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Topics - fazersharp
26
« on: 05 January 2020, 12:00:34 pm »
The 2019 FOC-U Bike Picture Challenge A reiteration of the rules. 1. All challenges must be of YOUR bike and a landmark, or something obscure or creative, something most people can ride to in their area. 2. Picture has to be taken after challenge is made. 3. Challenge is good for a week; if it is not met after that time, the previous picture poster picks a new challenge. 4. Nothing illegal to be challenged. 5. Keep comments to a minimum; if you comment, post the current challenge in bold type after your comment. 6. No repeat challenges. 7. No other bikes can be used, eg, your bike next to a Ducati. Some exceptions will be allowed, eg, your bike next to a bike cop. 8. Only 1 person can win each challenge; any other entrants will not be counted, due to throwing the whole game off track and adding challenges that don't stand. 9. If any dispute about a challenge occurs, 3 oks from others settles the challenge. Remember, this thread is supposed to get people to want to go ride straight away and beat others to the challenge - be creative, but be sensible about it. Have fun Foccers!
27
« on: 07 December 2019, 09:12:11 pm »
How does it work when you search on ebay via nearest and you get all these results in your town but then when you scroll down you can see the address is actually china - the address is even written in Chinese and its two weeks delivery WFT! How does that work.
28
« on: 06 November 2019, 09:49:04 pm »
What happened all day
29
« on: 08 June 2019, 10:40:30 am »
Just seen in the news police are looking at introducing "acoustic cameras" to catch loud exhausts. I assume it is a mic attached to a camera to get your sound levels and then trigger a camera for your numberplate.
30
« on: 27 May 2019, 07:33:26 pm »
I deed to replace a little sound system and the one I am looking to buy has a Speaker power 20 W (10 W + 10 W) But I already have speakers in position and I upgraded the wire to 42/0.15mm 3x6mm (whatever that is )My worry is using the in-situ speakers with the new system as I do not know what my current speakers power is. Looking down the back in an air hole thing I can see printed on the speaker I think it says 5W 8 ohlms but that is only on the small speaker as the bigger one has not got a hole. They are small at 20 x18x13 The online manual says this Use the speakers only with the recommended system.If not, you can cause damage to the amplifier andspeakers and can cause a fire. Consult an approvedservice personnel if damage occurs or if there is a sudden apparent change in performance The spec for the new system speakers is --- Speaker power 20 W (10 W + 10 W)So would it be ok to use the in situ speakers or would I actually get a better sound with the new spec speakers.I do not have any info on the old system.
31
« on: 25 May 2019, 10:40:27 am »
Who wants my loctite 620. I brought a 50ml bottle for the front sprocket and probably will not have use for it again, but just in case I do I have decanted about 7 ml to keep for myself. If anyone wants the rest they can have it for free.
Maybe use what you nee and pass it on to another Focer.
32
« on: 12 May 2019, 09:27:46 pm »
hugger after about 4 years of dry weather only riding. Since I last took it off to clean
33
« on: 11 May 2019, 06:55:49 pm »
I have just removed them and they were gungy with dry grease I have cleaned the up ready to go back but wondering should I grease them or not as they slide in and out of the swing arm no problem but dont want to actually make them slippery because its hard enough keeping things aligned when doing the back wheel up. Maybe just a thin coat of ACF50
34
« on: 03 May 2019, 07:26:11 pm »
I read that the very best way is to measure from the swing arm but the rear axle has a hole in it which you need to find the centre of. So I came up with an idea to thread a wodden dowel through it. But one side is bigger then the other and it wouldn't work just waggling around so I took the slack up with some spacers so the dowel is held in the centre. Its the same at the swing arm as each side is a different size hole but I got around that one by sanding down the dowel at one end.Now I can pull a tape measure across which is hanging off the dowel. And I have cut the swing arm dowel flush with the frame and marked the centre with a pen. I think I will refine it further by also cutting the spindle one flush and adding a small headless nail to the centre end then use a metal ruler with a pin hole in the wide flat face to slot over my nail and then I can mark the other end on the thin edge of the ruler that lines up with the swing arm dowel pen mark. That way a stiff metal ruler is better than a bendy tape measure.
Photos
35
« on: 29 April 2019, 02:10:37 pm »
I have just learned from the FZS600 section that a 6 sided socket is less likely to round off a nut. Never knew that I will be fitting a new chain and sprocket set and I have the sizes I need but they are all 12 points So I am going to invest in a few for the rear wheel / sprocket nut/ and a 14 and 17mm. Are these Draper ones a waste of money https://www.toolstation.com/12-drive-6-point-socket/p52746. If so any recommendations of something better.
36
« on: 27 April 2019, 10:46:03 am »
Chain and sprockets are OEM and 21 years old but only done 22k miles. I have a tight spot on the chain that I have tried to free up last year but its still there and I can hear it and feel it through the peg. I have just had an mot and got the chap to look at my rear sprocket as I wanted a second opinion, he had a good look and said he does not think it needs changing but pointed out some chain wear. I know some say change sprockets at the same time but the rear at least looks fine to me. Pictures attached. Also I want to fit a continuous chain and want an x ring D.I.D but confused as to if they come as continuous. Here https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_rev/72435#itemReview_9179First one is before I cleaned the area being photographed. I will post some of the front sprocket later when I get the cover off
37
« on: 12 April 2019, 11:36:36 am »
Just been watching some utube vids of bikers being pulled over in the US as filmed via their own helmet cams and I noticed that they all used the kill switch to turn off the bike and then turn the ignition key.I never use the kill switch and always use the key - what do everyone do.I do sometimes use the kill switch after parking just as a simple extra tiny bit of security - could be just enough to confuse an opportunist. Like it has done me when I return and the bike wont start for some reason
38
« on: 06 April 2019, 11:57:54 am »
The 2019 FOC-U Bike Picture ChallengeA reiteration of the rules. 1. All challenges must be of YOUR bike and a landmark, or something obscure or creative, something most people can ride to in their area. 2. Picture has to be taken after challenge is made. 3. Challenge is good for a week; if it is not met after that time, the previous picture poster picks a new challenge. 4. Nothing illegal to be challenged. 5. Keep comments to a minimum; if you comment, post the current challenge in bold type after your comment. 6. No repeat challenges. 7. No other bikes can be used, eg, your bike next to a Ducati. Some exceptions will be allowed, eg, your bike next to a bike cop. 8. Only 1 person can win each challenge; any other entrants will not be counted, due to throwing the whole game off track and adding challenges that don't stand. 9. If any dispute about a challenge occurs, 3 oks from others settles the challenge. Remember, this thread is supposed to get people to want to go ride straight away and beat others to the challenge - be creative, but be sensible about it. Have fun Foccers!
39
« on: 22 December 2018, 10:55:51 am »
I will be re greasing my 20 year old (21k miles) speedo drive grease but which grease out of these two would be best. Also - stupid question time with the front wheel out is the balance transferred to the back or do I have to chock the front up.is it necessary to take off the brake calipers or is that just to make it easier - especially when lining up to put back.Also how much grease do I use - a smear or pack it out or in between.
40
« on: 17 December 2018, 05:33:35 pm »
A while back it was mentioned on here for looking inside a tank and I thought at the time it would be a very useful bit of kit but I did not have a use but now I do so looking for some advice as to a cheap one that can connect to a android phone.Its first job will be to inspect behind/inside a stud and plasterboard wall before I drill some new holes to fit a towel rad in-place of a normal rad.
41
« on: 25 November 2018, 01:22:57 pm »
Aldi are doing some ski wear and I was looking at the "100% Merino wool" base layers - here https://www.aldi.co.uk/c/specialbuys/dates/2018-11-25?q=%3Apopular&page=0 but not sure if £17.99 for a short / £19.99 Long sleeve top are good prices. Also wondering if it is actual Merino wool - remembering faux wagu beef at Asda or something or was it Aldi. Faux because it was not "full blown" wagu but was a mix breed.
42
« on: 18 October 2018, 01:16:04 pm »
Have done some a long time ago and just again last month in Spain on a little trip that included a bit of snorkelling and now looking to get my own mask and snorkel to take with me next time.But I don't want to waste my money on rubbish but also don't want to spend the earth on professional scuba gear.Have been looking at stuff in decathlon but it seems very cheap, so any advice from snorkelling focers
43
« on: 21 August 2018, 09:26:41 am »
Never used fiberglass before and I am hoping to try and repair a broken concrete wavy roof tile. I have glued one back together before with rem-chem resin used for fixing threaded studs in walls and then a bit extra buttered on the back reinforced with Aluminium mesh which worked well.I believe fiberglass will stick to concrete - dust free. When I am putting on extra layers of sheet do I wait until the first layer is touch dry or tacky or completely cured.I have a big boy kit from toolstation which says touch dry in 50 -70 mins but it doesn't say when it will be fully cured.Also the mix is 300:1 bit of a faff to measure that out. Can someone point me to a make that has an easier mix ratio with less risk of getting it wrong.Are there also faster curing ones. Thanks
44
« on: 21 July 2018, 12:42:38 pm »
Chain link that is.I can feel it and hear it when the chain is under a low load at about 40mph, not coasting nor can I feel it under any decent load.I am not quite ready for a new chain and sprocket set so what is my best course of action-- slacken off wheel and set to work on the misbehaving link with two pairs of pliers and some engine oil ?.I did previously tighten the chain a tiny fraction so 95% of the chain positions would just touch the guide but then there is that one tight spot with the stiff link that is a little too tight. Should I adjust the chain to that one tight area and have the rest perhaps a little too slack like all the guides actually tell you to do .
45
« on: 07 July 2018, 09:47:17 am »
Thinking of a trip up there today and will be coming up from the south M1 any recommendations or tips as to the best route. EDIT to say I went and my report is here http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,24310.0.html
46
« on: 04 June 2018, 09:56:03 pm »
So after 17 years of looking at my elbows and doing the funky chicken I decided to get some pattern R6 mirrors with the longer stem for a better view. In my view not worth the bother. Before the outside OEM dimensions across from mirror to mirror was 830mm and the R6 when on the bike were 840mm both mirrors are 140mm mirror area wide. So I gain 5mm less elbow view in each mirror. But the OEM ones are taller at 85mm and the pattern are 75mm and squarer the OEM ones are wider where you need them and taper off where you do not. Yes the pattern ones have a longer stem but that is not the whole story because the OEM ones although have a shorter stem the plastic around the mirror is elongated making up the difference. You can see this in my picture although the pattern ones are on the bike and its hard to get the OEM ones next to them but you can see on the OEM ones the elongated shape of the plastic meaning that the actual glass on the OEM shorter stem ends up in almost the same position as the pattern longer stem version. The picture is a bit misleading as it makes the pattern ones look like they stick out more but its only my 5mm each side The pattern ones sit higher maybe a person other than 5'8" tall would get on better but I do also have long arms for my height. Good points on the pattern ones is that they were an exact fit and at ALL speeds there was no vibration. So my OEM ones are back on for a slightly taller view and also I have datatag etching on the OEM glass, And also after 17 years of filtering that 10mm extra pattern width feels more like 1000mm. Remember that this review is mirrors fitted on a Boxeye
47
« on: 02 May 2018, 06:05:54 pm »
To celebrate the 20th birthday of my Fazer this week Sharp Hall is releasing a special set of commemorative photographs
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« on: 20 April 2018, 09:23:25 pm »
Just spotted this in my local lidl
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« on: 05 April 2018, 08:10:12 pm »
Need a new set but where is the cheapest place to buy, my local fitter can fit if I supply. Looked at Black Circles and oponeo so far
50
« on: 04 April 2018, 10:15:13 pm »
Been looking at a new set of Bridgestones and Michelin and keep coming across old versions of a tyre that have been replaced by the new improved version yet the old version is still being made many years after its replacement came out, why don't they properly discontinue a tyre once its replacement comes out.
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