Won't start, with loud bang's

[Jays83]

Hello fellow fazerians,


My 03 fazer is having serious problems. Today i was going for a ride and she just would'nt start, when all off the sudden it made a really loud bang. After many try's it finally started with no strange noises. While driving, after about 10-15 minutes it suddenly started to go nuts, the engine dies and than with an loud bang it started running again. A lot of times the engine died and i've had to start it by putting it in gear and let go of the clutch. This went on for about 10 minutes and now it won't start at all.
If i try to start it now i smell fuel from the exhaust so i guess that it's getting fuel.
I've checked the plugs and they all spark, i've checked them on both bobines(not sure how it's called in english, coils maybe)
I also cleaned the ground connection but that did'nt help either.
Does anybody know where to look for the solution.

[b1k3rdude]

Had it been raining the day you had the issues? if the plug caps are worn and aren't sealing against the top of the cam-cover water can get down into the plug gallery it will cause a shorts etc.

If its not water under the caps and its not the plugs/coils, then it might be fuel related. Have you checked the fuel filter and the fuel pump (left hand side cover) -

• is the fuel pipe unobstructed and isn't kinked anywhere.
• its also worth making sure the breather pipe are kinked (right-rear of the fuel tank)
• is the inline fuel filter dirty clogged..?
• does the pump making a clicking sound when you first turn on the ignition (after the bike has been left to sit for a bit)

If its not either of all of the above, it might be worth checking fuel tank filter isnt clogged.
if its non of these thing then someone will be along with other suggestions.

[Falcon 269]

My first checks would be (after the earth connections) the ignition switch and the Run/Stop switch.  Flush the ignition switch with contact cleaner.  Check all the wiring running to both switches, looking for signs of failure.

The bang is unburnt fuel in the exhaust suddenly igniting as the sparks come to life.  I don't think it's fuel-related.

[tex]

I had exactly the same issue last year . Turned out to be a plug . It still sparked when checked out the head but must have been breaking down under load.  Put new plugs in curved it

[Jays83]

Good evening, well not so good for me.
I thought it would be a good idea to check the valve clearances and they were all within specs. I discovered that the coolant pipes on top of the engine were in bad shape so ordered 2 new ones. Well... one came loose pretty easy but the bolt on the other one was so rusted it snapped. I guess i have to take out the entire engine now.
Looks like i'm not riding any time soon.

[Jays83]

The damage

[b1k3rdude]

I guess i have to take out the entire engine now

Not necessarily, check with your local engineering shop or a good mechanic. If there is enough clearance around the top of the engine and the frame, that will give them a good chance of them getting it out for you. Worst case yes the engine will need to come out, but on the FZS1000 that easy due to one of the frame rails being removable.

In the photo I can see lots of dirt on the camshaft and its lobes (from pressumably when took the cover off), you really don't want this going into the engine.

[Jays83]

I guess i have to take out the entire engine now

Not necessarily, check with your local engineering shop or a good mechanic. If there is enough clearance around the top of the engine and the frame, that will give them a good chance of them getting it out for you. Worst case yes the engine will need to come out, but on the FZS1000 that easy due to one of the frame rails being removable.

In the photo I can see lots of dirt on the camshaft and its lobes (from pressumably when took the cover off), you really don't want this going into the engine.

Thank's for the advice, i will definitly clean it all up, there was nothing i could do to prevent it from getting there. The pipes were rusted so bad they almost fell apart.

[Gnasher]

Looks like salt corrosion and as pointed out the cams and head look to be in poor condition.  Looking at the water gallery, it suggest the bikes been running with little or no antifreeze for sometime.   While you're doing all this work it would be a good idea to check the water pump, thermostat and the rad for sediment.     

[Jays83]

When i bought the bike the waterpump was broken, it threw out the coolant trough the wheephole on the bottom of the engine. Is that the reason for the brownish color? When i'm taking the motor out, are there any smart things to do once it's out. I will have easy acces to all the components.

[Gnasher]

Yes the brown is corrosion from the water pump and components like the steel water pipe.  I suggest you need to flush the whole cooling system with proper system flushing agent, you may need to do that a few times, especially the rad.   

[Jays83]

I've already replaced the radiator. But that was just before this happened. I will flush the whole system.

[Gnasher]

Do the rad again.  What else has gone wrong with the bike that you've not mentioned?  I'm thinking this was a non runner or poor runner and perhaps recently bought it?


The starting running issue could be the reason or one reason why it was sold?   

[Jays83]

I bought the bike with a leaking waterpump, there was no coolant in the oil and it started fine. I took it home on a trailer and replaced the water/oilpump. I noticed there was a lot of debris inside the gastank so i cleaned that out. After that i cleaned the carbs wich were pretty full of crap. After i've put it all together it ran great the first time i took it for a trip. After that it's been in the garage for 2 weeks and when i tried to start it then it was very hard to start but it started, i then made a trip of about 100km without issues. Parked it in the garage again and took it out a week later. Then at first the  engine would'nt start and gave a very loud bang. After a few try's it ran like nothing happened but as soon as i hit the gass it dies.
My guess was that the carbs were clogged, and i thougt that while i got the carb's out it's a good time to check the valve clearances. But then this happened.

[Jays83]

Hope you can read my writing, i'm from Holland so it's not somthing i do every day.

[Gnasher]

Yes you're writing (English) is fine, way better than my Dutch would be 

I think you've got a fuel/tank contamination (rust) which is the route of your fuelling problem. Once rust is in the tank unless its properly treated just draining it won't get rid of it and the sediment will build up again and get back into into the carbs/s causing the fuelling problems you're having.

Also depending on how bad the rust is it can't be treated, it has to be cut out or the tank replaced, the latter being your best bet.     

[Decoke Dave]

   Curious to roughly find out the service history and mileage of the bike, seen many a Fazer with a low mileage but been sat hardly used after a winter or two with salt laden roads that were in horrendous condition!  Common problem to many makes and models but it must be said our Fazers rate at one of the worst in this respect!     P.s. But we must remember Gen 1s are all now old bikes!

[Jays83]

Bought the bike with 80.000km or 50.000miles.
I've decided that i'm taking the cilinderhead off to drill out the snapped bolt and also to clean it. All this work and still not busy with solving the starting/driving issue.
Is there any way to set/control the timing if i mess it up? I now made sure that the cam lobes on cilinder one are pointing away from eachother.

[Gnasher]

Bought the bike with 80.000km or 50.000miles.
I've decided that i'm taking the cilinderhead off to drill out the snapped bolt and also to clean it. All this work and still not busy with solving the starting/driving issue.
Is there any way to set/control the timing if i mess it up? I now made sure that the cam lobes on cilinder one are pointing away from eachother.

Your starting and running issues, are I'm pretty sure rust sediment in the crabs.  You need to sort out the tank, either treat the rust properly, cut it out or replace the tank, reclean the fuel system, carbs and properly treat and flush the whole cooling system.  That should sort out the starting/running problems you've got. 

As for timing not really, you could clamp the cams but is a fuff and not required.  All you need do is ensure the crank and camshaft marks are correctly positioned as per the manual.   

[Jays83]

Thank you for your advice, i've just taken the head off.
Now i'm waiting for my wife to leave the house so i can put it in the dishwasher

[robbo]

Thank you for your advice, i've just taken the head off.
Now i'm waiting for my wife to leave the house so i can put it in the dishwasher

I like your style . Hope all goes well.

[SkidT]

Now i'm waiting for my wife to leave the house so i can put it in the dishwasher

Excellent.    A man after my own heart.    Good luck with it.

[Jays83]

Today was the day, after a couple of weeks waiting for parts it all came in last thursday. It took me two evenings to put it all back together and today i finally started it. There is only one thing that doesn't seem wright.
When the engine is running idle everything goes well butt when i rev it up a little to some 4000rpm and i close the throttle, the rpm's go down very slow. Almost like the throttle cable is stuck but it's not.
Also while riding i noticed that when i pull the clutch, the rpm's go up. I changed the idle a couple of times and that did help but after a while the same thing happened.


Before i fitted ivans full monty i did not have this problem.
Yes i've balanced the carbs an adjusted the tps.


Can anyone point me in a direction to look at.

[Trebus]

Sounds like an air leak somewhere.

[Jays83]

Thank's, i'll spray some brake cleaner on the inlet rubbers to check if somethings sucking up false air.