The resistors in the NGK one are wire wound whereas the Yamaha OEM ones are Carbon. The carbon ones are cheaper to manufacture, but their resistance values can vary by 20%. The wire wound ones are more accurate, normally within 5%.The carbon type age badly and the resistance rises as they get older and coupled with corrosion it plays havoc with the spark, causing misfires, poor starting and all sorts of other issuesBe sure to clean the brass piece deep in the cap also. I usually spray the inside of the cap with WD40 before reassemblyIf you put back the original caps with the NGK resistors pack the top of the cap with vaseline before replacing the rubber boot, no more water ingress.
Did you use the choke when starting it?
Sounds like blocked pilot jets.
I would think so, I normally use cellulose thinners to clean the jets as it will shift the crap in the jets. If you want to poke something through the jets to clear them or dislodge the crap, use brass wire as it will not damage the jets, since they are also brass, some will cringe as the thought of poking something through the jets, but brass on brass is fine.If the bike is left on the side stand for a long period then the first carb to be effected by fuel evaporation will be 4 and then 3.
The drain screws are made of soft cheese unfortunately. Look on AJ Sutton website.
A good fitting flat screwdriver should do the trick has a bit more bite. They will loosen with a crack and frighten the crap out of you Anti clockwise of course
have you adjusted the idle down, or did you turn it up to compensate for the poor idle issue you have had?try turning it down to 1200 and see how it runs... the cleaner may take a few runs to fully shift any crap.my mechanic told me to use injector cleaner in mine after a lay up, so ive done this the other day as my bike had no been out since last October and it runs fine.
Hi folks this is getting boring now i know but the saga continues ... broke my neck friday to finish early so i could get the bike out for a long blast the intention was wolverhampton, bridgnorth,telford n back to wolverhampton but only managed bridgnorth and back but what i did notice was the misfire is apparant up to 3.5k-4k rpm then it howls lovely right upto 10k rpm then loads of popping on the way back down the revs sooo took it to mechanic yesterday n cyl 1 was running 70° lower than the rest n he thinks deffo carb prob so ive brought a set off rmt on here n hopefully swap them over in the week n keep you postedGaz
Quote from: wildchild74 on 08 March 2015, 11:45:32 amHi folks this is getting boring now i know but the saga continues ... broke my neck friday to finish early so i could get the bike out for a long blast the intention was wolverhampton, bridgnorth,telford n back to wolverhampton but only managed bridgnorth and back but what i did notice was the misfire is apparant up to 3.5k-4k rpm then it howls lovely right upto 10k rpm then loads of popping on the way back down the revs sooo took it to mechanic yesterday n cyl 1 was running 70° lower than the rest n he thinks deffo carb prob so ive brought a set off rmt on here n hopefully swap them over in the week n keep you postedGazYou're only on Page 2, we're more patient than that, try reading this one. http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,2066.0.html
If there were no rattles when the bike was running leave it alone