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Messages - Likesbikes
1
« on: 14 April 2024, 11:58:59 am »
Cheers for the reply I’m on it. Just tweaked the little tang and refilled in the bench with the aid of spirit levels etc. I’ve already noticed the bubble issue you mentioned but we’re getting there, a mm or so within the mating surface now so a cuppa now while they’re draining. The only concern is if that bubble was there when it was tested on the bike I may still be chasing a non-problem 🤬
It was previously examined by a ‘professional’ due to time restrictions. Hoping this is it sorted because the bike needs to be gone soon
2
« on: 14 April 2024, 02:00:27 am »
Why did you adjust the float levels?
I didn’t. But I didn’t check them either, just drained them
3
« on: 13 April 2024, 06:33:18 pm »
After all that it’s the fuel level in the #3 float bowl, that’ll teach me for assuming!!
Can’t be bothered with it tonight, carbs out again in the morning. Any easy shortcuts to setting this up?
On the plus side, this morning we put a deposit on another bike. This one might still end up in the river 😆
4
« on: 12 April 2024, 09:05:10 pm »
Hi again chaps and cheers for all the input.
Had the carbs out this evening and the bike is now mostly back together. Together enough to run anyway. Think I’ve got somewhere with the pilot jet and associated passages, the engine really picks up when blipping the throttle however the idle is rougher than ever now, although I also tinkered with the balancing screws while everything was out. The suspect number three was the only one where you couldn’t see a sliver of daylight through the butterfly and I couldn’t help myself 😖
Will get the vacuum gauges out tomorrow, bit late now to be annoying the neighbours. Will update when I get round to it
5
« on: 07 April 2024, 08:47:49 pm »
That’s what I said, it’s not the ignition side as I’ve swapped the coils over completely from cylinders 1/4 and 2/3 and nothing has changed.
The coils resistance is a bit over spec but they’re working so they can have a reprieve. The question re the resistance of the caps (which also seem to work fine) is more out of curiosity.
Will be removing the carbs for a clean out next weekend, it’s not the first time with this bike but I’d rather have avoided that. This bike is the bane of my life and it’s not even mine haha
6
« on: 07 April 2024, 04:47:46 pm »
sounds like a blocked jet on #3
Unfortunately it would seem so. As said I’m just trying to eliminate simpler things before resigning myself to that. Swapped the coils over and #3 cylinder is still missing/cold so it’s not that. The primary resistance is also a touch high on both, so they might be on their way out anyway. However it doesn’t seem to be the cause of this problem so they can stay for now. As an aside I notice the replacement NGK caps are 5k rather than the specified 10k, what difference would that make?
7
« on: 07 April 2024, 01:45:38 pm »
Oh forgot to say, it’s got just over 48k on the clock.
It’s not my bike, it’s the wife’s. We bought it cheap and there was a lot to tell me it’d never been looked after particularly well. Think it’s just a dog if I’m honest, trying to convince her to buy a Tracer lol
8
« on: 07 April 2024, 01:42:40 pm »
Hey cheers from the reply.
Just back in from the garage for further exploration, on further examination my substandard ears seem to still hear a misfire at high revs and the feel of the exhaust flow at the tailpipe against my palm support this. Realise it’s not particularly scientific.
A spray of water on the downpipes reveals that #3 is running much cooler. Swapped the leads over between 2 and 3 and still running cool on 3 so I’ve eliminated that I think. Leads have been trimmed back and caps replaced in the last year or so. Checked gaps on all the spark plugs then swapped them around, still the same so I’m thinking the ignition is good.
The intake rubbers are nearly new, so I reckon it must be the carbs. They were out after we bought it for another issue and we had them cleaned while they were out. I do wonder if they only got a cursory clean at a local place.
9
« on: 07 April 2024, 12:03:00 pm »
Hi guys. Generally how long do the ignition coils/leads last on these bikes?
Got a ‘99 that is having some issues, suspect it’s the pilot circuit on the no.3 carb but they’ve already been out and cleaned. Just investigating other things before the PITA of taking them out again (more specifically the PITA of putting them back in).
The coils didn’t seem to match the Haynes manual specs although I’m not particularly good with a multi-meter so that could be me, the bike runs fine once revving but misfires on the 3rd cylinder at idle.
Cheers in advance
10
« on: 16 May 2023, 08:16:39 pm »
Do you mean this?
I need 3 I think. If, that is, I can get the things out. They seem to be very stuck indeed. I've snapped the tops off all 3 now. Any tips on that?
That’s the one
11
« on: 16 May 2023, 08:16:03 pm »
That’s the one
12
« on: 23 April 2023, 12:00:46 pm »
Hey all, anyone know where I can source a single one? One of mine has been mullered solid in place, finally got it out and replaced with something that works ok but I’d like the correct one ideally.
I’ve messaged a firm called carbtech on eBay who I’ve dealt with before but not heard back as yet. Fowlers only list a set of four at 50 odd quid, which I’d rather not spend on three I don’t need.
Any pointers appreciated as always.
Cheers, Darren
13
« on: 07 March 2023, 07:47:17 pm »
Cheers all. Any opinions on the MRA touring screen (or similar) by itself, with or without the adjustable spoiler thing?
14
« on: 07 March 2023, 04:36:18 pm »
People straddling the bike… sitting on the bike pushing the bike with the bars…
I’m going to start a business called centre stand school, seems I could make a fortune haha
15
« on: 07 March 2023, 03:37:29 pm »
Hi all, looking to upgrade the screen on my fiancée’s Mk1 600. Before someone helpfully suggests I use the search function I realise there are topics on this already but I have a bit of a more specific question so apologies for that.
In my experience the MRA screens are generally the best choice so I’ve been looking at them. Now there’s the touring screen and the touring screen with the adjustable spoiler thing - she’s around 5’7 so I don’t know if the spoiler thing is necessary or just adding more wind noise unnecessarily? We have an intercom to talk to each other and with the standard screen it’s largely useless over about 60 with the wind noise round her helmet, particularly on the left side where the intercom module thing is mounted. She doesn’t want to have to ‘look through’ the screen to ride.
Does anyone have experience with these screens for a rider at this sort of height.
The other options are ‘double bubble’ type screens but I’ve always felt these are better for racing crouch type riding? She’s not long had her licence and as such more of a sit up/touring style rider.
Any help or suggestions appreciated as I’m looking to get it ordered for her upcoming birthday.
Cheers all, Darren
16
« on: 05 December 2022, 09:20:19 pm »
We stuck some whiter/brighter bulbs in which I’d say improved things marginally. I reckon crappy reflectors are crappy reflector regardless of the bulbs you have in there. But it looks more modern at night at least lol.
I’m pondering chucking the headlight unit in the oven to see if I can open it up, the brighter bulbs really highlighted the cobwebs and dust inside which can’t be helping it any.
Shame really because I was really impressed with the way this bike rides and handles (and now presumably goes?) for an old girl, as long as you don’t want to ride it out of town in the dark
17
« on: 05 December 2022, 11:04:02 am »
I went for the Pipercross one, purely on cost. If we were planning to keep the bike longer we’d have gone K&N but the plan is to get her some experience on this tatty bike then look for something nicer.can’t test it properly at the moment as it’s off road, I've just bought a second bike for myself and had too much tied up in tax and insurance on three bikes before she ‘buys’ it off me.
She’s ridden the Fazer on a private road a few times in preparation for her more formal training and loves it so we’re thinking of maybe looking for a nicer example when the time comes, maybe a 2003 model? These look to me just to be a more modern looking fairing with better lights, have I got that right or is there more to it than that? The other thought is the later R6 engined model but that seems to be held in less regard going on the little bits I’ve read about it. Doubtless I’m be researching and seeking opinions on here nearer the time.
18
« on: 02 December 2022, 09:02:08 pm »
Update…
Well Darrsi wins the virtual prize, a performance filter has done it the world of good. Free revving and sounds less 70’s and much more like a modern bike. Unfortunately it’s SORN’d at the moment so can’t test ride it but I’m pretty certain it’ll go a lot better. Although now the idle is creeping up a bit if left to run for a while, not sure it’s particularly a problem so will keep an eye on that once I can get it up the road.
But anyway many thanks all, particularly Darrsi and Unfazed. Appreciate everyones input, great community here. Now if I could just get some more illumination out of the feeble headlights 😆
19
« on: 16 November 2022, 06:53:41 pm »
I meant I examined it for filth 😆
20
« on: 15 November 2022, 12:13:41 pm »
Not a bad shout that, I did examine the filter while reassembling everything and it looked good. However who knows where it came from, never noticed any obvious markings that pointed to a manufacturer on it.
Speaking of parts manufacturers I meant to add, the manifold rubbers I bought were Tourmax ones. The markings on them were identical to the originals in every way, right down to the ‘5DM’ Fazer code and the manufacturers logo and so much cheaper than the Yamaha packaged ‘genuine’ ones. Don’t know if this is well known on here but hopefully it’s of interest to someone?
21
« on: 13 November 2022, 10:22:41 pm »
Hey all. Apologies for not getting back sooner, been busy buying a new bike and stuff so never got to the Fazers carbs til today. Anyway got them out no real problems with that, no restrictor kit in the inlets so ruled that out. The rubber boots were like new on the inside but I’d already bought replacements so put them on anyway. Took off the float bowls and found rust particles in the bottom that had partially blocked the jets. Cleaned it all up and reassembled them. All back in easy enough although the air box was a pain to get square on the carbs. Shook the tank up and drained some fuel through the tap into a bottle with no sign of rust so I’m hoping it was from a petrol station with nasty tanks? The guy lived out in the sticks so maybe. Will check the filter periodically to be on the safe side.
So the bike obviously goes a bit better, still feels a bit wheezy to me but maybe I need to look at my expectations? I notice the exhaust is particularly quiet on it, far mor mechanical noise from the engine and transmission than the exhaust unless the revs are right up there. Is the standard silencer particularly quiet on these? I could do with a more familiar owner to have a listen and maybe take it for a spin.
22
« on: 01 November 2022, 02:09:36 pm »
Oh I didn’t realise it fell into that bracket, thought it was a bhp or two over the threshold.
Anyway I have a decent set of intake boots and an ethanol friendly carb kit on their way. Looking at the state of the rubbers I’m not sure they’ll survive the ordeal of removal to get a look inside them. Hope this works, the way things are going with new bits we’re going to have two part worn tyres with a brand new Fazer sat on them.
Will certainly be looking into a K&N or similar assuming we can get it running right first. I have a race can to suit in my garage, need to order a link pipe but she’s not convinced lol.
23
« on: 31 October 2022, 10:12:13 pm »
Cheers @Unfazed for the part numbers and the o ring heads up, will be very useful.
The TPS was a new pattern part of dubious origins, however it seems better than the mikuni original that I’m assuming is the actual original. As said I’ve not had the time for too much involved investigation but I’m hoping to get into the guts of it a bit this weekend, still have to investigate the possibility of a restrictor kit as suggested early on in the thread. Im not sure the likelihood of an A2 restrictor kit on a bike this old (also isn’t it technically too powerful for that as it can’t be more than double the A2 limit?) and if it’s an old 33bhp kit I think it has a bit more than that but who knows - need to inspect the rubbers anyway.
Not sure it’s ready for a K&N just yet, let’s just make it work properly for now
24
« on: 31 October 2022, 06:58:38 pm »
Unfazed… cheers for all that, very helpful. The plug caps are already done which made it better, the downpipes warmed up evenly and smoothed it out a bit. The R1 TPS is already fitted and seems to be working a little better although strictly speaking it probably wasn’t necessary. However it did feel a lot smoother in its operation than the existing one so probably would need one at some point anyway. The cam chain tensioner I suspect is stuck and hopefully just needs a clean to free it up, the rattling doesn’t ease up as the engine gets warm.
My plan was to have the carbs out over the weekend but with one thing or another I never had the time so fingers crossed for this Saturday. I have an ultrasonic cleaner for the jets etc so hopefully this will sort them. Will have a look on wemoto for the intake boots, probably the carb bits too.
Last but not least will be the valve clearances, am I right in thinking they’re every 24,000 miles? If that’s the case they’re not too far off due and that’s assuming they were done already.
If all that doesn’t work can anyone recommend somewhere to get a gallon of petrol and some matches? 😆
25
« on: 31 October 2022, 02:13:00 pm »
Interesting, will be examining them at the weekend anyway - work gets in the way of this important stuff. Wondered if the cheap and cheerful ones were any good, if so I’d get a set anyway. That said I might try sealing the old ones with some sort of glue, see if it helps.
Want the carbs out of the way anyway to look at the cam chain tensioner
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