Overheating, no coolant loss

[Kenny Dave]

I've done something daft or damaged my bike after a cracked radiator. Still overheating I think, causing the oil filter to leak. If anyone fancies reading and giving me some pointers, any pointers at all, that would be much appreciated.


I've replaced a cracked radiator, and all the 25 year old rubber pipes. I currently have the aftermarket temperature gauge saying that the temp is ok at the top, but the oil filter just chucked oil everywhere, and it's acting like it's overheating down there. Seems strained with the throttle open. So I've done something daft, I am not sure what. Or damaged something somehow. Would the oil leaking from the filter do this?

These are connected correctly, right?

https://imgur.com/a/faljkvr

I haven't got coolant coming out anywhere. It's at the top when I open the fill whatsit under the tank, and the level is right where I left it in the overflow.It's doing the swirly thing looking at the coolant with the cover off, so I think that means it's circulating. The coolant has come out clean, the oil doesn't have any coolant in it.

My number 24 on this is maybe 2cm too long, so it's a bit bent. Looks like it's open though so I didn't worry about it on install. Pics on the Imgur link.  I've got it going to the top of 9 on the diagram, is this correct?

https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/yamaha-motorcycle/600-MOTO/2002/FAZER/FZS600/RADIATOR--HOSES/21_2093-2093/B7/0/24224

My plan at the moment is get the oil sealed and see how it behaves. I don't know if a leaking oil filter would make it behave like it is, but it sounds unlikely. I'm at a loss if that doesn't sort it. Busto engine somehow? Anything else to check?

Thanks if anyone can help.

*Yes I will do some painting and cleaning in there and repainting while I've the chance. It's all off now, tomorrows job is clean and paint.

[unfazed]

What brand oil filter do you have on it?
Check the oil pipe to the head and the oil cooler behind the oil filter

[Kenny Dave]

What brand oil filter do you have on it?
Check the oil pipe to the head and the oil cooler behind the oil filter

Oil filter isn't off, just loosened. Oil out tomorrow, but I assume it's a hiflo HF147, it usually is. Is the oil pipe you're talking about a really thin one attached to the front of the crank case?
Thank you.

[darrsi]

I know it sounds daft, but is there a chance the oil filter wasn't tightened up properly to begin with?
I used an oil filter chain wrench on mine last week, which are great for undoing stubborn filters, but i'm a bit weary of using them to tighten them as it feels like it might do some damage, and after i tightened it as far as it felt i could safely go i then managed to get my hand onto it to double check and it moved about another half turn, which surprised me a bit. Doesn't help matters once you have oil on your protective gloves either.


Also, you say you replaced the rad and pipes, but did you clean the whole coolant system while you were at it? If you have scaled up waterways inside the engine that would cause overheating.
If you haven't done the Radflush treatment i would recommend that too, especially as you have nice new parts on there.

[unfazed]

What brand oil filter do you have on it?
Check the oil pipe to the head and the oil cooler behind the oil filter

Oil filter isn't off, just loosened. Oil out tomorrow, but I assume it's a hiflo HF147, it usually is. Is the oil pipe you're talking about a really thin one attached to the front of the crank case?
Thank you.

Yes, and it goes to the cylinder head. main oil feed to the cams

[Kenny Dave]

Thanks, I'll give it a test and see. This is the sort of stuff I need. No one has said anything about the routing being wrong, so I think I'm alright there too.

What's confusing me is that it was fine until the rad popped, so I'd expect it being sealed to mean cooling is fine. If leaking oil would give the funny running I've mentioned, then I'm golden with resealing the oil and it's not overheating. The oil filter has been sealed for the last 3k, but front end of the bike has been absolutely sandblasted over the winter, with a commute across the M62, so it may be just that if the symptoms could be caused by it.

The coolant has come out looking like new, no corrosion, so I don't think that's a problem.

[unfazed]

I would be inclined to think it is a coincidence.
Riding in all that salt something is bound to give issues on a 20ish year old bike and the two most like items are 1. the oil pipe and 2. the oil cooler

[Kenny Dave]

I would be inclined to think it is a coincidence.
Riding in all that salt something is bound to give issues on a 20ish year old bike and the two most like items are 1. the oil pipe and 2. the oil cooler

Thank you, that is reassuring. I still haven't got it running, new issues keep appearing.

I put it back together, and it seemed ok. Ran the temperature up on the driveway, but it spluttered and stalled and wouldn't restart. Wouldn't start the next day even with easy start. Took a plug out and it's flooded. Spark ok, fuel ok but new filter coming, air filter cleaned and oiled, compression ok, plugs look ok but I'm replacing anyway. Carbs are off for a clean, but that's another thread with new problems. Which I'll make now.

[unfazed]

Replace the float valve O rings as this is the most likely cause of flooding. Would be good practice to replace the main jet  O rings at the same time. No need to change the Main Jets or Float valves as the spurious ones are not as good as the original.
These are the sizes I used
 
 Use Nitrile (Buna-N) SHA75 to 90       or         Viton® (FKM/FPM) SHA75 to 80
Nitril wokat lower temps and Viton at higher temp but wont make much  difference in Carbs. Nitrile is a bit cheaper
Sizes, I measured

Float needle valve: 7.5mm ID x 1.5mm cross section 
Main Jet: 5.5mm ID x 1.5mm cross section

 Bought all mine here https://www.polymax.co.uk/o-rings/o-ring-selector/

[Kenny Dave]

Replace the float valve O rings as this is the most likely cause of flooding. Would be good practice to replace the main jet  O rings at the same time. No need to change the Main Jets or Float valves as the spurious ones are not as good as the original.
These are the sizes I used
 
 Use Nitrile (Buna-N) SHA75 to 90       or         Viton® (FKM/FPM) SHA75 to 80
Nitril wokat lower temps and Viton at higher temp but wont make much  difference in Carbs. Nitrile is a bit cheaper
Sizes, I measured

Float needle valve: 7.5mm ID x 1.5mm cross section 
Main Jet: 5.5mm ID x 1.5mm cross section

 Bought all mine here https://www.polymax.co.uk/o-rings/o-ring-selector/

Thanks unfazed, that's great info for the future. I've completely replaced the carbs now, so I'll see how they go. They look in much better condition than the one I've taken off, and I know they've been on a shelf in the garage for a decade at least. So I'll see how they go.