Author Topic: Rough warm up? (Read 11652 times)

Dead Eye · « **Reply #25 on:** 05 March 2013, 01:33:29 pm »

Perhaps before hand it had a problem and now its fixed

darrsi · « **Reply #26 on:** 05 March 2013, 01:39:59 pm »

Quote from: Dead Eye on 05 March 2013, 01:33:29 pm

Perhaps before hand it had a problem and now its fixed

In that case i need to find out how to make it go wrong again?

richfzs · « **Reply #27 on:** 05 March 2013, 01:45:07 pm »

It's because you've been using that activ8 stuff, you've blocked the farkle gland...

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darrsi · « **Reply #28 on:** 05 March 2013, 01:49:23 pm »

Quote from: richfzs on 05 March 2013, 01:45:07 pm

It's because you've been using that activ8 stuff, you've blocked the farkle gland...

Sent from my HTC Desire S using Tapatalk 2

I know i'm gonna open the can of worms up again by saying this, but i reckon that is part of the reason why the bike has always started so well previously, less friction and all that.
But no doubt you'll all be queuing up to knock that theory down

simonm · « **Reply #29 on:** 05 March 2013, 01:55:47 pm »

Why don't you try starting it from cold tomorrow with the choke on and see what it does? Have the choke on before you start the bike for the first time though.

A motorbike is designed to use choke when it's cold. The only time it wouldn't be needed is possibly the height of summer or warmer climates.

richfzs · « **Reply #30 on:** 05 March 2013, 02:06:33 pm »

what Simon said

I've always used choke on to start mine, all the time since it was new.

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His Dudeness · « **Reply #31 on:** 05 March 2013, 02:22:32 pm »

I'd also agree with the other lads. If you never had to use the choke in any conditions that would suggest that the bike was running rich. Did you say you put a new air filter in recently? Maybe your old filter was causing a bit of a restriction to air flow and that was causing the bike to run on the rich side and now that you've changed to the new filter you've got more air flow so you need the choke on cold start ups which is the way it should be. That's all guess work though.

darrsi · « **Reply #32 on:** 05 March 2013, 02:37:18 pm »

Quote from: His Dudeness on 05 March 2013, 02:22:32 pm

I'd also agree with the other lads. If you never had to use the choke in any conditions that would suggest that the bike was running rich. Did you say you put a new air filter in recently? Maybe your old filter was causing a bit of a restriction to air flow and that was causing the bike to run on the rich side and now that you've changed to the new filter you've got more air flow so you need the choke on cold start ups which is the way it should be. That's all guess work though.

No, that was a few months back, this has happened within the last week.

richfzs · « **Reply #33 on:** 05 March 2013, 02:41:12 pm »

Quote from: darrsi on 05 March 2013, 01:49:23 pm

I know i'm gonna open the can of worms up again by saying this, but i reckon that is part of the reason why the bike has always started so well previously, less friction and all that.
But no doubt you'll all be queuing up to knock that theory down

Ok, I'll bite

Friction has nothing to do with the rough idle issue you have now. If it did, the bike either wouldn't turn over on the button, or if friction was actually causing it to stutter / idle roughly, you'd have so much damage going on you'd need a re- bore or a new engine.

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darrsi · « **Reply #34 on:** 05 March 2013, 03:21:34 pm »

Quote from: richfzs on 05 March 2013, 02:41:12 pm

Quote from: darrsi on 05 March 2013, 01:49:23 pm

I know i'm gonna open the can of worms up again by saying this, but i reckon that is part of the reason why the bike has always started so well previously, less friction and all that.
But no doubt you'll all be queuing up to knock that theory down

Ok, I'll bite

Friction has nothing to do with the rough idle issue you have now. If it did, the bike either wouldn't turn over on the button, or if friction was actually causing it to stutter / idle roughly, you'd have so much damage going on you'd need a re- bore or a new engine.

Sent from my HTC Desire S using Tapatalk 2

I know........

richfzs · « **Reply #35 on:** 05 March 2013, 03:39:06 pm »

I hate fishing, it's a stupid sport

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His Dudeness · « **Reply #36 on:** 05 March 2013, 03:49:51 pm »

Quote from: darrsi on 05 March 2013, 02:37:18 pm

No, that was a few months back, this has happened within the last week.

Damn! I thought that was a good theory

Here rich I reckon this is all a ruse! He's fabricated this whole story so he can come on here and post about some magic elixir that gives perfect starts every time. Funnily enough it will be called Startsi which is suspiciously close to darrsi and we'll have to pay him directly to get a bottle

richfzs · « **Reply #37 on:** 05 March 2013, 04:07:31 pm »

Sounded good to me, dudeness

I'll buy a bottle of that elixir tho, sounds like good stuff

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His Dudeness · « **Reply #38 on:** 05 March 2013, 04:25:13 pm »

Quote from: richfzs on 05 March 2013, 04:07:31 pm

Sounded good to me, dudeness

I'll buy a bottle of that elixir tho, sounds like good stuff

Sent from my HTC Desire S using Tapatalk 2

You'll have to PM darrsi about it

red98 · « **Reply #39 on:** 05 March 2013, 05:29:45 pm »

ooooooooooo...i`ll have two bottles...one for the bike and one for me,swmbo will be over the moon

His Dudeness · « **Reply #40 on:** 05 March 2013, 07:04:41 pm »

Only joking with you darrsi!

unfazed · « **Reply #41 on:** 05 March 2013, 07:21:06 pm »

Drain the float bowls and let it run through for about 30 secs. Yo could have water in the float bowls.

richfzs · « **Reply #42 on:** 05 March 2013, 07:39:38 pm »

worth trying I guess - but if its running fine once warmed up, I don't think that's the problem? It wouldn't go away as the bike warmed up?

darrsi · « **Reply #43 on:** 05 March 2013, 08:06:55 pm »

Quote from: unfazed on 05 March 2013, 07:21:06 pm

Drain the float bowls and let it run through for about 30 secs. Yo could have water in the float bowls.

Water from where, you mean in the fuel?
I've never touched the carbs before to be honest, it's just one of those things i know i'll mess up and as the bike is my only transport i really can't be doing with that!
I s'pose i could add some alcohol to the tank, that'll burn off any moisture in the fuel.

richfzs · « **Reply #44 on:** 05 March 2013, 08:58:25 pm »

Darrsi, at the bottom of each float bowl there's a wee drain screw. Picture 7.12 in the Haynes manual. Open each one in turn, don't worry, you can't foc up the carbon setting with this (unless you get the wrong screw

) and the picture is pretty clear.

As I say, not convinced it's the problem tho... Is it idling properly once warm?

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darrsi · « **Reply #45 on:** 05 March 2013, 09:08:14 pm »

Quote from: richfzs on 05 March 2013, 08:58:25 pm

Darrsi, at the bottom of each float bowl there's a wee drain screw. Picture 7.12 in the Haynes manual. Open each one in turn, don't worry, you can't foc up the carbon setting with this (unless you get the wrong screw ) and the picture is pretty clear.

As I say, not convinced it's the problem tho... Is it idling properly once warm?

Sent from my HTC Desire S using Tapatalk 2

Yeah, very stable, it's always been good on this bike.

simonm · « **Reply #46 on:** 05 March 2013, 09:23:06 pm »

attention: complete novice talking about stuff he knows nothing about

It might be worth checking all the hoses and rubbers for perishing/cracks/leaks too. Just looking at this post here http://yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/8243-yamaha-600-fazer/ which has no relevance but has a couple of ideas in it.

I'm just trying to think of things that would spontaneously happen through age/wear since nothing on the bike has changed recently.

I'm assuming the bike is garaged or is it stored outside ?

Simon

darrsi · « **Reply #47 on:** 05 March 2013, 09:29:28 pm »

Garaged at night.
If the weather's bad when i'm at work i have a place to shelter it, mainly in heavy rain, but i generally park outside reception which strangely enough keeps it in the shade for the whole day in summer, which is handy as well.

It's not an air leak as my idle would be ropey and acceleration would hesitate and splutter.

unfazed · « **Reply #48 on:** 05 March 2013, 09:52:04 pm »

When the bike is standing overnight any water in the petrol will sink to the bottom of the float bowls and when it is running for a while moves around due to the flow of petrol through the carbs, thus giving the indication of a starting problem like Darrsi describes. I am not saying it is the problem but by draining the bowls it rules out one possible cause of the problem.
The water can also lodge in the fuel filter since the filter lies on its side it holds it. I have changed many a fuel filter and usually drain it out of curiosity into a glass and have seen the water converge at the bottom overnight, especially prone on bikes which are used in all weathers and power hosed. Last Saturday I serviced my own 600 and 1000 and the 600 had water in the filter and the 1000 had water in the bowls and filters. The 1000 was awkward to start and would not pick up cleanly on the choke for the first 30 seconds or so, but was also misfiring at 11500 revs. Draining the bowls and changing the filter solved both problems.
I usually drain my tanks completely every 2 years to remove any water which may lodge in the bottom of the tank, which is where most tanks start to rust.
One of the first things I do when I get any bike with a starting or rough running issue is drain the carbs and leave the fuel run through for 20 -30 seconds. You would be amazed of how many it fixes
Darrsi, when draining the bowls just make sure you have the correct size head on the screwdriver for the drain screws and do not remove them completely or overtighten them. It will not effect anything else on the carbs, just cost you about a 50p worth of fuel.

darrsi · « **Reply #49 on:** 05 March 2013, 10:13:13 pm »

Okay, thanks very much for that info, that's very informative for me, although i probably won't be able to play about with it until Saturday morning now so bear with me.
I'm presuming petrol would float on water, so water should flow out first if the drainage screws are at the lowest point?
Also, you say don't take the screws right out, how do they drain with the screws still in then?
Excuse my ignorance, but me and the carbs have never met yet.