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Messages - PieEater
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51
« on: 31 March 2022, 02:36:00 pm »
Thanks for the info & links but both of these have loads of negative feedback...anyone used them ??
Not quite sure what can go wrong with them, I suspect negative feedback is due to the usual numpties not checking they are ordering the right item / fitment or not knowing what they are doing in general.
53
« on: 25 March 2022, 10:19:27 am »
It looks like it's 50/50 on Traditional/Motobatt - bugger! Was hoping for a positive lean one way or the other If money is no object Yuasa or Varta, last time I looked Motobatt were less than half the price of those which is why I went for one, having replaced my first Motobatt after just over 3 years I'd say buy cheap buy twice as a Yuasa should easily do more than 6 years if not abused. Others will definitely disagree though so maybe toss a coin
54
« on: 12 March 2022, 12:10:40 pm »
Same here 7 years is pretty good going, Yuasa and Varta are good lead acid battery choices which should last that lifespan but are expensive to purchase. I have used Motobatt for my last 2 batteries, the first one gave up the ghost after about 3 years, I should probably have disconnected it over the winter layoffs (not a fan of maintenance charging) the second one is still going strong but is only a couple of years old, good to know from MarkYPVS that they can last 8 years if looked after.
55
« on: 09 March 2022, 09:22:54 am »
I've updated the FAQ - 9.000 RPM = Overturn Switch Fault (Note: This error code can in some cases be triggered by a faulty battery).
56
« on: 08 March 2022, 10:07:00 am »
Weird that a duff battery would trigger the 9K fault code but useful to know it can happen. Something I believe to be true unless otherwise corrected is that one or more cells can fail on a battery but as the the remaining cell(s) are still able to output 12v most chargers don't detect a problem. If this happens as well as meaning lots of clicks and buzzing but no start, the lack of available amps could I guess mean the ECU doesn't have the ability to operate properly and so throws up random stuff, but that's an electrical ignoramus hypothesising so is probably rubbish. Anyhow glad you're up and running
57
« on: 24 February 2022, 01:16:38 pm »
I'm not sure that the Gen1's have a reputation for throttle snatch, if this is an issue then you could make sure your chain is properly adjusted, because the Gen1 has a long swingarm the chain needs a bit more slack than most bikes. Another thing you could check is clutch adjustment, try adjusting at the engine end of the cable rather than the handlebar adjuster. Early Gen2's definitely had a problem with fuelling that caused throttle snatch, Gen1's fuelling is generally pretty good.
59
« on: 23 January 2022, 11:41:17 am »
Thank's for the advice, does that help because the wheelbase gets shorter or because there's more pressure on the front?
It puts more weight on the front which has the effect of quickening up the steering making the bike much more flickable and predictable through corners. I found a 25mm ride height jack-up kit and dropping the yoke down the forks gave really good results. As an experiment I tried a 50mm jack-up kit with the yoke dropped but this put too much weight on the front and made the handling worse, so I now have the 50mm kit and the yoke at the stock position which works just as well as the 25mm rise and the yoke dropped. As dropping the bike down the forks is free and doesn't take a lot of effort to do or put back to stock it's definitely worth trying just to see how you get on, don't go too far though as you may hit the mud guard under sharp braking, 10 - 15mm should be fine and make a noticeable difference to handling.
60
« on: 23 January 2022, 09:59:34 am »
I will, i hope it doesn't run so wide anymore.
Have you dropped the yoke down the forks? If not try doing that so you have about 10 - 12mm of fork leg showing above the yoke, that should also help.
61
« on: 22 January 2022, 09:39:05 pm »
Well done, you should find the bike handles much better now, let us know how you get on.
62
« on: 19 January 2022, 01:47:01 pm »
......i'll probably go for the R6 shock. It's for free and alot newer but not looking forward to search for the correct dogbones. Rather have it a bit higher in the rear than lower.
You can order dog bones by length from this site if you're not 100% certain on the length you need at £15 a set you could order a few sizes and return the ones you don't want to keep under distance selling regs (as long as they are in "as new" condition). Maybe grandmother egg sucking lesson but shorter dog bones equals more height at the rear.
63
« on: 14 January 2022, 08:55:03 pm »
Sorry for breaking in to this topic, does anyone know if a 2020 r6 rearshock will fit? And is there a motorcycle (any brand) that has 130mm dogbones original? I live near Boonstraparts in the Netherlands so if i know what make and model uses these i can pick them up when i need them.
Not OEM dogbone options but this UK store has dog bones available to order by size at £15 including VAT you may have something similar in the Netherlands or for something in the EU this German Ebay seller may be nearer and able to sort you out if you contact them.
64
« on: 02 January 2022, 09:55:58 am »
I'm making the assumption this is for a Gen1, as you don't state this. The Yamaha service manual is available to download from the Downloads section. Each leg should have 440ml of fork oil, the air gap should be 140mm measured from the top of the inner tube and damper rod, with the tube fully compressed and without the spring. K-Tech advised me that this would be the same with their springs as with the OEM.
65
« on: 29 December 2021, 11:15:43 am »
66
« on: 17 December 2021, 07:28:38 am »
Let us know how you get on. You will need to revisit your preload and damping with the new springs to get the best out of them, preload is just setting the static sag to 25-30mm, damping will be trial and error until you find what works for you, compression I'd start with 8 clicks out from fully in then go for a ride and see if it feels too firm or not firm enough and adjust accordingly. I think the stock rebound setting is 7 clicks from fully in it will be a case of riding and seeing how the forks behave under braking and in corners, making an adjustment and seeing if it gets better or worse. Sorry if you knew all that but I thought it would be worth mentioning.
67
« on: 13 December 2021, 12:48:17 pm »
If you want progressive springs then Hyperpro are what is generally recommended. I would however recommend linear springs based on your weight unless you specifically want progressive. Linear will offer a more predictable ride which I personally feel is important especially in corners and when riding at less than sedate speeds. I believe the OEM springs are dual rate so a kind of cross between the two but without the benefits of either. I have K-Tec linear springs in mine and are pretty happy with them.
Unfortunately I can't advise on R6 shocks, but maybe keep an eye out for 2nd hand Nitron shocks, they are pretty decent and can be serviced and resprung for your weight by Nitron if necessary.
68
« on: 14 October 2021, 10:17:05 am »
I also use the Avon 3DXM and am happy to recommend them I find that their profile gives great stability and confidence at all lean angles whereas the last Bridgestone's I tried seemed much happier when upright and not as confidence inspiring through the real twisties, the Avons also lasted ~10% longer than the Bridgestone's. The Caveats are that I'm so happy with the Avons I have had no reason to try any other tyre apart from the Bridgestone but that was some time ago and I don't tend to ride in the wet so can't comment on performance on wet roads. Whatever tyres you choose they are going to feel a lot better than the worn out ones
69
« on: 05 October 2021, 01:51:38 pm »
The last MOT had a single advisory classified as dangerous..."sharp objects protruding from the front fairing"
Seem to remember him having some spikes / horns sticking out the front, guess the tester wasn't a fan Edit:\ Yep you can see them in the video BBROWN posted exactly 1 minute in.
70
« on: 18 September 2021, 09:35:16 am »
Don't forget there are 2 bleed nipples on the rear calliper if you're working on one the other will need to be done up tight.
71
« on: 29 August 2021, 07:57:47 pm »
Looks very clean If you haven't already had a look at the FAQ for the Gen1 Fazer in the sickies at the top of this section I would encourage you to do so, as a new owner you should find the information useful. I would make sure the EXUP valve is present and working correctly servicing is often neglected leading to the valves becoming seized, this may or may not be the cause of your problem but is something you should investigate early on and keep on top of. The FAQ has a link that takes you to an EXUP servicing guide. I believe the stock jetting is lean at low revs and this will be made worse if you have a more free flowing aftermarket air filter so with stock jetting the OEM filter is recommended and may help your issue if you have an aftermarket 'performance' filter.
72
« on: 12 August 2021, 12:28:45 pm »
"If it aint broke" is always a good rule to live by If you're ever in Devon drop me a PM and you're welcome to try mine.
73
« on: 12 August 2021, 12:26:17 pm »
The Ivans kit is mainly a tap and appropriate bolts to screw into the spigots once they've been tapped, you shouldn't need to buy that as your mechanic should be able to tap them out for you, provide the bolts as well as source a cap for the carb. The only non standard part is the cap for the airbox, as has been said there are many options, it seems to be a standard size for the plastic caps on small spray bottles so not difficult to find. I also went with the Holeshot kit as it's simpler (I'm not good at tapping) and I think looks neater but it was expensive, took a while to get to me and didn't come with the rubber caps like the Ivan's kit does.
74
« on: 12 August 2021, 12:14:21 pm »
Very true mate, but it would do it in every gear, this chaps problem is only happening in second. I'm not saying it is the issue mate, I'm just mentioning that it would be worth checking, and it still is. There could be any number of reasons why a partial obstruction to airflow might be more noticeable or only evident in lower gears. You can't necessarily pin the throttle back in all gears, second is probably the one where you can, first will have you flipped off the bike, third will have you doing insta-ban speeds and potentially having to be more cautious of traffic and turns. The obstruction if it's on a wire / string / elastic like mine could be pulled through into the airbox whilst in second gear clearing the obstruction and then once the bike and suction stops it could be pulled back out again setting it up for the same thing to happen next time. You just don't know, so it's definitely worth checking, even if it's unlikely.
75
« on: 12 August 2021, 12:00:57 pm »
It's lower down the rev range where you will notice the benefits rather than mid range, the bike is just that bit more capable of running smoothly at low revs and pulling cleanly away. For example if you're out on fast ride and hit a 30 mph limit you can stay in top gear and accelerate back out once you're clear without downshifting. To me it makes the bike more of a capable all rounder, it's happier bimbling smoothly around country lanes at low revs with the other half on the back but if I'm out on my own and the red mist rises the bike is just as capable of getting the the adrenaline flowing.
Unless you regularly use the bike on the track or otherwise abuse it by regularly thrashing it to the red line you probably wouldn't notice any drop off in power which is at the very top end.
If you're in any doubt, an advancer is only a few quid and you could probably sell it on of you don't like it. Either way you still have a great bike so if fitting an advancer seems like too much hassle you're not hugely missing out by leaving things as they are, but given the choice I wouldn't go back to stock timing.
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