Experiences using a 4 degree advance rotor

[Gaz66]

Hi Peeps.


Anyone using a 4 degree advance rotor on a 1000?
Just tried one on mine yesterday & the old girl has a tad more grunt in the lower rpm range, but not impressed in general.
It's ruined the buttery smooth bottom end & turned the motor into a jerkomatic below 3,000rpm.
Reckon i'll refit the OEM rotor later, just need to make a new gasket up.

[PieEater]

Certainly not my experience with an advancer, nice improvement in the bottom end, still really smooth, I love the way the bike can pull from 30mph in 6th gear fully loaded. I can only think yours is slightly out of tolerance?

[jul1us]

I recently put in my ignition advancer and took it for a quick spin around town right after that.

What I noticed is smoother and more direct throttle low down.

But you're not the only one noticing vibes:

https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=344.0

[Trebus]

Happy with mine but I did the filing modification rather than a buying a new one. Also got Ivan’s slip on carb kit for info.

[Gaz66]

Certainly not my experience with an advancer, nice improvement in the bottom end, still really smooth, I love the way the bike can pull from 30mph in 6th gear fully loaded. I can only think yours is slightly out of tolerance?

Mines an Ivans Full Monty job with ported carb mounts & airbox lid mod & pipercross, bikes a rocket & smooth as silk at all rev ranges once I'd had a play with the mixture screws, which if set as Ivan recommends, it's way too rich, maybe I should have gone with my first gut instinct & drilled only 1 hole in each carb, she's runs mint with minimal vibes now.


So me being me, I like to try new stuff, so I bought the CCDF rotor, seemed the best around on sale & seller is the actual manufacturer, part was listed as early R1 fitment, so a message to seller confirmed it can be used on the Fazer 1000 motor ... before fitting I placed it over the OEM rotor & it's identical apart from the centre hole slot is approx a 2mm difference from the OEM, I did consider filling the OEM rotor, but decided against it in the end. New 4 degree rotor needed a tiny bit of file attention to a few bits of flashing around the edges on the pick up tips, as it's clearly been stamped from a sheet of metal & not laser cut as I thought, seller stated it's a magnetic stainless rotor, it is indeed magnetic, tested before fitting, rotor also needed a tiny bit of filing on the centre hole slot as too tight a fit on the crank end ... I've given it a good 50mile blast yesterday, can defo feel the difference in grunt out of corners etc from low rpm's but it just feels too rough at low revs for my liking, ie) filtering in traffic etc is not good & too jerky, bit like an injected bike on a factory fuel map, very much like my 5th Gen VFR800fi, so after sleeping on it, OEM rotor is going back in.
May work better on a stock motor, clearly my motor aint too happy with it at low rpm's.
The old saying applies on this occasion, "If it aint broke, don't fix it".
You win some, you lose some.

[jul1us]

Mine is also the same CCDF rotor which you have. Instead of filing it, I gave it a very light tap with a hammer and it fits very snug. Did you file it on the left or right side? If on the left the advancing might be little more than 4 degrees?


I am going the other way as you, the ignition rotor was the first mod, the rest is being done at the moment. On the stock bike it was very smooth at low rpms, I will update here once I've got the full monty done which I'm almost finished with.


What difference does it make if the rotor is magnetic or not?

[Gaz66]

Mine is also the same CCDF rotor which you have. Instead of filing it, I gave it a very light tap with a hammer and it fits very snug. Did you file it on the left or right side? If on the left the advancing might be little more than 4 degrees?


I am going the other way as you, the ignition rotor was the first mod, the rest is being done at the moment. On the stock bike it was very smooth at low rpms, I will update here once I've got the full monty done which I'm almost finished with.


What difference does it make if the rotor is magnetic or not?

Re: CCDF advancer being too tight on crank, I barely took off a few thou of material, just dressed up the key way slot to make it fit like the OEM rotor, don't forget different metals expand different amounts, so hammering a stainless rotor onto a hardened cast steel crank isn't the best idea, cranks are known to break on many bikes, even later crossplane R1's suffer crank failures.


Ooo carb mods, brings back memories, my advice is replace all the O-rings while they're apart, I think it's since been discovered, probly by Falcon that drilling only 1 bypass hole per carb is actually enough, I drilled 2 per carb as Ivan recommends, now regret not trying it with 1 hole drilled, I found Ivans mixture screw settings way too rich & the choke was ineffective & emissions smelt really rich, idled crap too, put a few miles on it, bike was drinking fuel big time, the mixture screw springs felt too weak set at Ivans settings & I was concerned about the screws vibrating out, probly wouldn't but I'm too OCD, so tried em at 4 turns out, still felt too rich & choke was barely effective, I've since reduced em to 3.25 turns out bike seems far happier & choke is now effective, starts 1st time from cold with half choke.


I also believe there's another mod (R1 cams) no info, just heard it's been done.
Let us know how you get on with the F/Monty & 4 degree advancer.