs and HT leads and even swapped them around loads of time because I was worried i had them the wrong way around. I believe the HT leads are all fine and plugs are all giving good spark. It does sound like all 4 cylinders are working well when I'm on the throttle though which is good. possibly just the pilot is clogged. im going to check the carbs over tomorrow and probably remove the coolant circuit from them at the same time. So I'm probably running rich on some cylinders and lean on others and not at all on 3 XD, carbs are a mess atm but they're my next priority. I will say even with the state of the carbs at the moment the bikes feels better than ever, even with a shot clutch that needs replacing asap All of it was done with the engine in the frame also.
6
« on: 10 October 2023, 08:14:12 pm »
Okay  I took off the cylinder out of curiosity knowing I would have to replace its gasket and I'm glad I did because as you can see below there is a lot of blowby occurring on all of the pistons.
Bitter sweet I guess but that's life. so I have decided to add on four new sets of rings and the cylinder base gasket to my shopping list.
Is it easy to change just the rings while the engine in the bike? Getting some low compression on cylinder 1.
funnily enough I have actually meant to update my post with my progress which I will along with videos and pictures tomorrow, but to answer you. Yes I found it fairly straight forward once you follow the manual like a bible and keep everything clean during installation.. I made that mistake and had to buy a new head and cams because I didnt clean it properly the first time around. so learn from my mistakes and youll be fine. take off cam chain tensioner, then valve cover. remove the cam caps, take out the cams, unscrew the head studs, pull the head, take the head gasket off, pull the cylinder slowly to mind the pistons and rings, replace the rings in the correct order and orientation, then reinstall. im making a more detailed version tomorrow with pictures etc
7
« on: 07 September 2023, 08:34:35 pm »
Okay I took off the cylinder out of curiosity knowing I would have to replace its gasket and I'm glad I did because as you can see below there is a lot of blowby occurring on all of the pistons. Bitter sweet I guess but that's life. so I have decided to add on four new sets of rings and the cylinder base gasket to my shopping list.
8
« on: 06 September 2023, 10:54:22 pm »
Okay So I have the the head off at the moment and ive been preparing the new one ive bought, gasket surfaces cleaned and prepped for the new gasket which came today. used some stuff to break down the carbon build up on the valve faces and the exhaust port, then sprayed the head black to go inline with the rest of the engine.
going to polish the journals and cams tomorrow and once im happy with them ill put it all back together and time it so I can check the valve clearances. there are a few small marks on the journals but im hopfully going to have everything completely smooth by tomorrow evening.
9
« on: 28 August 2023, 03:22:11 pm »
I think you should definitely drop the oil just to be sure man, if the internals are making strange sounds its most likely metal on metal contact somewhere in there and any contact isnt good for the engine. it could be a cheese grater in there I know personally rn because my camshafts were destroyed after my mistake... replacing the head now  live and learn lol
10
« on: 25 August 2023, 07:59:08 pm »
Amazing work man, im only restoring my 98 and i cant imagine the amount of stress and work going into basically creating your own bike. fair play and I know you'll see it through to the end
11
« on: 24 August 2023, 10:31:20 pm »
Okay quick update for the time being, made a bad mistake pertaining to the camshafts. long story short they're pitted to hell. I believe i left debris on the cams during the cam chain replacement and valve clearance work. when i ran the bike first time I came home to notice a valve cover bolt was completely missing and in said hole the cam journal was actually moving. straight away pulled the cover off and sure enough lots of metal sludge and gouging of the journals. bit of a set back but besides that all was well. when I dropped the oil from the engine I was thankful to only find small bits of very fine metal particulate which im assuming also came from the cams. so the plan ahead is
I've ordered a completely clean used cylinder head off ebay.
i'm buying some hex key sockets to remove the current head.
also have to buy a new head gasket.
clean down the new head when it comes and respray it black to match the rest of the engine
flush the oil galleries with diesel and the whole bottom end for good measure, I cannot risk any more metal finding its way around the engine
once that's done ill just reinstall the top end and time it up while ensuring the cams and everything is pristine clean.
and finally redo the valve clearances to ensure they're all in spec again
little bit of a set back but I know what I did wrong and ill update when I have the engine running again after all the above is done
12
« on: 14 August 2023, 12:53:12 am »
yeah i had a similar situation with my bike after the restoration, overflowing from carbs not running but sounding like it wanted to. ended up being fuel tappet off.
then check the tank to ensure no debris is in it, inline fuel filter, the little filter in the hose from pump to carbs.
carbs could also be overflowing because of float being off or the valve in the bowl is perished so too much fuel is getting in. a fuel issue isnt the end of the world luckily just go over the hoses and carbs to ensure its all clean and in spec, the pump should click around 8 times if not driven in a few days so it builds up pressure.
if its constantly ticking its not getting enough pressure to stop the valve which is why its constantly dumping fuel into your carbs and overflowing them. so ensure all the hoses are also on correctly and tightened
13
« on: 13 August 2023, 10:05:29 pm »
had 50k miles on the fazer I have and restoring it now. cam chain replaced and valve clearances done. all 14/16 valves were tight lol
but since then the first test drive was great, lots more power and the chain ticking is gone.
14
« on: 04 August 2023, 04:08:58 am »
Okay, first drive today went alright.
bike is running very rich though because its popping and banging a lot and the pipe is getting sooty fast. more smoke, sputtering and hard to accelerate. all telltale signs
also the water leaks are still present so I've to sort that out. the bike got very hot with the combination of engine not running properly and water escaping.
so the next step is to buy new o-ring for the water pump and I've to replace the thermostat assembly, also ensure all the hoses are tightened enough.
buy a battery and then sync the carbs because I feel like they're way off too, and then if its still running too rich ill adjust the fuel screws in until its running right.
so that's the current plan to get the performance sorted out first, then once that's done ill continue with the finishing touches (seat cover) (radiator guard) (stickers) (paint touch up) (etc)
Apart from that the bike had nothing come loose or anything dangerous so I'm happy, and the performance is definitely a LOT better than it was the last time I rode it even with fueling being rich and carbs out of sync, so I imagine once its all dialed in, it'll be amazing.
15
« on: 31 July 2023, 11:51:43 am »
if anyone knows how he got the cone filters to work can you please reply to me here? or if the new owner would be so kind as to check the jets etc in the carb? im working on a project and already had the cones bought but it seems like a lot of hassel so ive decided to put the airbox back in, any insights would be gratefully appreciated
16
« on: 28 July 2023, 10:56:13 pm »
you will have lots of fun getting it running right with cone filters. Most who have tried have wished they never bothered.
I have heard about the difficulties of cone filters, but I wanted to try anyways. if all else fails I can just reinstall the airbox. its definitely running very lean at the moment so ill try get away easily by turning the fuel screw first and then I guess upping the jets if that fails.
17
« on: 27 July 2023, 11:25:38 pm »
making progress but I have a few water leaks. the thermostat and water pump seals are both perished...
also I can start the bike but it wont hold idle. and adjusting the idle screw doesnt make a difference. Im guessing after doing the valve clearance and deleting the airbox for cone filters I will need to adjust the fuel screw for it to idle again.
18
« on: 06 July 2023, 06:24:15 pm »
two smaller ones hold in the ignition for the key
19
« on: 03 July 2023, 10:34:40 pm »
yeah was about to comment sounds like a fuel issue, glad it was an easy fix. nice looking bike
20
« on: 03 July 2023, 10:32:17 pm »
My insurance through Ageas is called "Future Classic Vintage" but maybe we have to go another 10 years to match the RD. Perhaps to be a classic part of it is how rare they are ?
My bike is May 1998 we had a thing a few years ago to find the oldest fazer and if \I remember right it was mine - by a few days. I think the bike in the UK was released in May ?. Although I brought it 3 years later.
how does one find out when their bike was made/registered? ive a 98 too
21
« on: 03 July 2023, 09:35:20 pm »
curious why you need tensioner access?
22
« on: 02 July 2023, 10:07:10 pm »
Hey I decided to create a post summarizing my first restoration ever, on my fzs 600 98 my first bike.
Ive already dismantled it and went through virtually every part of the bike, only a few minor things have to be finished off. and I am trying to keep it as close to original as possible with only a new exhaust system, seat cover grips and levers and some hoses being the only visual differences. its still ongoing and I plan on updating this post until its completed.
Engine work
replaced the cam chain.
redone all valve clearances (13 were out of spec)
resprayed with heat resistant matt engine paint, valve cover white heat resistant paint.
carburetors cleaned out and rebuilt.
Frame and plastics
all plastics resprayed with VRC1 exact colour of red as original.
plastics also welded with hot staples and plastic bonder.
frame sprayed with black and 2k clear coat over.
steering stem bearings replaced with new roller bearings.
suspension
replaced the original shock with a low mileage used one. (might upgrade to yss in future)
front forks are working fine with no seal leaks. ( might upgrade forks or springs in future)
cooling system
replaced damaged radiator with good used one.
buying radiator guard soon.
new as3 performance red hose kit with stainless hose clamps.
wheels
sprayed black and clear coated with 2k
new metzeler m5 interact tires.
all wheel bearings and sprocket carrier bearing replaced and greased.
23
« on: 02 July 2023, 09:40:48 pm »
for me its cylinder 4 is really low, I suspect rings are worn but I wont bother replacing the pistons until winter
24
« on: 02 July 2023, 09:39:23 pm »
you could just remove the ht leads and the valve cover, you shouldnt need to remove everything, if you could I would greatly appreciate it as I am seriously considering it and the only thing holding me back is worry about the timing and the fact I dont know how its supposed to look with the thundercat cams. thanks
25
« on: 19 June 2023, 09:24:19 pm »
thinking about try this, how does one know what is the correct timing if the marks dont line up? thanks
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