This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - Lonewolf
1
« on: 07 May 2019, 04:41:48 pm »
Steve........Plugs changed yesterday. I checked the gaps and they were all bigger than .7 mm. Bike appears to be running ok now after brief test run. I also did a wet kitchen towel test on the headers after switching off, all four sizzled. It was difficult to pull the coils as they were very tight but after loosening off the rad I managed (skinned knuckles though). A tip I’d like to pass on is when you remove the bottom rad retaining bolt, pop a slotted tennis ball over the curved bracket, this ensures that you won’t damage the rad when pulling it about during the plug removals. I’ll see what happens when I take the bike out next time for a proper run. 
2
« on: 04 May 2019, 02:32:14 pm »
Test away then Steve, I hope your coils are healthy.
If mine or one of mine is duff obviously I’ll have to replace it or them. I notice that the prices vary wildly from over £100 each for oe to say £30 ish for replicas (Chinese) which I’d be wary of.
I have seen some from the US, ‘SPARK-HOUSE’, who get a good write up and at a reasonable price so may go for them.
Can anyone recommend viable replacements other than oe?
3
« on: 03 May 2019, 04:50:34 pm »
Ok......The manual states: Primary 1.19 to 1.61 ohms. Secondary 8.50 to 11.5 k ohms. So on my multitester I turned the dial to the 200 ohm mark for the primary, and for the secondary I set it to the 20k ohm mark as the secondary test is in kilo ohms. There are lots of examples on YouTube as to where you connect your multimeter to for each test as they differ. No doubt someone will now reply and say I’ve done it wrong, but we all live and learn. 
4
« on: 03 May 2019, 10:56:34 am »
Cheers Steve, my plugs have come (earwig after all) so I’ll start there. I’m still thinking the coil / coils will make an appearance as I did test one which according to the specs given indicate it may be goosed. It did have a little line of what looked like rust on one of the joints on the body, (which was surprising as the bike is immaculate for a 11 year old bike).
I’ll test the others as well when I do the plugs.
By the way, did you manage by just pivoting the rad forward?
Thanks again your input has been helpful.
5
« on: 01 May 2019, 07:02:17 pm »
Gen 2 2008 fz1s fazer: Yesterday I attempted to go for a ride, on starting off the bike bogged a little but off we went to some traffic lights where we stopped. Same thing happened again, had to rev more than usual to pull away. This happened several more times so ride was aborted and home.
I’m guessing that it may be related to a coil. I’ve ordered new plugs as it does need a change so will be doing them. I took out the LH side coil out today (nearside) and did a test as shown on YouTube, the primary test showed up as 3.1 ohms and tha secondary was 9.45 k ohms.
I gather the first result is classed as a fail (as per manual instruction) the secondary falls into the pass range.
(I must add that I’m in no way electrically savvy so relied on YouTube for help)
Do you think I’m on the right track with my checking.......I intend to check the other 3 coils when I change the plugs?
Another thing.......I ordered the plugs as per the handbook, but when I removed the plug today it looked like the pic in the manual (earwig tail shape) but the new plugs ordered look like a conventional plug. (NGK/ CR9EK)
Any advice appreciated.
6
« on: 16 April 2019, 04:32:09 pm »
I have a gen 2 fz1s (2008) with a Mivv suono exhaust can with which I replaced the original. I always thought it seemed a tad loud but I’m now of the impression that it’s too loud especially around town. Can anyone recommend anything that could be done to quieten it down a little. I was even thinking of replacing the original exhaust can back on but I took it off in the first place as I thought it wasn’t as aesthetically nice as a shorter can.
It has the plug in place by the way, goodness knows what it would be like without that?
Any ideas?
7
« on: 27 June 2016, 06:40:31 pm »
Hi, I have a 2008 FZ1 Fazer with abs which when pressing the starter makes 2 sluggish turns which is followed by a rapid electrical clicking sound. I initially thought this was down to a depleted battery so bought a motobatt replacement as I thought the original wasn't holding a charge. This seemed to sort things but now I'm back to the sluggish turns and the clicking. The battery is showing 12.56 volts and I've tested for parasitic drain but nothing read out on the multimeter. I'm now thinking solenoid or starter (pardon my ignorance but I'm no expert). Any ideas from yourselves. The bike by the way is in mint condition and owned from new.
8
« on: 01 June 2013, 01:47:44 pm »
Yamaha 'Dark Side' they're reportedly bringing a Triple out  ........unveiled June 11th I think. Anyone know any more?
9
« on: 01 June 2013, 01:44:27 pm »
No point asking for opinions Bitfik, if nothing lands on your doormat within the next 2 weeks you're ok, if something does and you were doing 48 in a 30 then I doubt whether you'd be offered a place on the 'course'. Keep your fingers crossed. I got done for 37 in a 30.
10
« on: 04 May 2013, 11:52:58 am »
That little 4 wheeled stand in the pics looks the biz....where did you get that from? How much?
11
« on: 04 May 2013, 11:47:44 am »
I hope it doesn't vibrate about on the move as it will rub away at the surrounding bodywork  Is there any rubber / neoprene to isolate it from the bodywork panels? It sort of looks like a little coffin for dispatching small animals.....new business venture there mate 
12
« on: 03 May 2013, 03:27:48 pm »
You've got a problem...........far too much time on your hands  Get a Ventura system, brilliant.............45 litres of chips please, go easy on the vinegar!
13
« on: 03 May 2013, 03:20:34 pm »
I've had my Zumo lead hard wired into a switched circuit as it was draining the battery even when not connected, albeit after a few weeks and only if bike not used. I had this done at the dealers when getting a service done so I'm not sure where it was spliced into and thus not helpful. But, and it's a big but, when I enquired about getting it done the dealer said 'oh we'll splice into the brake wire', but the mechanic said 'no we can't do that due to the bike having ABS, I'll find another circuit'...Be warned, I'm not sure why this could not be done, perhaps something to do with the electrical gubbins that control the ABS.
14
« on: 17 April 2013, 03:45:55 pm »
I had my 2008 FZ1s lowered shortly after I bought it. (I'm 5'-6"). I could envisage me dropping it on dodgy ground. Changed the dogbones for Maxton (not cheap but excellent quality), which were slightly longer than stock (only a few mm, a little gives a lot).This lowered the bike by about an inch or thereabouts. The forks were also dropped through the yokes by about 8mm, to keep things right. No steering issues.
I stuck with the sidestand as it was but found it a bit precarious inasmuch as the bike was quite upright and you had to be careful in selecting level ground
or park on the downslope. In the end I got 12mm taken out and the stand rewelded and powder coated....job done. No clearance issues for me, perhaps my riding style,
ie no knee down heroics. Chicken strips on rear tyre about 5mm. Bike rocks up high on the centrestand but not an issue. Good for getting the back wheel off. Hope this helps.
15
« on: 06 April 2013, 01:08:33 pm »
I fitted a Mivv Suono to my 2008 FZ1. Looks good, shortish but quite loud even with the DB killer fitted. The noise is ok over 50 but annoyingly loud in town imho, ear plugs are a must. Crackles a bit on the overrun too, so if that's what floats yer boat try a Mivv. It went straight on with no problems. You will have to remove the exup cables of course but that's not a difficult job.
16
« on: 20 February 2013, 04:17:04 pm »
I've often dreamt of that happening up in the 'Borders', if done properly I reckon it'll get massive support. The area has been and is a hotbed for road racers. Bring it on I say. 
17
« on: 08 February 2013, 02:16:14 pm »
I'm with Pat on this one, the day-glo works in daylight, crap under streetlights, and the reflective strips do what it says on the tin ie reflect light shone on it. I've often seen cyclists and motorcyclists wearing dayglo disappearing into the gloom probably thinking they're 'highly visible'......you're not! So if you get a vest or jacket I think the best bet is to get something highly reflective for best visibility.
18
« on: 21 July 2012, 03:07:30 pm »
I thought you had to carry spare bulbs, documents ie 2 part driving licence, insurance cert, mot (if applicable), GB sticker if it isn't on your number plate. Google for info. Also remember you will need at least 2 breathalysers 'cos if you have to use one then you automatically have a spare. If you don't have the spare then they will do you if you ride off for not having one. 
19
« on: 19 July 2012, 05:30:14 pm »
Almax chain, squire lock and ground anchor (recommended by Almax) ........Chain and lock not very portable,
as it weighs a ton, unless you have a top box but a good combo for home use.
20
« on: 16 March 2012, 11:05:48 am »
Thanks for the replies, I'll have to check things when I get home.
Tyre is definitely the right way rotationwise and the wheel can only go on one way due to the ABS gubbins.
I'll do a proper daylight check when I return home.
21
« on: 15 March 2012, 12:03:07 pm »
Putting the bike (Gen 2 FZ1 Fazer) away the other day I noticed what to my eyes looked like a silver 'direction arrow' on the outside edge of the front offside brake disc.
(I didn't have my specs on though and it was gloomy in the garage so I may have been mistaken).
Can anyone confirm if the front discs have a rotation direction bias?
If it's what I suspect then the discs may have been removed when I got new tyres and subsequently refitted to the wrong side of the wheel by the dealer!
That's if the discs have to be removed to fit on the tyre fitting machine of course.
As I was in a hurry at the time I haven't had time to recheck this as yet.
Any ideas?
22
« on: 19 January 2012, 06:43:31 pm »
I bought an Airhawk just before going on a French tour. The reason........popped a rivet a week before the trip. As far as I'm concerned it was worth every penny, I couldn't believe how more comfy it made things, no problems at all. It arrived the day before I left for France thank god!
23
« on: 19 January 2012, 06:29:51 pm »
Can anyone tell me if it's safe to connect to an usecured internet connection piggy back style using a wireless laptop?
24
« on: 09 January 2012, 12:55:15 pm »
For Peejay......... That's what I thought, but apparently it was draining the battery. As part of the sat nav wiring there is a little black box attached and this was deemed to be the cause of the problem, albeit draining slowly. On a daily basis you don't notice as the battery charges up under use but leave it a while, say 2 weeks, and it flattens. Now the same wire is controlled by a switched circuit, problem sorted
25
« on: 08 January 2012, 11:35:03 am »
Garmin Zumo 220.........waterproof as it's bike dedicated. Had mine wired direct from battery which was fine when touring daily, but when bike was laid up for a couple of weeks I found it was draining the battery even with the sat nav removed from the bike. Now I've had it wired in to a switched circuit (not by me I'm pleased to say as I probably would have caused electrical meltdown  ), everything is fine. A word of warning; when I got the wiring done the guys had to find a circuit which wasn't related to the ABS system (Gen 2 FZ1S Fazer abs). I can only assume it could affect the ABS system if you splice in other kit ??? Now coupled with an Interphone headset so I can hear the instructions too, very handy piece of kit.
|
Show Posts