Bought some Redex to clean the rings, and also an endoscope just to see what was going on in the cylinder. Hopefully, it will help.
I don't see the smoke, but it burns about 200-300ml of oil for around 600 miles.
If I will have to replace rings, will wait till winter and some snow.

Okay    I took off the cylinder out of curiosity knowing I would have to replace its gasket and I'm glad I did because as you can see below there is a lot of blowby occurring on all of the pistons.
Bitter sweet I guess but that's life. so I have decided to add on four new sets of rings and the cylinder base gasket to my shopping list.

Is it easy to change just the rings while the engine in the bike? Getting some low compression on cylinder 1.

I did balance the carbs.


At the start the engine runs good, not perfect.   
Exahoust temps were 200, 200, 190, 160.
But after a warmup idle goes bad and the temps go to 230, 230, 150, 100.     
The carbs cant go bad after a warmup, it has to be an electrical issue.  I will replace the coils, hopefully, that will fix it.
After a warmup, I think the resistance of the coils is going up and most of the sparks are going into the short leads with is cylinders 1 and 2.

I have compared the idle jet with others, and they are the same. I even swapped them.
I have swapped HT leads with 2 and 3 cylinder, new spark plug, new cap plug. Still the same.
So I got Compression, I got Spark, I think I only miss fuel on idle. The bikes run fine on a high rpms, its just that 3rd cylinder is not idling.


The pilot jet screw on that 3rd cylinder was a bit higher when fully seated, maybe that could be an issue, I have added half turn more on that one and will test it today.


Also next to a Pilot jet screw, there is something blanked off next to it. What's that?
One one of the videos someone said to remove the blanks when cleaning.
 

Hello,


There are 2 holes in front of the carb, is there a screw or jet that could be blocked? As the 3rd cylinder is cold at idle, but it's fine when going above 5000rpm.
I did rebuild the carbs, but not sure if I've seen a screw in one of those holes. Will have to take the carbs out again 

https://youtu.be/I0siKsK6CfM?t=116

Just found a video and looks like that could be the issue.
Thanks

Hello,


When I was rebuilding the Carbs some small part fell out, not sure where it goes or if it's even from Carb. 




https://imgur.com/a/tXjdRTC

Thanks

Hello,


Is it possible to run low and high beam together when on High beam mode ?
When I ride on the side roads/country roads all I do is keep switching the lights from low to high all the time, because the roads are shit, with potholes and uneven roads all over the place.
Would pulling the wire from High beam light to low beam light work ?
I got LED lights, so they don't need so much power I would assume.


Thanks.

I've been up to my eye's with work stuff. Hopefully get a look at the bike during the week. The air filter is a K & N, dunno if that makes a difference. It's been in there for years though. It was one of the first things I did to the bike. It could be some crud in the tank I suppose. How can I check that?

Have you fixed the issue? As I'm having the same problem.

After today's ride, it was better than yesterday.
It happened twice today, I was going slow about 4k rpms and the engine cut out, rpms dropped to 1k and if I won't grab the clutch I will get a pop from the exhaust.
Its not a side stand as I bypassed it.
Its not the key barrel as I cleaned it with contact cleaner and turned it 100 times.
I tested the clutch sensor with multimeter and it looks fine.
New battery. 12.6v   when riding 14v
Tested the TPS and its perfectly on 5000.


I went on a 1st gear 10k rpms and it was fine, all other gears are also fine.
Just a random cut out. Could it be a CDI overheating or some other controller?


Waiting for the Heynes manual, so will know a bit more about where is what and whats what 


Will get a new CDI ECU and test it.
Could it be also a Fuel Pump Relay ?  "Its [/size][/size][/font][/color][/size]function is an electro-mechanical processor. It detects if the  transmission is in neutral, side stand is down, clutch is in. In turn it  enables the CDI to work and the starter relay to trigger the starter  motor"      Trying to find one, but they all for £60.   But for now, will replace CDI/ECU.[/color]