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Messages - chriswarren
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« on: 26 November 2018, 06:21:14 pm »
Final outcome - the dealer managed to find some second-hand parts for the oil cooler (?) pipe under the sump. He showed me how one of the arms just disintegrated like tin foil with a tiny bit of pressure. So, basically corrosion of this pipe, and the main vertical one feeding into the large hose on the front of the block has cost me £295 all in. Fortunately he didn't have to take the pipes off (must have had small hands!). Actually felt that given the circumstances, they (Alfords in Folkestone) actually did a good job. I had a Honda CB900 for the same amount of time (and it was second-hand when I bought it).... I can't remember seeing corrosion have such a bad effect... but then Honda are pretty fanatical about material quality. Thanks for all the replies - I'm now just waiting for the next corrosion mishap 
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« on: 13 November 2018, 12:05:56 pm »
The nightmare worsens... had a quote of around £400 from the dealer including second-hand parts off eBay. Parts have now arrived and been fitted, but now a further leak has developed from the main pipe attaching to the oil cooler. Apparently it needs a new oil cooler cover and pipe. Does anyone know if a 600 cooler cover/pipe would fit - I can't find an FZS one on eBay. Part of me's thinking what's going to go next, there's obviously some pretty bad corrosion issues on the front end...
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« on: 02 November 2018, 09:42:06 am »
Really appreciate your advice. It does sound relatively easy, IF, everything goes according to plan. Trouble is, it's my commuting machine and after 15 yrs of crud on those exhaust bolts, I reckon it'll take some sort of thermonuclear weapon to free them off. I'm also pretty sure it's the pipe that's the culprit. All in all, I think I'll have to support local small business and book it in to my dealer - unfortunately down in Folkestone (i'm just outside Canterbury). If my knees were younger and I had a bit more courage I'd try it! Will let you know what the result is. Thanks again.
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« on: 01 November 2018, 09:00:32 am »
Thanks Whale.
Some follow up questions:
- can you do this without removing the exhausts?
- can you get away with any reasonable quality coolant hose cut to size?
- if it's the bottom pipe that's rusted through at the join, presumably that's going to be a bit more complicated?
Thx
6
« on: 30 October 2018, 09:33:48 am »
Hi,
Noticed last night arriving back home, a smell of burning coolant....
Checked this morning and the bottom seal between the rubber and metal pipes feeding into the bottom of the engine block (oil cooler?) looks like it's gone.
Is this something a novice mechanic could handle? Looks like you'd have to get the pipes off (?) and my 03 Fazer 1000 header bolts look like they're rusted solid. I presume the part would be cheap-ish, but the rest of the work looks frightening. Trouble is I can't drive it anywhere, I'd lose all the coolant in 10 minutes. Is this a squealer job?
Thanks,
Chris.
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« on: 21 October 2016, 08:39:48 pm »
Thx - I'll use a better lubricant, but I was more worried whether lubricating the pulley and the cable around it will make the pulley slip against the cable?... or doesn't it work this way?
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« on: 19 September 2013, 10:18:21 am »
The centre tread (c. 2 inches) is squared off i.e. sits perfectly flat on the road, whilst the sides have lost all curvature. Therefore in cross section looks like a V with a flattend base.
The bike got through its MOT with an advisory and the mechanic saying the pitch in on the turn was really bad. I've still got another 2K on the back I reckon, so will put a PR2 or BT023 on the front and see how I get on. I don't do many miles in a year, but I commute in all weathers every day.
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« on: 06 August 2013, 11:33:13 am »
Thanks for the replies gents - I'll think I'll look at the BT23s or the Avon Storms. Tyre pressures are as recommended (36/39).
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« on: 02 August 2013, 01:16:21 pm »
Need to replace the tyres on my Gen 1 since both the back and front BT021s are really squared off i.e. the tyres almost have a V cross-section now!. Annoyingly the tread itself has still got loads of life left.
A few questions:
- will it fail an MOT on squared off tyres?
- the squaring off is presumably a result of the dual compounds in the tyre - are these the norm now or can you buy uniform compound tyres?
- can anyone recommend a good replacement tyre for my riding style - 95% commuting 10 miles each way, the odd fun weekend jaunt - no scratching / track days etc. - around 4000 miles/year. Am more interested in a good wear / price relationship than ultra sticky tyres. Thanks.
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« on: 18 April 2013, 11:08:57 am »
At the risk of sounding wimpy, with current shite weather I'm wondering if leaving it to idle for 30 mins would do the same job in terms of engine heating/burning off the emulsion?
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« on: 17 April 2013, 12:48:13 pm »
Been noticing notchy gear changes recently, so thought I'd quickly check the oil level.... which seems to be down (no oil leaks apparent). However, through the viewing window I can see emulsion streaks, and the bottom of the filler cap and inside the side panel is thoroughly coated with white emulsion.
Head gasket is presumably a first potential culprit here, but the bike is otherwise running beautifully.
I'll drain the old oil (changed a year ago) and refill, but is there anything else I should check?
(The bike has been used pretty much every day over the last year (8 miles each way)).
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« on: 29 February 2012, 04:31:32 pm »
Just wanted to post a thread (partly to keep current on the site!) that might help others with poor battery performance.
Having gone through about 5 batteries since the OEM one died after 5 years, I've found a two-pronged solution. Haven't tested which one is the relevant one, but since:
- installing a Motobatt battery
- taking out the in-line fuse to my Oxford grips except when it's really cold
...my battery has performed flawlessly all winter.
14
« on: 24 October 2011, 09:21:14 am »
Had the batttery on Optimate for the last 3 days ... 2 green lights for two days now. Started OK this morning, then 10 minutes later after trip to shops, battery dead. Even if the regulator/rectifier were faulty, I suppose this proves that it's a dud battery.
I'll go and get a Varta or perhaps the Motoblatt someone mentioned above?
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« on: 20 October 2011, 12:30:58 pm »
My OEM battery for my Gen 1 lasted 5 years. Since then, I've had some (relatively) cheap MF batteries (c. £50) that last for 10 months on average. My most recent one now dies completely unless I've got it on Optimate overnight - particularly if it gets below 10 degrees or so.
Is this issue because:
- after-market cheap batteries give you what you pay for
- my Thatcham System 3 is the knackering batteries?
Is it difficult / expensive to get rid of the alarm system if this is a major drain. And otherwise, should I stop being stingey and just buy an OEM battery. (I did get an OEM one as a first replacement but that one only managed 3 months!)
I'm riding the bike every day for a 15 minute commute - but not using headlights (yes I know!)....
Any comments gratefully received.
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